Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Part for the answer is there in the picture -- 641-3140 -- try parts interchange.

Also, 5/8-18 x 2-9/32"

Maybe Dorman 610-203 ... a bit (1/4") longer at 2-17/32" (I didn't look farther for other possibilities.)

Dorman wheel studs ... look through the full list for those dimensions.

StingrayL82 wrote:



You just skim my posts, huh?

I know the part number is in the picture....Dorman no longer makes that part number. I bought THAT box off of eBay, because it's NLA from NAPA.

I cleaned my trans cooler lines and installed them today. I haven't done much, mainly because I'm a bit burnt out. In theory, I just need to add fluids, hook up a gas can to the fuel line and start her up.

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Back-at-cha ... "You just skim my posts, huh?"

Your box said 641-3140 ... I posted 610-203. I checked, Summit lists 610-203 as available and Amazon lists the same through a number of sellers.

Dorman changed their number scheme years ago. The box you ordered has the old number scheme, probably NOS left on the shelf. (I lost my old-to-new part number list.) Part store databases didn't keep up with the changed numbers.

The link I provided is current Dorman studs, with 'new' part numbers. Look for 5/8-18 studs and check pictures for a match. (I only looked at the first page for that size ... there's probably more in the 34 webpages for wheel studs.)

610-199.1 is another possibility.

(Try to keep up ... it looks like Dorman may be changing their numbering scheme again.)


I also have a call in to the part store where I used to work. 6-7 years ago, I ordered new studs for MLP. I didn't notice 'boxes of 10' versus individual studs when I placed the order. So, we wound up with 16 boxes (160 studs) instead of 16 studs. (Oops!) The 144 studs I didn't buy may still be on the shelves and they're checking when they get the chance.

StingrayL82 wrote:

610-203 is too small at the shoulder. The only Dorman stud that fits is the one that is NLA. The guys at NAPA ordered what was supposed to be a replacement and it didn’t even come close.

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


Send me a picture of your old studs, along with dimensions. (Head diameter, diameter of hole in axle shaft/hub, stud length, etc.)

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

If you have the skills, I'd chop 'em and make tri-y headers.

RvFNG76 wrote:

How would one go about doing this or designing cant find any good info

StingrayL82 wrote:



Okie dokie, sorry for the delay, I had a lot of picture taking to do.

I used one of the new studs, which is 99.99% identical to my old studs. Notice that the tip of the stud is concave, as are my old studs. On the old studs the letter "R" is stamped, for right-hand thread...the new studs don't have that (the .01% difference). The threads are 5/8-18.

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Have you pressed out one of the old studs yet? (Use a hydraulic press ... it's just about the only way to get them out and re-install them.)

I think you may be in for a surprise ... as in the ones you bought may have too large of a knurling.

Dorman 610-213 (https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32674-610-213.aspx?origin=keyword) I have as yet to find an application listing that includes motorhomes and medium-duty trucks.

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

P.S. I hate the mid-70's rotor-behind-hub, using wheel studs, system.

Also, the way you seem to be headed is a mix of right-hand and left-hand lug bolts and nuts on a single wheel.