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 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Posted: 05/29/18 11:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So I forgot to mention that mine has a 360 two barrel in it. The previous owner put new points in it and rebuilt the carb to get it running. I can change it back, or leave it as is according to my friend.

So far all I know is that there is an exhaust leak. One of the manifolds is cracked. I haven't decide whether I'm a going to replace it or not. I might take it to the local welding shop and see what they want to repair it as opposed to replacing it. Welding is not currently in my skill set.



I said I'd post pictures of what was wring with the door when I got to the PC. So here they are.

The original door. The bottom white portion was a separate piece of metal. Someone has cut off the bottom of the piece and riveted that to it. But water was running inside the door right there. And at the window and the lock.
[image]

This is what was left of the door.
[image]

And finally, the new door I made for it. Before the problem with the window became apparent.
[image]

I bought a new frame for the glass. But I also want to take the door apart and block in the window a bit better and change the way I insulated it. It works for now though. The cover for the generator is inside, its need a little love. I've covered the opening with plastic to keep the birds and rats out.

I also dug up some pictures on the inside, basically as I received it.

Looking towards the cab. That's a toy/airsoft rifle, btw. It was there when I got it.
[image]

Looking towards the back.
[image]

Other side.
[image]

Sink Close-up.
[image]

I don't seem to have any pictures of the head or the bunks in the back. They have some junk in them right now like an old TV and VCR and stuff. Like I said, the inside needs cleaned. The bathroom is pretty nasty, as is the carpet and stuff. Lots to do. Just been too busy lately.



I looked up the VIN and it seems to be built on the MB400 (1 1/2 Ton) Chassis. I haven't had any luck locating a service manual. Anyone know where I can find one?

Looks like the manuals for everything else is in the dinette, like the generator, etc. Haven't read through them all yet. Not sure if anything has been upgraded or changed by previous owners other than what I've previously mentioned.

Anybody have an order of operations for fixing these guys up? A method to the madness, if you will. Or doesn't it matter?

Sorry for the really long post. Thanks guys.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/29/18 11:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BitsPerSecond wrote:

So I forgot to mention that mine has a 360 two barrel in it. The previous owner put new points in it and rebuilt the carb to get it running. I can change it back, or leave it as is according to my friend.

So far all I know is that there is an exhaust leak. One of the manifolds is cracked. I haven't decide whether I'm a going to replace it or not. I might take it to the local welding shop and see what they want to repair it as opposed to replacing it. Welding is not currently in my skill set....

I looked up the VIN and it seems to be built on the MB400 (1 1/2 Ton) Chassis. I haven't had any luck locating a service manual. Anyone know where I can find one?

Looks like the manuals for everything else is in the dinette, like the generator, etc. Haven't read through them all yet. Not sure if anything has been upgraded or changed by previous owners other than what I've previously mentioned.

Anybody have an order of operations for fixing these guys up? A method to the madness, if you will. Or doesn't it matter?

Sorry for the really long post. Thanks guys.


As with every other project I've ever done, I just tore into it and went balls to the wall. With the mechanical, I took almost everything out. Mine had the Holley 2245 2BBL carburetor, but when I had the engine rebuilt, I converted to a ThermoQuad 4BBL.

Your rig should not have points, it should have Electronic Ignition. If your buddy changed it over to points, I'd ask him why. This could turn into a hornet's nest, as I found out with my wiring harness today.

Manuals....the factory Mopar Service Manuals I have for 1975 and 1976 do include the MB400, so check eBay, that's where I bought mine, and don't cheap out and get the Haynes or Chilton manuals, they just aren't as detailed as Mopar's.

You have your work cut out, but if you persevere and pace yourself, understanding that your rig won't be done tomorrow, you'll have fun. Wanting to have mine done yesterday has always been my weakness.

Good luck.


Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Posted: 05/30/18 12:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:

BitsPerSecond wrote:

So I forgot to mention that mine has a 360 two barrel in it. The previous owner put new points in it and rebuilt the carb to get it running. I can change it back, or leave it as is according to my friend.

So far all I know is that there is an exhaust leak. One of the manifolds is cracked. I haven't decide whether I'm a going to replace it or not. I might take it to the local welding shop and see what they want to repair it as opposed to replacing it. Welding is not currently in my skill set....

I looked up the VIN and it seems to be built on the MB400 (1 1/2 Ton) Chassis. I haven't had any luck locating a service manual. Anyone know where I can find one?

Looks like the manuals for everything else is in the dinette, like the generator, etc. Haven't read through them all yet. Not sure if anything has been upgraded or changed by previous owners other than what I've previously mentioned.

Anybody have an order of operations for fixing these guys up? A method to the madness, if you will. Or doesn't it matter?

Sorry for the really long post. Thanks guys.


As with every other project I've ever done, I just tore into it and went balls to the wall. With the mechanical, I took almost everything out. Mine had the Holley 2245 2BBL carburetor, but when I had the engine rebuilt, I converted to a ThermoQuad 4BBL.

Your rig should not have points, it should have Electronic Ignition. If your buddy changed it over to points, I'd ask him why. This could turn into a hornet's nest, as I found out with my wiring harness today.

Manuals....the factory Mopar Service Manuals I have for 1975 and 1976 do include the MB400, so check eBay, that's where I bought mine, and don't cheap out and get the Haynes or Chilton manuals, they just aren't as detailed as Mopar's.

You have your work cut out, but if you persevere and pace yourself, understanding that your rig won't be done tomorrow, you'll have fun. Wanting to have mine done yesterday has always been my weakness.

Good luck.

I'm with StingrayL82 regarding points ... but I'd shoot first and ask whatever's left, "WHY????!!!!!"

Don't apologize for long posts ... some of us (ahem, me) are long-winded.

I might be wrong but I believe welding cast manifolds are difficult. Used exhaust manifolds are available and new re-pops are also available.

It looks like you did a good job on the door, especially if it's your first effort. (Ask my wife ... I'm never, ever, fully satisfied with many of my efforts.)


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A


BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Joined: 05/27/2018

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Posted: 05/30/18 12:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:

As with every other project I've ever done, I just tore into it and went balls to the wall. With the mechanical, I took almost everything out. Mine had the Holley 2245 2BBL carburetor, but when I had the engine rebuilt, I converted to a ThermoQuad 4BBL.

Your rig should not have points, it should have Electronic Ignition. If your buddy changed it over to points, I'd ask him why. This could turn into a hornet's nest, as I found out with my wiring harness today.

Manuals....the factory Mopar Service Manuals I have for 1975 and 1976 do include the MB400, so check eBay, that's where I bought mine, and don't cheap out and get the Haynes or Chilton manuals, they just aren't as detailed as Mopar's.

You have your work cut out, but if you persevere and pace yourself, understanding that your rig won't be done tomorrow, you'll have fun. Wanting to have mine done yesterday has always been my weakness.

Good luck.


I understand it came with the electronic ignition and the previous owner swapped in points because there was an issue. He told me me why, but I don't remember. Like I said, engines are all new to me. My mechanic friend said he knows how to fix it (and it wasn't a big deal) if/when we put the electronic ignition back. I guess the previous owner didn't know how to troubleshoot it and just stuck with what he knew. For now it runs, so its gonna stay that way a while, but I'll be changing it eventually.

I'll check ebay again. I think I was looking for the wrong year. Thanks, I was considering the Chilton. I'll look for the MOPAR.

Getting over-excited is always a problem for me on projects. I can think of a million 'oh hey what if I did this' and spend entirely too long planning out how it could be done. I'm thinking for this I'm just gonna start by getting everything in semi-working order. So I can start taking it on some short trips up the mountain, hopefully by fall but the schedule is kind of dictated by cash flow right now being back in school doesn't help with that.

Thank you for the help!

EDIT: Is this the book I want? Link

* This post was edited 05/30/18 01:08am by BitsPerSecond *

BitsPerSecond

Tricities, TN

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Posted: 05/30/18 12:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


I'm with StingrayL82 regarding points ... but I'd shoot first and ask whatever's left, "WHY????!!!!!"

Don't apologize for long posts ... some of us (ahem, me) are long-winded.

I might be wrong but I believe welding cast manifolds are difficult. Used exhaust manifolds are available and new re-pops are also available.

It looks like you did a good job on the door, especially if it's your first effort. (Ask my wife ... I'm never, ever, fully satisfied with many of my efforts.)


Thanks. I might be completely useless with engines, but I'm pretty handy with tools. Although next time I will route the fiberglass outside. But it was hot and I was lazy.

As for points, see my answer to StingrayL82.

Thanks for the input. I was told welding a manifold was straightforward, but I haven't talked to the welding shop yet. The manifold isn't going anywhere anytime soon (because that require work). I'll look into a serviceable replacement and weigh my options.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/30/18 02:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BitsPerSecond wrote:

...

EDIT: Is this the book I want? Link


Yep, that’s the one. BTW, Griff is right, cast iron is a royal you know what to weld. In order to do it successfully, the part has to be preheated, then the rod you use has to have a high nickel content. Finally, when you’re done, you have to put a welding blanket on it, so it cools slowly.

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

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Joined: 09/04/2003

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Posted: 05/30/18 03:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That Manual just catapulted me over four decades back in time! I don't think you'll find one for the Cube Van chassis with DRW. Van L--0^0--KS more like our 71 than our 71 did. Ours was a 12-pass window van and it had the Bronze and White paint. Friend had a 74 15-pass that was simply worn out. Had a mechanic go over it and it needed Everything, decided to junk it. I got lots of little stuff. The chrome bumpers, the grille in that picture, the trailer hitch... Maybe exhaust manifolds. Swapped it all over at an A/C shop - JarTran rental lot he had in a less-than-desirable part of Tampa FL.
Went pretty well till the Hitch Part, but first this entertaining interlude... Friend goes out on an errand. I'm removing the hitch and my friend is away running errands. Impact wrench won't get the famous Last Bolt out because the Nut is hidden in the Frame and spinning. So j-d pulls the hitch down to put the Nut in a bind hoping to back the Bolt out. Didn't notice the Directional Button on the air impact got bumped, from Reverse to FORWARD. Pulls down hard, gooses the Impact, finds self fastened to Bottom of Van by Left Thumb. This resulted in a total loss of concentration, dropping the Impact, Socket coming OFF and rolling out of j-d's now very limited reaching range... attached to that Van and all...
Oh, the Ignition went Electronic almost right away. There might have been a 70.5 Dodge Van with the motor moved forward from the old butt-head ones, ours was a true 71, and by 72 possibly 73 the B300 got front disk brakes (that I got off a junk 73) and the Ignition was Electronic with that PentaStar Five Terminal Module Connector. Get you an Electronic Distributor, but I recommend a Delco Ignition Module MOD, just replace the MoPar with the common in-distributor Delco module and call it Good. No, not Good...Better. Unless you're doing a full Numbers-Matching Restoration of course. Same odds as digging up a complete T-Rex.
Oh, our 71 had the 318. With homemade camper conversion inside, weighed nearly 5000. Towed boat weighing 4000. Passing school buses down in South FL, I found we were on the wrong side of the two-lane for a MILE to pass with the 318. The 360 solved that problem. That's when I learned about crossmembers, torque converters and so on. For now, 318 pulls about like a slant six. 360 doesn't sound impressive like 440 but it will get you "out of the hole" and I think you'll be pleased.
Gotta bounce. Up early to get ready for contractor to come do major A/C work. Later...


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/30/18 08:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

j-d wrote:

That Manual just catapulted me over four decades back in time! I don't think you'll find one for the Cube Van chassis with DRW. Van L--0^0--KS more like our 71 than our 71 did. Ours was a 12-pass window van and it had the Bronze and White paint. Friend had a 74 15-pass that was simply worn out. Had a mechanic go over it and it needed Everything, decided to junk it. I got lots of little stuff. The chrome bumpers, the grille in that picture, the trailer hitch... Maybe exhaust manifolds. Swapped it all over at an A/C shop - JarTran rental lot he had in a less-than-desirable part of Tampa FL.
Went pretty well till the Hitch Part, but first this entertaining interlude... Friend goes out on an errand. I'm removing the hitch and my friend is away running errands. Impact wrench won't get the famous Last Bolt out because the Nut is hidden in the Frame and spinning. So j-d pulls the hitch down to put the Nut in a bind hoping to back the Bolt out. Didn't notice the Directional Button on the air impact got bumped, from Reverse to FORWARD. Pulls down hard, gooses the Impact, finds self fastened to Bottom of Van by Left Thumb. This resulted in a total loss of concentration, dropping the Impact, Socket coming OFF and rolling out of j-d's now very limited reaching range... attached to that Van and all...
Oh, the Ignition went Electronic almost right away. There might have been a 70.5 Dodge Van with the motor moved forward from the old butt-head ones, ours was a true 71, and by 72 possibly 73 the B300 got front disk brakes (that I got off a junk 73) and the Ignition was Electronic with that PentaStar Five Terminal Module Connector. Get you an Electronic Distributor, but I recommend a Delco Ignition Module MOD, just replace the MoPar with the common in-distributor Delco module and call it Good. No, not Good...Better. Unless you're doing a full Numbers-Matching Restoration of course. Same odds as digging up a complete T-Rex.
Oh, our 71 had the 318. With homemade camper conversion inside, weighed nearly 5000. Towed boat weighing 4000. Passing school buses down in South FL, I found we were on the wrong side of the two-lane for a MILE to pass with the 318. The 360 solved that problem. That's when I learned about crossmembers, torque converters and so on. For now, 318 pulls about like a slant six. 360 doesn't sound impressive like 440 but it will get you "out of the hole" and I think you'll be pleased.
Gotta bounce. Up early to get ready for contractor to come do major A/C work. Later...


Thanks for the morning laugh, best thing in the world.

The Mopar Manual does include all the van models, including the chassis cabs.

I laid the wiring harness out in my den and took pics. I'm tickled pink that it turned out so well. It's giving me flashbacks to when I did the harness on my AMC/Jeep CJ-5.

Griff, I know you're not crazy about ammeters, but I don't want to add anything to this rig that it did not have. I took out a quite a bit of extraneous wiring that was in terrible shape and connected to nothing. I have this weird idea that if you keep everything original, you won't have issues, so time will tell.

Here are pics of the 1976 Manual, as well as the wiring harness. The two cut white wires in the 3rd pic, that are in a "V" shape, are the door jamb switch wires. It was easier to cut them, in order to take the harness out. They will, of course, be soldered and heat shrunk, when I put it back in.

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

* This post was edited 05/30/18 09:35am by StingrayL82 *

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 05/30/18 08:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm trying to get motivated to do something today, but being bent over all day takes its toll.

In the meantime, I took a look at the power steering pump yesterday. The pulley is frozen solid to the pump shaft, and there was no getting it off, so the hunt is on for a new pulley.

* This post was last edited 05/30/18 09:38am by StingrayL82 *   View edit history

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

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Posted: 05/30/18 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:

I'm trying to get motivated to do something today, but being bent over all day takes its toll.

In the meantime, I took a look at the power steering pump yesterday. The pulley is frozen solid to the pump shaft, and there was no getting it off, so the hunt is on for a new pulley.

Put the old pump, with pulley, in the freezer for a hour, then use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the pulley. (Don't use a torch, not even a propane torch.)

If need be, while warming the pulley, use an inverted spray can of compressed air to re-cool the shaft. (The type of compressed air used to clean keyboards.)

I think it's called differential expansion ...

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