Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?


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j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 05/30/18 04:26pm

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...when we left j-d, he was firmly attached by the left thumb to the rear frame of a Dodge window van. Fortunately, our hero regained his composure after recovering from the "impact" of several dozen foot-pounds of torque on that thumb, and was able to snare the socket with a loop of air hose. Putting the tool in reverse, he was able to free himself. Inspecting the thumb and seeing it was about 1/4" thick (about half its normal thickness) he sat with it above his head till the shop owner returned. Office unlocked, j-d dumped a tray of ice cubes into a shop towel and chilled the thumb 30 mics or so. Never even turned red, let along black and blue or lose the nail. A true DIY Super Hero, j-d was overtorqued but did not break!

And, our home A/C is now relocated so it doesn't keep us up at night rattling the bedroom wall. A good day!

A Corona, now a Nap. Chau, Y'all.

If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/30/18 04:43pm

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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

StingrayL82 wrote:

I'm trying to get motivated to do something today, but being bent over all day takes its toll.

In the meantime, I took a look at the power steering pump yesterday. The pulley is frozen solid to the pump shaft, and there was no getting it off, so the hunt is on for a new pulley.

Put the old pump, with pulley, in the freezer for a hour, then use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the pulley. (Don't use a torch, not even a propane torch.)

If need be, while warming the pulley, use an inverted spray can of compressed air to re-cool the shaft. (The type of compressed air used to clean keyboards.)

I think it's called differential expansion ...

It was the first thing I did, when the pulley puller wouldn't budge it. I even sprayed it with Kroil, after heating the pulley; it wicked down, but it's still frozen solid.

Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 05/30/18 05:43pm

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What are you using as a puller tool?
I have a Snap-On power steering pulley puller. Somehow that doesn't read right on screen, but the thing works. [image]

Pic is the Remove/Install Kit from another brand. All I have is the Remove part, the two dies on the upper right, then the jackscrew to the left of those, and the band below that holds it together. Have used on Ford, GM, and also some Alternator bearings. Never failed.
Jaw puller like this ain't gonna do it.
[image]

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/30/18 09:08pm

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j-d wrote:

What are you using as a puller tool?
I have a Snap-On power steering pulley puller. Somehow that doesn't read right on screen, but the thing works. [image]

The bottom picture is the one I have, Vato Zone special. It clamps down on the pulley with no problem, the SOB is just 43 years old and stuck.

I spent the day with my Owner's Manual, green Frog Tape and a pen, studying the wiring diagram and labeling every wire, so I don't have to guess, when everything is going back together.

The one thing that's not going back on is the EGR Delay Switch, since I removed the EGR.

Once I had everything labeled, I reinstalled the harnesses. Then I went to my parts shelf, grabbed my horns and tested them. The LO horn works fine, but the HI doesn't. I drilled the rivets out and opened it up and it was a rusted mess. I attempted to clean it up but it didn't fix the issue; it's DOA.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get to the transmission and driveshafts. Here's the pics.

[image]

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Posted: 05/30/18 09:44pm

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See if another store will loan you the puller like I pictured. I think a lot of your pulling force is going into springing the puller arms. The type I showed you builds pretty much a block of steel around the pulling nub on the pressed-fit pulley.
I bought it back when stores didn't loan and there was a tool pawn shop in the 'hood. Nowadays there's little reason to own.
You've got that compartment CLEAN! I remember that flat voltage regulator, the MoPar ignition module, think I see the Isolation Solenoid, wiper motor and oh, that transverse master cylinder. Our B300 didn't have factory air, and I installed a Clardy brand aftermarket unit. Cutting a huge hole in the dashboard of a brand new van was very unnerving. The A/C itself worked well, but used the two-cyl York compressor. GM was running an axial called A-6 but nobody else was. MoPar had that Harley-looking V-twin. I like Nippondenso axials.

* This post was edited 05/31/18 12:27am by j-d *

RvFNG76

Michigan

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Posted: 05/31/18 05:51pm

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Ok so kinda scratching my head and wondering why but PO removed the charcoal canister from my rig and blocked off the vent in the tank niw everything ive been able to find has to do with a bodies but this is bad. Ive been kinda curious as to why after driving 5 miles shutting it off going into the store or gas station then trying to restart it is a bear. Could this be the problem of so anybody got any ideas on the fuel line diagram. I really need to buy a shop manual. Is any manuals for that matter.

RvFNG76

Michigan

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Posted: 05/31/18 05:53pm

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Nice looking rig Stingray

Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 05/31/18 06:05pm

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RvFNG76 wrote:

Sounds like vapor lock.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A