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 > Ike Gauntlet 2017 3500s DRW 22,800# load

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ShinerBock

LVTX

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Joined: 02/22/2015

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Posted: 03/06/17 10:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4x4ord wrote:



If you don't want to drive like a "jackass teenager" why did you tamper with your truck?


Because I wanted to and it is my truck, but if you must know I custom tune or modify all of my vehicles to fit my preferences. I like a more sensitive throttle like the old cable driven throttle used to be instead of the laggy drive by wire systems of today. I like my truck to shift later in the rpms(no sooner than 1,400) in order to keep the engine from lugging instead of the it shifting too soon like most do now to conserve fuel. I like my transmission to shift quickly and firmly instead of the smooth and slow shift. I like having the ability to always keep my exhaust brake in the on or auto position instead of it turning off every time I shut off and restart the truck. I like having more power and torque in the rpms that I drive in(below 2,000) instead of the higher rpms that I usually don't. I wanted better timing for better fuel economy. There are more reasons, but it all boils down to me customizing my truck to my preferences instead of driving a generic vehicle made for everyone.

* This post was last edited 03/06/17 10:25am by ShinerBock *   View edit history


2014 Ram 2500 6.7L CTD
2016 BMW 2.0L diesel (work and back car)
2023 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 3.0L Ecodiesel

Highland Ridge Silverstar 378RBS

4x4ord

Alberta

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Posted: 03/06/17 10:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RCMAN46 wrote:



Here is possibly a major reason the GM Duramax and Allison does so well.

The Allison was designed with the Duramax and the controllers talk to each other. Also the GM engineers probably found with the Duramax and Allison combination the 3.73 gear gave the best performance for a wide variety of towing conditions including the Ike Gauntlet.

I did a spreadsheet comparison with a 4.1 vs 3.73 for the Duramax and the 3.73 would give the best results at 40 and 50 mph.

At 60mph the choice would be the 4.1.


I agree that the Duramax Allison 3.73 are a good combination for the test but so is the Powerstroke/TorqShift/4.10. And the Cummins/Aisin/4.10 .

I don't agree that the Duramax did so well. If it does any better than the outgoing Duramax the increase is negligible yet it apparently has 150 lbft more torque and 48 more horsepower....It ran virtually neck and neck with the Cummins which has 60 less ponies as well as less torque. The extra power of the Duramax really should have been enough for it get to the top of the hill at least 2 minutes ahead of the Ram.


2023 F350 SRW Platinum short box 4x4.
B&W Companion
2008 Citation Platinum XL 34.5

ib516

Canada

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Posted: 03/06/17 10:28am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the Duramax was going to perform "better" with a 4.10 axle, that's what it would have. Clearly, GM thinks a 3.73 is best as they've stuck with that since the Duramax was introduced in 2001. 3.73 is and continues to be the only axle ratio available in a 2500HD or 3500 for the past 16 years. That says something.

With Ram, they have had 3.21, 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 (4.44 and 4.88 in the C+C units) paired with the Cummins from 2001 until now.

Ford has had a similar spread. 3.31 to 4.30 with the powerstroke.


Prev: 2010 Cougar 322QBS (junk)
02 Dodge 2500 4x4 5.9L CTD 3.55
07 Dodge 3500 4x4 SRW Mega 5.9L CTD 3.73
14 Ram 2500 4x4 Crew 6.4L Hemi 4.10
06 Chevy 1500 4x4 E-Cab 3.73 5.3L
07 Dodge 1500 5.7L Hemi 3.55 / 2010 Jayco 17z
All above are sold, no longer own an RV


transferred

CA

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Posted: 03/06/17 10:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Duramax remains king of the hill but I have to say I'm shocked at how the Cummins kept up. I'm toying with the idea of ordering a new 2017 as my forever truck and it's honestly so tough- the Duramax Ally is better than ever, the Cummins I've always had a soft spot for, while the new Super Duty is stunning. I have no clue what to do- suppose there's no wrong choice, just personal preference and what I can do the best deal on.

Frames would be a a major factor for me but they're all well up to spec re weight and safety, GMs new in 2011, Dodge's in 2013 and Ford's (finally!) in 2017. Close enough that that's not going to be a factor for me.


05 Ram 3500 SRW QCSB Laramie 4x4 Cummins, 610lbs, 23k GC, 9.9k GV
(totaled) 16 Ram 3500 SRW RCLB SLT 4X4 Cummins Aisin, 900lbs, 25.3k GC, 11.5k GV
06 F550 4x4 PSD, 570lbs, 33k GC, 19.5k GV

Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Perrysburg, Ohio USA

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Posted: 03/06/17 12:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You know the funny thing is when the Ram was the slowest up a hill by seconds the other two fan clubs didn't have any problem pointing that out. Now that Ford is the slowest kid up the hill it isn't a big deal. Got to the the hypocrisy.

They all build great trucks and they all have been for a long time.

As for the GM gear ratio, speculating what a 4.1 or lower gear would do doesn't mean a thing. GM decided not to offer an optional gear ratio for their trucks and I can guarantee you there is a reason.

Dadoffourgirls any truth to the rumor that GM is parting company with Allison and going in house?

Don


2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.


RCMAN46

NorthWest

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Posted: 03/06/17 12:58pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dadoffourgirls wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

transamz9 wrote:

ShinerBock wrote:

At least 930 lb-ft? Meh... I am sitting at 950 lb-ft at the wheels in my 2014 CTD, and that is just the the light tow tune.


Do you have the Aisan transmission? I've heard that they are having trouble tuning the Aisan trucks because it is on its own controller. I've heard it shifts funny with power added?


Here is possibly a major reason the GM Duramax and Allison does so well.

The Allison was designed with the Duramax and the controllers talk to each other. Also the GM engineers probably found with the Duramax and Allison combination the 3.73 gear gave the best performance for a wide variety of towing conditions including the Ike Gauntlet.

I did a spreadsheet comparison with a 4.1 vs 3.73 for the Duramax and the 3.73 would give the best results at 40 and 50 mph.

At 60mph the choice would be the 4.1.


Are you implying that the engineers designed to the test?


No what I am implying GM designed the Allison and Duramax to work together. Ford probably did the same with their 6.7 and the 6R140.

I do not believe there was an Ike Gauntlet test back in 1998-2000 when the Allison/Duramax design was on the drawing board.

But Ram used an import that was not necessarily designed for the 6.7 Cummins.

4x4ord

Alberta

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Posted: 03/06/17 01:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ShinerBock wrote:

4x4ord wrote:



If you don't want to drive like a "jackass teenager" why did you tamper with your truck?


Because I wanted to and it is my truck, but if you must know I custom tune or modify all of my vehicles to fit my preferences. I like a more sensitive throttle like the old cable driven throttle used to be instead of the laggy drive by wire systems of today. I like my truck to shift later in the rpms(no sooner than 1,400) in order to keep the engine from lugging instead of the it shifting too soon like most do now to conserve fuel. I like my transmission to shift quickly and firmly instead of the smooth and slow shift. I like having the ability to always keep my exhaust brake in the on or auto position instead of it turning off every time I shut off and restart the truck. I like having more power and torque in the rpms that I drive in(below 2,000) instead of the higher rpms that I usually don't. I wanted better timing for better fuel economy. There are more reasons, but it all boils down to me customizing my truck to my preferences instead of driving a generic vehicle made for everyone.


I have a Kenworth that has a check engine light on...I guess it has an emissions related problem. I've wrestled with the idea of deleting it to "fix" all future emissions related problems. I think in my case it makes more sense to spend $1000 fixing it than it does to spend 5k deleting it. I just thought you might have a way of justifying the tuning idea that made sense.

ShinerBock

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Posted: 03/06/17 02:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4x4ord wrote:

ShinerBock wrote:

4x4ord wrote:



If you don't want to drive like a "jackass teenager" why did you tamper with your truck?


Because I wanted to and it is my truck, but if you must know I custom tune or modify all of my vehicles to fit my preferences. I like a more sensitive throttle like the old cable driven throttle used to be instead of the laggy drive by wire systems of today. I like my truck to shift later in the rpms(no sooner than 1,400) in order to keep the engine from lugging instead of the it shifting too soon like most do now to conserve fuel. I like my transmission to shift quickly and firmly instead of the smooth and slow shift. I like having the ability to always keep my exhaust brake in the on or auto position instead of it turning off every time I shut off and restart the truck. I like having more power and torque in the rpms that I drive in(below 2,000) instead of the higher rpms that I usually don't. I wanted better timing for better fuel economy. There are more reasons, but it all boils down to me customizing my truck to my preferences instead of driving a generic vehicle made for everyone.


I have a Kenworth that has a check engine light on...I guess it has an emissions related problem. I've wrestled with the idea of deleting it to "fix" all future emissions related problems. I think in my case it makes more sense to spend $1000 fixing it than it does to spend 5k deleting it. I just thought you might have a way of justifying the tuning idea that made sense.


You don't have to delete to do a custom tune or add power. King - SPADE - CSP4 Tuning - 2013-2016

4x4ord

Alberta

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Posted: 03/06/17 02:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In my case the main reason for custom tuning would be to rid the truck of the emission related components to prevent future problems. If deleting would be seen as adding value to the truck I might do it. The trouble is that future laws will likely require the emission equipment to be working for the truck to pass a licensing inspection. So if I spend 5k deleting I'm apt to be spending $1000 putting it back to stock and still be fixing the problems before I'd be able to sell the truck anyway.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 03/06/17 02:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

" I'm toying with the idea of ordering a new 2017 as my forever truck"

I would advise waiting til 2019, new truck same 6.7 but ALL emissions will be downstream of the engine and will no doubt blow the others away in the real world of towing.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

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