fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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And here is our high tech dead bolt.
Someone probably went to the hardware store, and for a buck 2.98, bought one of these, and screwed it into place, as a dead bolt.
I can't imagine that Fleetwood would have put one of these on, when they built this rig.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/hightechdeadbolt.jpg)
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Here is a pic of the lower portion of the drivers door.
With the red circles, we have a little better close up of the screws that hold the window in place.
Below that are 2 pieces of insulation that were originally glued to the inside of the door.
As you can see, these pieces only covered the "panel" portion of the door. There was a lot of exposed steel here, that would radiate heat and cold, in and out of the rv.
As you can see, this glue did not hold well, as the panels were loose, after I pulled off the plastic inside door cover.
The glue kind of melted into the insulation, so I don't know if it was hot melt, or if it chemically melted the insulation.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/insidedriversdoor2.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Here we have a look at the inside of the steel frame that was part of the wall, and was around the drivers door.
The red arrow points to the area that the outside handle was screwed to. Basically, Fleetwood welded 2 pieces of steel to the upright, and that is what the outside handle was screwed to.
The yellow arrow points to the top of the frame, where this frame was welded to the top of the wall frame.
The green line, shows where a 3/4" thick piece of wood was nailed to the steel frame. This was at the front of the upper door frame, and this wood was in really poor shape. At least 1/2 of it was gone from water damage.
The green arrows, point to the portion of the frame that the front cap attaches to, but the cap is on the outside of this frame.
The blue circle is the big hole where the door went.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverdoorframe.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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By the way - still not done with the Por 15 paper towel, and Walmart bag test. Lol...
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magik235
Central Wisconsin
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fulltimin wrote:What have you done?
I had a couple of threads on this forum but PhotoBucket wrecked them including the one in my signature. They are worthless without pictures.
1993 Damon Challenger
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26989746.cfm
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STBRetired
I-80 and I-55
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fulltimin wrote:I don't know about you, but I never expected to get this far with this. I thought it would fail long before this.
The original paper towel only, failed at less than 2 lbs.
Any one else impressed?
So, were you intending to use this for structural support like the glued on plywood?
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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STBRetired wrote:fulltimin wrote:I don't know about you, but I never expected to get this far with this. I thought it would fail long before this.
The original paper towel only, failed at less than 2 lbs.
Any one else impressed?
So, were you intending to use this for structural support like the glued on plywood?
Ah, yea, not so much.
I am impressed with how much difference in strength it made in just the paper towel, so I figure, based on how much difference that made, Por 15 should be good with other, better materials.
I would not hesitate to use this with fiberglass cloth or mat, instead of using the cloth or mat with epoxy.
I have seen people who used cotton cloth, soaked in paint, (not Por 15), just something like RustOleum, oil based paint, and put that on the side of rigid foam insulation, or wood, for a boat though.
They call it "poor mans fiberglass", and it seems to work pretty well. Paint touch ups would be a breeze in those situations.
Not saying yet, that I am using that in place of fiberglass on this motor home either. Not time to make that decision.
I would not say it's out of the running, though. (not the paper towel).
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STBRetired
I-80 and I-55
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Was just wondering. Was going to suggest using some fabric as opposed to paper towels. Kinda like how fiberglass cloth is stronger than fiberglass mat.
It is a very good example of how a binder can add strength to a fiber substrate. Had never heard of POR 15 until I started following this thread. Now I am thinking about getting a quart to possibly help reinforce a few problem spots on a fiberglass dragster body.
Keep up the great work on your rebuild.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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STBRetired wrote:Was just wondering. Was going to suggest using some fabric as opposed to paper towels. Kinda like how fiberglass cloth is stronger than fiberglass mat.
It is a very good example of how a binder can add strength to a fiber substrate. Had never heard of POR 15 until I started following this thread. Now I am thinking about getting a quart to possibly help reinforce a few problem spots on a fiberglass dragster body.
Keep up the great work on your rebuild.
Thank you.
Like I said, since it makes that much difference with a paper towel, it will be good to use with other things more suited to structural strength.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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That is going to be all for tonight folks.
It's almost midnight, and we just got home from our son's wedding, so we are calling it a night.
I hope to be able to post some additional pics tomorrow.
Hope you are enjoying this thread.
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