fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, now that we've got this cut, we are all ready to weld it in place.
First, I tack the right side, (green arrow), then the left side, (yellow arrow), then on top, in the center, (red circle).
Then I go back and finish the right side, then finish the left side. At that point, I flip this over and weld the back side fully, then flip it back over and finish this side.
The reason for welding this way is this - If I just completely welded the right side with no other tack welds anywhere, the heat from welding would pull the left side away, and there would be a nice size crack between the two pieces, where the yellow arrow is.
Putting a small tack weld in several places, opposite each other, helps to minimize this effect.
Ok, now that's welded in place. Cool.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverswallframework6.jpg)
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Well, that coolness only lasted a few seconds.
Now, I know that none of you would do something boneheaded like I just did, but I welded that in place, without cutting it to length. Duh.... Lol.
So, I put my square on top of the piece I need to cut, line it up with original piece where it should be cut, and mark this side. Then I do the same on the opposite side.
Then I lay my rule on top, and connect the lines from each side and mark it.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/boneheadmove.jpg)
So, at this point, I pull this assembly off the bottom one, and cut this off with my portable Ryobi grinder with a cutoff wheel in it.
And now we are where we belong.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/boneheadmovefixed.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Moving to the top end of the frame, there is a cross piece that needs to be welded in. So, at the yellow circle, I marked and then cut the angle on that piece.
The red circle end is not yet cut to length, so I marked it from underneath, then pulled it off and cut it to length.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversfronttopframe3.jpg)
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fulltimin
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So, after cutting that piece to length, I clamped it to the original, and welded it in place, and now we have this.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversfronttopframe4.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Ever been in one of those situations, where right in the middle of a job, you need a tool, and it's just not worth going for one?
So, you look around, and use something that is readily available, instead of purchasing the correct tool.
This is one of those experiences.
For those of us, who for one reason or another, are just too lazy to bend over and search for screws that have fallen to the ground. this one's for you. Lol.
Here we have a piece of aluminum looped to a speaker.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/magnet.jpg)
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fulltimin
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And this is the business end of said speaker. Works like a champ.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/magnet2.jpg)
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oyvind
San Francisco
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Joined: 09/08/2017
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I've finally started to look into possible water damage (after having torn out almost everything but the water tank), and am pleased to say that everything is fine.
Not a single problem. At all.
![[image]](https://kinsey.no/rv/images/IMG_20171126_122330.jpg)
![[image]](https://kinsey.no/rv/images/IMG_20171126_150146.jpg)
That first one was from where the water heater was going through the wall (large horizontal seal that was, well, not sealed and directing lots of water down onto the steel.
The second one is from the exhaust vent over the refer, where I'm pretty sure they mounted the cover the wrong way, allowing rain to go straight in if coming at a slight angle.
Banking on there not being too many of these...
As mentioned previously, my particular model has curved walls, and it looks like each steel beam is actually bent to shape. I didn't really make note of the dimensions, but is 1x2", or 1x3" right?
![[image]](https://kinsey.no/rv/images/IMG_20171123_130515.jpg)
Replacing small stubs like this won't be much problem, but if I need to replace full lengths, then I'll have to get them bent.
In other news; my generator is coming along, and I now have the parts collected and software (for the Arduino) written.
It features a full control system with a state machine handling the start and stop sequences (fuel pump, starter, wait for RPM to pick up (or pause and retry), fuel shutoff solenoid and grounding of ignition, and a PID controller for adjusting the throttle to keep the desired RPM.
It also uses a PID controller to adjust the field current to the alternators so that ideal voltage is provided (bulk charging etc).
Next up is a hall effect based current sensor so that I can measure how much power is drawn from the alternators, and adjust the RPM accordingly in order to keep it at peak efficiency (though I can actually just use the output from the field PID controller for this - an output close to MAX means we're at the higher end of the current performance band).
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oyvind
San Francisco
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Looks like only one image was allowed, here's the one showing where the water heater came through:
(edit: never mind, was a different issue)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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oyvind wrote:I've finally started to look into possible water damage (after having torn out almost everything but the water tank), and am pleased to say that everything is fine.
Not a single problem. At all.
That first one was from where the water heater was going through the wall (large horizontal seal that was, well, not sealed and directing lots of water down onto the steel.
The second one is from the exhaust vent over the refer, where I'm pretty sure they mounted the cover the wrong way, allowing rain to go straight in if coming at a slight angle.
Banking on there not being too many of these...
As mentioned previously, my particular model has curved walls, and it looks like each steel beam is actually bent to shape. I didn't really make note of the dimensions, but is 1x2", or 1x3" right?
Replacing small stubs like this won't be much problem, but if I need to replace full lengths, then I'll have to get them bent.
Not a single problem. At all.
That's just wonderful.!
Banking on there not being too many of these...
Anybody want to take bets on this one?
As mentioned previously, my particular model has curved walls, and it looks like each steel beam is actually bent to shape. I didn't really make note of the dimensions, but is 1x2", or 1x3" right?
Mine are 1" x 1.5", and are laid the flat way. In other words, they make the wall 1" thick, not 1.5" thick.
I am using .083" wall thickness for my new steel.
For the most part, the worst of the damage on mine has been closer to the the bottom. For one thing, water runs downhill.
Secondly, there are additional holes near the bottom, which can also add more potential leaks.
Under, and around the water tank may be interesting, because, even without any leaks, there has been condensation from putting cold water into a warm environment. Pulling that tank, is a piece of cake.
One of my theories is, if I put it back together and seal it up like the factory did, I should be able to expect the same results.
Congrats on the generator build so far. Sounds good.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Looks like we may have a set of twins here. Maybe not identical twins, but similar looking twins. Lol.
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