fulltimin

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And this 3rd pic, is kind of a close up, and is not the best quality, but you get the idea, of how this looks.
* This post was
edited 11/27/17 08:22pm by fulltimin *
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin

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Now, here is an explanation of how this works.
The hole in the tube, is indicated by the black outer circle, with the slot in it at the top.
The green circle, would indicate the awning material itself.
The red circle, indicates a slightly smaller piece of stainless steel, aluminum, or plastic/vinyl. This piece is large enough, that when inserted from the end, cannot come out of the top slot.
The green circle/material, goes around the red round stock, and at the top of the green you can see a blue line, which indicates the 2 pieces of material being sewn together.
That sewn stitch holds the material from un-raveling, and the material can not be pulled out of the hole, unless it is slid out from the side.
Simple, and not much to it, eh?
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/awningholes4.jpg)
So, that means the extra hole/slot can be used for something else, when the awning is open. You know, like lights, or a sun screen, or something else.
Cool, huh?
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fulltimin

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Actually was able to get some work done today. Also, took some pictures. Yay!
The first one is of the framework that I removed from around the drivers door. This view is of the inside of the framework, with the very front of it in the near foreground.
The red circle is the section of steel with severe pitting.
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fulltimin

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Here you can see the difference between the severely pitted section (red circle) and the smooth area (green circle) which has no pitting.
If you want a closer look - ctrl+ - ctrl 0 to go back to normal size.
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fulltimin

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And of course, where would we be without a close up.
The shiny sections are the high spots that were hit with the grinder.
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fulltimin

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So, back to our new section, that we are building to replace the old stuff.
As you can see, the new steel is sitting on top of the old section, so that will give me a pattern to go by.
Here we have a angle to cut, which is actually quite easy.
The red arrow is the piece that needs to be cut, and the angle is in the red circle.
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fulltimin

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Anybody remember buying one of these, sometimes years ago, and never needing or using the 2 pieces on the left? Maybe throwing them in the bottom of the toolbox, never to see the light of day for years to come? The square, on the other hand receives regular use.
Yea, me neither.... Lol.
That protractor in the center is about to become our best friend.
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fulltimin

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Setting up our protractor like this, and eyeballing the angle along the side of the steel and the 12" rule.
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fulltimin

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Now we can look at the protractor. When the yellow arrow lines up with the zero line - green arrow, we know we have a 90 degree angle.
Here the red arrow points to the angle we have after setting this on the steel pieces.
You can see that we are 19 degrees off of the 90.
So, we setup the chop saw 19 degrees from the 90 center, and then cut our steel.
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fulltimin

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Now, here is what we end up with after the cut from the chop saw.
Laying the steel over top of the old piece, and this lines up almost perfectly.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverswallframework5.jpg)
How simple was that.... Cool, huh? Like I said earlier, it's not rocket science, but these things do take time to do.
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