Dakzuki
Carnation, Wa, USA
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bigfootford wrote:Dakzuki wrote:I just resurrected an EU1000 that hasn't been run in 10 Years. I was astounded it ran at all but it did, albeit poorly with all the symptoms described in the thread. It also dumped so much gas into the engine it ended up in the crankcase thinning the point of disassembling the carb but I ending up doing a series of oil changes to flush the crankcase and to get her running right I used Sea Foam in the gas, and shot carb cleaner into the intake while running. Once all that was done I took the spark plug out and gave it a good cleaning. She's outside right now running in Eco mode with a 600 watt light plugged into it purring like a kitten. Once this tank of fuel runs out I'll change the oil on last time and load it with Mobil 1.
BTW, the genny cost me a bottle of good single malt and a few hours of my time (to get it running right).
That's a cheap Eu genny.....Glad it is ok after all that gas...
So did you remove the carb and clean it up or what?
You said, " It also dumped so much gas into the engine it ended up in the crankcase thinning the point of disassembling the carb"... and it does not make sense to me.
Jim
My bad. Poor editing job. It was bad enough I was ready to disassemble the carb but all he other measures got her running right before I got to that level. First sign of issues from here on out and I will do a carb tear down. The generator now has fresh gas with Sea Foam in it so hopefully any residual gunk is being dissolved. We have a dry camping trip in a few weeks and I intend to use the Honda for battery charging. I'll have the main APU in the RV for backup if needed.
2011 Itasca Navion 24J
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Dakzuki
Carnation, Wa, USA
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Dakzuki wrote:bigfootford wrote:Dakzuki wrote:I just resurrected an EU1000 that hasn't been run in 10 Years. I was astounded it ran at all but it did, albeit poorly with all the symptoms described in the thread. It also dumped so much gas into the engine it ended up in the crankcase thinning the point of disassembling the carb but I ending up doing a series of oil changes to flush the crankcase and to get her running right I used Sea Foam in the gas, and shot carb cleaner into the intake while running. Once all that was done I took the spark plug out and gave it a good cleaning. She's outside right now running in Eco mode with a 600 watt light plugged into it purring like a kitten. Once this tank of fuel runs out I'll change the oil on last time and load it with Mobil 1.
BTW, the genny cost me a bottle of good single malt and a few hours of my time (to get it running right).
That's a cheap Eu genny.....Glad it is ok after all that gas...
So did you remove the carb and clean it up or what?
You said, " It also dumped so much gas into the engine it ended up in the crankcase thinning the point of disassembling the carb"... and it does not make sense to me.
Jim
My bad. Poor editing job. It was bad enough I was ready to disassemble the carb but all he other measures got her running right before I got to that level. First sign of issues from here on out and I will do a carb tear down. The generator now has fresh gas with Sea Foam in it so hopefully any residual gunk is being dissolved. We have a dry camping trip in a few weeks and I intend to use the Honda for battery charging. I'll have the main APU in the RV for backup if needed.
Just an update on my EU1000. I ended up having to take the carb apart. The EU2000 instructions in this thread are very good when you get to the carb removal disassembly part. The only significant difference is the air intake comes off a bit more simply on the EU1000. That part is very intuitive so don't sweat it. Pay attention to the carb part and you'll be good.
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mayo30
Up here in the cold,cold north.
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jauguston wrote:Before you go to all that trouble give it a dose of Sea Foam.
Jim x2 and then some.
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Imaroadrunnr
Las Vegas
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Crap in the carburetor, reminds me of a blond joke. I have two 2000i Hondas and it has been an ongoing problem for me. When I set up dry camping, I took both of them even though I would not be using the A/C in my rig but I pulled the starter rope so many time on one of them that I tore my rotator cuff and had to have surgery. Don't overdo it! One of them would idle and hop all around and the choke would have to be on about half way. I cleaned the carbs when I got home and bought in-line filters from the Honda store and have unplugged the fuel pump and run it out of gas before I put it in storage. So far, so good but my shoulder still hurts after a year. My camping pals always volunteer to start the generators for me but that's what friends are for.
Stan
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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Joined: 03/09/2004
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I see people jerk the rope to start the engine. Some jerk it real fast several times. No need to try to warm the engine before starting. A solid firm somewhat slow pulll is all that is needed. If that does not do it, get it repaired.
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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Joined: 04/03/2007
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Reddog1 wrote:I see people jerk the rope to start the engine. Some jerk it real fast several times. No need to try to warm the engine before starting. A solid firm somewhat slow pulll is all that is needed. If that does not do it, get it repaired.
Another tip for use with any recoil pull starter: Pull the cord slowly and get a feel for the engine: it will start to build compression, making it harder to pull the rope, and then suddenly get easier to pull as it passes the point of maximum compression.
Once you get a feel for that, pull the rope slowly until you feel it building compression, but stop before you get past that point. Let the rope recoil back into the engine. Now, give it the firm pull, but not so hard that you are moving the whole unit when you hit the end of the rope. In fact, since you started at the beginning of compression, odds are you won't even have to pull it all the way to the end of the rope.
It sounds harder than it is: just slowly pull until you feel compression, let it rewind, then give the real pull. The pull can be much more effective that way.
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scootsk
Long Island, NY
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If I may add. When storing the generators pull the cord until you feel the compression stroke, that way the valve are closed. My exhaust valve became stuck after storing for a few months. I actually wrote a post in this thread a few years ago.
Don, Kathleen
2014 Ram 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Dually 6.7 CTD/AISIN
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BubbaChris
St George Utah
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I'll be dry camping soon at 10,000' elevation.
This thread was helpful in showing me what to do as I installed the high altitude jet (my genny is too new to need other help)
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scootsk
Long Island, NY
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BubbaChris wrote:I'll be dry camping soon at 10,000' elevation.
This thread was helpful in showing me what to do as I installed the high altitude jet (my genny is too new to need other help)
That's what I said when my genny failed.
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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Joined: 12/03/2002
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Here is a great set of videos on the Tube on how to completely remove/tear down/reassembly an EU1000I and EU2000I carb!
This is gold for all of us!
Part 1..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8341uTNF........s&index=19&list=UUs8pPJCJf-4oHQGptU4lHyA
Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OowN8Z-_MAU
Jim
* This post was
edited 11/01/14 12:30pm by bigfootford *
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
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