StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:Nothing will kill an engine quicker than sitting.
One thing will save an engine that's been in storage for a long time. Changing the oil immediately before it's put in storage, even just for over the winter.
The hydrocarbons in combustion byproducts combine with moisture and turn into acids. These acids, in the engine's oil, are what eats away at engine parts while in storage. Changing oil removes the acids from the engine.
So, before putting the vehicle in storage, change the oil and oil filter. Run the engine for 3-5 minutes to completely circulate the fresh oil.
If you think the vehicle might be in storage for several years or more, change the oil and filter a second time and run the engine again for 3-5 minutes.
The first oil change will pick up some of the acids remaining in oil passage. The second oil change will remove the little remaining acids.
Or, if you know it's going to be in storage for years, drain the oil completely and fill the engine up, all the way to the valve covers, with diesel. It has enough oil in it to keep the internals from rusting, but not enough to gum up.
A guy in my basic training bought a 1970 Pontiac GTO Judge in 1990 from his elderly neighbor. Her son, a mechanic at the Pontiac dealership in Austin, TX., bought it in September of 1969. He drove it home (7 miles). The next day he received his draft notice. He died a month after going to Viet Nam. Before he shipped out, he thoroughly prepped the car, and filling it with diesel was one of the things he did.
When my buddy brought the car out of its slumber, it fired up with no issues.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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If the side against the wheel, is flat or concave, the nuts should be securing Hub Piloted Wheels. If the darker gray in the pic is the Hub, then that tight mating line between white and gray suggests Hub Piloted. Make sure the hub and wheel surfaces are clean and rust free, and nut/stud threads clean. Then torque to spec on a criss-cross pattern. For the 1991-current year Ford E-3/450 with 9/19" studs, torque spec is 140-ft-lb. Stamped right into every nut.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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j-d wrote:If the side against the wheel, is flat or concave, the nuts should be securing Hub Piloted Wheels. If the darker gray in the pic is the Hub, then that tight mating line between white and gray suggests Hub Piloted. Make sure the hub and wheel surfaces are clean and rust free, and nut/stud threads clean. Then torque to spec on a criss-cross pattern. For the 1991-current year Ford E-3/450 with 9/19" studs, torque spec is 140-ft-lb. Stamped right into every nut.
The torque on mine, per the service manual, is 300-350lb-ft.
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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How many ft lb would you recommend for my 8 coned nuts single wheels? I tightened the nuts with 180 Nm (133 ft lb)
Dodge Sportsman from 1979
![[image]](https://img1.picload.org/image/doiogldw/rad.jpg)
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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StingrayL82 wrote:The torque on mine, per the service manual, is 300-350lb-ft.
Would you please verify that? 300 is up in the tractor-trailer range, studs an inch or so diameter. We had a single rear wheel B300 and the manual, and I know for certain I wasn't out there with the 3/4" square drive socket set. The buses our church had, ?es. The Van? No.
The low-mid 100's makes sense.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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j-d wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:The torque on mine, per the service manual, is 300-350lb-ft.
Would you please verify that? 300 is up in the tractor-trailer range, studs an inch or so diameter. We had a single rear wheel B300 and the manual, and I know for certain I wasn't out there with the 3/4" square drive socket set. The buses our church had, ?es. The Van? No.
The low-mid 100's makes sense.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/n504JKOl.jpg)
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Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
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Joined: 02/03/2003
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StingrayL82 wrote:j-d wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:The torque on mine, per the service manual, is 300-350lb-ft.
Would you please verify that? 300 is up in the tractor-trailer range, studs an inch or so diameter. We had a single rear wheel B300 and the manual, and I know for certain I wasn't out there with the 3/4" square drive socket set. The buses our church had, ?es. The Van? No.
The low-mid 100's makes sense.
Holy COW! That's a lot of foot pounds. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
What are the possibility of that being a misprint or typo?
The online chart Discount tire posted has a 1986 to 1993 D350 with dual's listed at 160 ft lbs. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/wheel-torque#dodge
* This post was
edited 06/08/18 12:07pm by Ballenxj *
Downsizing ">
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Ballenxj wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:j-d wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:The torque on mine, per the service manual, is 300-350lb-ft.
Would you please verify that? 300 is up in the tractor-trailer range, studs an inch or so diameter. We had a single rear wheel B300 and the manual, and I know for certain I wasn't out there with the 3/4" square drive socket set. The buses our church had, ?es. The Van? No.
The low-mid 100's makes sense.
Holy COW! That's a lot of foot pounds.
What are the possibility of that being a misprint or typo?
The online chart Discount tire posted has a 1986 to 1993 D350 with dual's listed at 160 ft lbs. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/wheel-torque#dodge
No, the chart StingrayL82 provided is accurate and possibly from OEM manuals. Also, what you're citing is for 'late model' (relatively speaking) 1-ton Dodge pickups. There are significant differences between axle configurations in heavier (1-ton and up) Dodge trucks.
Note the different wheel stud sizes, types of lug nuts, and single versus dual wheels in the chart StingrayL82 provided. The chart starts with 1/2 inch wheel studs and goes up to 7/8 inch. Single versus dual have differences because you're trying to clamp two layers versus one. Finally, conical nuts versus flanged nuts are different because of how they apply pressure to the wheels.
The figure you cited from discounttire.com is likely the result of a misunderstanding. The people who 'populate' websites and third-party manuals are often minimum-wage workers with little or no first-hand knowledge of the subject. I've encountered this frequently.
I encountered one example within the past year, on my 1990 Ford van. The wheel bearing preload torque specification in the Chilton's/Haynes manual I was relying on were woefully insufficient. Following that specification resulted in difficulty aligning the front end and uneven tire and brake pad/shoe wear. Worse yet, it significantly reduced braking force because only a small part of the pads were coming in contact with the rotors. (I couldn't get my hands on OEM specifications so I went 'old skool' to preload the bearings.)
Another example is from a consulting contract I picked up for overseeing the implementation of a new online store. The business owner had a thriving 'bricks-and-mortar' store and wanted to have a website as well. I had to explain to her the 'computer-savvy' person she's hired to do the computer/internet work didn't have any real knowledge on semi-precious stones, beads, and other jewelry making supplies and tools.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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OK, Thanks... Didn't want to start a conflict, but "As it is written so shall it be" seems to apply here. The Fords use 9/16" at 140 and it's kind of a flange nut. At least not conical... Might be easier to get clamping force with those Ford nuts since the washer component of the nut doesn't turn while you tighten the nut, so less torque effort lost to friction. We're actually supposed to apply a drop of oil to let that nut work free against the washer part.
And, a 5/8" fastener is a big step up from Ford's 9/16"
Even better, torque to 350 and that "average bear" isn't gonna be stealing your duals...
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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j-d wrote:OK, Thanks... Didn't want to start a conflict, but "As it is written so shall it be" seems to apply here. The Fords use 9/16" at 140 and it's kind of a flange nut. At least not conical... Might be easier to get clamping force with those Ford nuts since the washer component of the nut doesn't turn while you tighten the nut, so less torque effort lost to friction. We're actually supposed to apply a drop of oil to let that nut work free against the washer part.
And, a 5/8" fastener is a big step up from Ford's 9/16"
Even better, torque to 350 and that "average bear" isn't gonna be stealing your duals...
I understand your preference to avoid "a conflict" ... it occurs frequently in discussions involving subjects such as this.
Truly knowing what the appropriate torque specification is involves using a dial micrometer, bolt/stud stretch fixture, calibrated torque wrench, and a chart that lists all bolt/stud sizes, thread pitch, and grades. You'll also have to damage (severely weaken) several bolts to get a good average torque specification.
Bottom line is go with what you feel you can trust and watch for issues.
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