DRTDEVL
SPAM Town, USA
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Joined: 04/23/2014
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Another item to consider for the accuracy would be the TSB I posted. It also specifies 300-350 lb-ft of torque.
Resurrecting an inherited 1980 Minnie Winnie 20RG from the dead after sitting since 1998..
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Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
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Joined: 02/03/2003
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DRTDEVL wrote:
Another item to consider for the accuracy would be the TSB I posted. It also specifies 300-350 lb-ft of torque.
Reminds me of a bumper sticker I once saw on an eighteen wheeler that read; "My lug nuts require more torque than your Honda can generate." ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
Downsizing ">
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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My RM300 requires the 300-350 lb-ft as well.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Joined: 06/27/2017
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Yes, that picture I posted is from the 1976 Mopar Service Manual.
I am beyond wiped out. I spent the afternoon working on the Monaco. I picked up my heater core from the radiator shop, and it's as good as new. When I got home, I got to work and started by putting the heater box back together. My new $125 Stant heater valve works great, much better than the old, rusty valve.
I then installed my new Power Steering pump and mounted the pulley, pressure hose & return hose and all went together with no issues. My radiator guy was nice enough to lend me his Cornwall metal hole saw kit, so I cut a 1" hole in my '79 Wagoneer air cleaner and relocated the breather to the correct side.
Finally, I received my new doghouse seal, so I removed the old, crusty seal, hit the metal with some acetone, and I installed the new seal. What a difference.
I'm so tired I just nodded off for a bit, while typing. Time for bed.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Another long day. This time it was tracking down the gremlin causing my horns not to work. When I bought the Monaco, it had cheapo air horns, and it was one of the first things I took off. After reconnecting the original Sparton horns, they didn't work, which prompted me to buy another set. I took the steering wheel off, looked at my NOS turn signal harness and assessed that it was in order, so I used some BarKeeper's Friend cleaned the copper contact ring, and reinstalled.
Then I went to the hood and inspected the wiring. One thing I didn't catch, when I was refurbishing the harness, was that one of the female spade connectors was missing part of the metal, so I wasn't making a connection. A quick replacement and my horns are nice and loud now, just like in 1975.
I also received my new door seals from Metro today, so I took the old crusty seals off, cleaned the doors and installed the new seals....HUGE difference, much more positive feel to the doors, when I close them, so now between the doors and the doghouse, the cab is sealed up once again.
The final thing for today was taking the heater fan out of the heater box, removing the squirrel cage, cleaning it and then oiling the motor shaft....no more squeak! Aerokroil is wonderful stuff, when it comes to making squeaky things quiet.
So now all the engine needs is the proper fuel line from the Thermo-Quad to the pump, which I finally found today on Classic Industries' website....the correct line I need they have listed as being for a '72 Dart with the 340. I want a one-piece, but I keep seeing two-piece lines; my filter is on the frame...a lot of the '70's Mopar fuel filters were vertical on the engine, next to the water pump, and they're a B!TCH to replace.
My final thought for the day is that I'm going to try, futile as it might be, to run the Monaco without an electric fuel pump, and see how it does. The existing electric pump leaks like a sieve and was welded to the frame, which really irritates me.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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StingrayL82 wrote:Then I went to the hood and inspected the wiring. One thing I didn't catch, when I was refurbishing the harness, was that one of the female spade connectors was missing part of the metal, so I wasn't making a connection. A quick replacement and my horns are nice and loud now, just like in 1975.
My final thought for the day is that I'm going to try, futile as it might be, to run the Monaco without an electric fuel pump, and see how it does. The existing electric pump leaks like a sieve and was welded to the frame, which really irritates me.
Yup, it's usually the little, overlooked things that create a 'maybe gate' in wiring.
Electric fuel pump ... welded to the frame? OMG, I imagine you have a new entry on your "things to discuss with previous owners" list.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:Yup, it's usually the little, overlooked things that create a 'maybe gate' in wiring.
Electric fuel pump ... welded to the frame? OMG, I imagine you have a new entry on your "things to discuss with previous owners" list.
He's dead, so I'm going to poop on his grave.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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So today I've been under the Monaco, cleaning up the fuel lines. The first thing I did was to grind the welded fuel pump on the frame. Once it was off, I primed and painted the area. I then cut all of the hard rubber lines and took them off. Working my way to the rear, I took the fuel filler surround off.
The plastic bezel was completely cracked apart and had been rigged by the original owner with some aluminum, to keep it together, so it's getting filed under "T". I found an exact replacement from Sierra Engineering...thankfully, Fireball RV used a lot of the same parts, and this new one is made of fiberglass.
Working my way back forward, I took the fuel filter off....it's the original Mopar filter, installed at the Warren Plant. The date code is "0925", Tuesday April 2nd, 1975.
This is where I get really mad at the original owner. Instead of performing routine maintenance on his rig, he neglected the heck out of it, and then added an electric fuel pump, to force fuel through. It's no wonder the engine and every other item on this motorhome was kaput.
So, on to putting everything back the way it was, when it left the Monaco factory in August of 1975. The ARP torque converter bolts just arrived, as I was typing, so those will get installed, and then I can reinstall the starter.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Joined: 09/04/2003
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Proud of you! I'm trying to avoid crawling crouching projects, yet trying to do those I can't avoid as soon as I can. While I still can...
Starters... Between me and a friend who ran delivery service with Dodge, usually could make up starters and alternators. But luck and parts ran out so I got a major brand reman. And another and another. Problem with remans - There'll probably be a whole run of them before a defect is caught. One shipment to one warehouse can be all defects.Took about 4 to get a keeper. we
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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eyeteeth
SW Michigan
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Joined: 09/26/2006
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Been real busy... don't get back here much currently... Do you still need pics? information? I can possibly help once we get the old girl back home.
DRTDEVL wrote:Here's a quick question... Anyone have a 79+ Chassis? The A/C setup is different in the 79 and later chassis than the older ones. My grandfather did not believe in AC, and only used the Winnie on the Pacific Coast. He removed everything under the hood, and nobody was able to locate it after his passing. I know it was a single-row pulley set and would have used a model RV2 compressor, but I need to see where everything hooks up... the evaporator is separate from the heater system (directly behind the center of the dash) with different ducts and a separate fan control on the same bezel as the heat/defrost. I have no idea where to source the manifold lines, where to mount the receiver/drier, if its an orifice tube or expansion valve system (but I can disassemble the dash to find that out), or the bracketry to mount anything... but I am pretty resourceful with retrofitting similar parts from junk vehicles. I can adapt just about any condenser based upon the fitting sizes, the space available, and the ability to put the largest possible condenser in the space (need more cooling on R134a than on R12).
Anyone have one and some pics of how everything is routed and mounted?
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![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
