RvFNG76
Michigan
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Ok sounds easy what about no charcoal canister? No big deal im guessing. Another question where can i find a NOS or used speedometer i pulled mine out to see why it was sticking after replacing the cable ( huge spot wore right to the braided cable) and turns out the plastic gears have done what plastic does after 389k miles
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Fuel regulator or no what psi
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Leeann
Maryland
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:RvFNG76 wrote:Yay go me lol now how do i fix it
Install an electric fuel pump close to the fuel tank, instead of the sucky engine mounted pump.
'Push' is easier and more reliable than 'pull.'
This. And yes, a fuel pressure regulator mounted up by the engine.
That’s what we did.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Any particular brand or good places to look
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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RvFNG76 wrote:Ok sounds easy what about no charcoal canister? No big deal im guessing. Another question where can i find a NOS or used speedometer i pulled mine out to see why it was sticking after replacing the cable ( huge spot wore right to the braided cable) and turns out the plastic gears have done what plastic does after 389k miles
Three largely separate issues here.
1. Vapor lock. Occurs during higher outdoor temperatures (over 75 degrees F) in older vehicles. Add the heat from engine and exhaust and the gasoline turns to vapor in fuel line. Engine-driven fuel pump can pull liquid gasoline fine but the vapor bubble just expands. So pump can't draw fuel due to vapor bubble.
As temperature drops, vapor bubble turns back into liquid and pump can draw fuel again. Usually takes a half hour or more. So the problem shows up during quick restarts. In-tank electric fuel pumps eliminated this problem by pushing the fuel to the engine.
(This used to be a handy excuse for men to explain to wives/girlfriend why they were late.)
As far as I know, only one company makes aftermarket electric fuel pumps, in several pressure ratings. In this case, more is not necessarily better. So, a fuel pressure regulator is a good idea.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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2. Charcoal canister is an EPA smog remedy. Charcoal canister absorbs gasoline fumes from fuel tank rather than venting the fumes to the atmosphere.
In turn, when you start the engine, the fumes are drawn from the canister into the intake stream, burning the fumes during combustion.
Missing charcoal canister is only a problem if you have to pass smog inspection. Otherwise, a missing canister won't affect engine performance, unless it wasn't removed properly.
Replacement canisters are available but most parts stores don't stock them. So, they'll have to order one for you. (There shouldn't be any charge for ordering one.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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3. The plastic gears in speedometers disintegrate due to age and heat rather than miles.
There is at least one company on the internet that rebuilds/restores old speedometers. This includes new gears. (I don't have the link handy ... google should turn it up.)
I have spare speedometers but it'll be at least a year before I have time to find and check one out for you.
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Thanks griff this is why i love this forum. I always search before asking and 9 times out of 10 i find my answer
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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RvFNG76 wrote:Any particular brand or good places to look
Most better parts stores have the aftermarket electric fuel pumps in stock. They may also have regulators in stock.
You may need to find a counter person who knows what they're doing, instead of just relying on computer to tell them what to do.
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Leeann
Maryland
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Got our fuel pumps from the local LAPS. I think I bought the regulator online, but I cannot remember now. It’s adjustable and, I think, a Holley. Maybe a Carter.
Here’s our setup, with one pump and the regulator hiding behind the hoses. We have three tanks, an electric pump at each tank, switches on the dash to select from which pump to feed (and you cannot accidentally choose more than one). Each hose goes into a three-way air hose chuck, then the single output (since we use it backwards) goes to the regulator, then to the carb. We did re-route our fuel line to get most of it out of the engine compartment and into cooler air.
![[image]](https://s20.postimg.cc/tu46ggisd/4_D174_A3_D-5_CC6-4_DD1-_AC79-374_E43_DACF2_F.jpg)
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