STBRetired
I-80 and I-55
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Did a basement recreation room where everything, including the partition walls, sat on 3/4" tongue and groove plywood over 2" rigid insulating board. No problems at all, was rock solid and warm.
Why not put 1 1/2" foam between the steel joists and then put 1" rigid over the top instead of 2". That would give you a better R value across most of the floor and give you 1" of additional headroom inside the MH.
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Just before 6:00 am this morning.....
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/nothappy5.jpg)
It has warmed up a little. Tonight nearing 11:00 pm and we are looking at 18 degrees. Yay.
Supposed to snow a little tonight though. We'll see how the storm tracks.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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STBRetired wrote:Did a basement recreation room where everything, including the partition walls, sat on 3/4" tongue and groove plywood over 2" rigid insulating board. No problems at all, was rock solid and warm.
Why not put 1 1/2" foam between the steel joists and then put 1" rigid over the top instead of 2". That would give you a better R value across most of the floor and give you 1" of additional headroom inside the MH.
I was debating the difference between having an inch of insulation between the steel floor joists and the flooring, or 2" of insulation between the joists and the flooring.
2 inches of Polyiso would give about an R13 or so, and that should keep some of the cold from the steel from radiating through.
Thinking out loud here, I suppose .5" to 1" under the floor joists, and then another inch on top of the joists, would help cut down on the transmission of cold through the floors.
I know, I know, just go south, when it's cold. Not always an option.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Bruce Brown wrote:
As to the floor, you are correct that a dead air space is a wonderful insulator, I'm just not sure if the foam would make a very robust floor. Maybe consider adding a few wooden cross members on 24" centers to go along with it?
I know what you mean about the robust floor. However, the original floor had 1.5" between the floor joists, and was glued to the aluminum below the floor joists, and glued to the .5" plywood above the floor joists.
In non traffic areas, it was a very sturdy floor. In high traffic areas, the glue had given up the ghost, and the floor was spongy, which is what I want to not have happen again.
That's why I was asking the question.
Thanks for the replies, and if anyone else has any experience along these lines, feel free to post.
Thanks.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Heat wave tonight.......
And the good news is, we only got a dusting of snow today.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/nothappy6.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/tapeholdingfiberglass.jpg)
In case you are wondering, the tape I put on the side of the motorhome, that holds up the fiberglass, from just below the window, (red arrows), all the way to the bottom, is still holding up very well.
Even after nice weather, heavy rain, -4 degree weather, snow, and reheating, it is still holding well.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Here is a pic of the visor that was on the passenger side of the windshield.
The 2 arms, red circle, and yellow circle, are at different angles, as you can see. There is a reason for that.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/visor.jpg)
And here is the reason - each of those are fairly short, and independent of each other.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/visor2.jpg)
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fulltimin
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The arms slide into a steel tube a few inches, and fit pretty snug.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/visor3.jpg)
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fulltimin
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And of course we have the other adjustment, which allows the visor to be rotated downward.
This also is just a friction fit, even though the picture doesn't show it, there is an adjustment screw that will change the tension on the shaft, which will hold it in place.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/visor4.jpg)
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fulltimin
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One more pic of the roof of this rig.
Out of all the roof/ceiling joists, there is only one, that was welded in, in an upright position. That is the one at the end of the red arrow.
At this point, (green circle), is 1 joist installed, upright, a piece of wood, then a piece of steel laid flat, with plywood on top of that piece of steel, but not the front one, at the red arrow.
This section, is where the front cap ends, and the roof begins. I haven't looked exactly where that joint is, it could be over top of the wood, I am not sure.
Once it warms up a little, I'll find out.
All of the other joists are like the one with the yellow arrow, laid flat, with 1/2" plywood on top.
At this point, I have no idea, why they set the one in upright. Go figure.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/flatroofsteel.jpg)
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