StingrayL82 wrote:

What a long weekend. I picked up the engine from my engine builder yesterday.

Ballenxj wrote:

When it comes to automotive, there isn't much that looks as good as a new engine. "And" a clear path for installation.
Now the anticipation builds...

StingrayL82 wrote:


LoadFlite and driveshafts are going in today, hopefully. After inspecting the wiring, it’s obvious it needs to be “unboogered”....I’ll take a picture and show you what I mean. I’m amazed the rig didn’t catch fire.

I’m also going to service the Dana 70. My inclination is to run 75W140, it’s what the Dodge dealership used to put in the Dana 70 of my ‘01 Ram 3500...thoughts?

Ballenxj wrote:

While you're inspecting the wiring, look and see what/if you have for chassis to engine ground. If I recall correctly, Chrysler was remiss about that in those years. If there isn't one, you might consider putting one in while it's easy, just to insure a good solid ground. I've read reports of people doing that on the older Dodges and suddenly electrical components that hadn't been working started working again.

Ballenxj wrote:

About the gear lube, I'm no expert on that, but I do know that when Idaho Drive Train installed an Eaton Tru-Trak in my Dodge van they used synthetic. I then asked them if any further maintenance was required, and they said nope, just drive it. Might be worth looking in to?

Ballenxj wrote:

While you're inspecting the wiring, look and see what/if you have for chassis to engine ground. If I recall correctly, Chrysler was remiss about that in those years. If there isn't one, you might consider putting one in while it's easy, just to insure a good solid ground. I've read reports of people doing that on the older Dodges and suddenly electrical components that hadn't been working started working again.
About the gear lube, I'm no expert on that, but I do know that when Idaho Drive Train installed an Eaton Tru-Trak in my Dodge van they used synthetic. I then asked them if any further maintenance was required, and they said nope, just drive it. Might be worth looking in to?

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


You probably heard it, at least partially, from me ... in my rants a few hundred pages back it this thread. It feels like 90 percent of the vehicle electrical problems I've encountered are ground problems. (In reality, 40-50 percent ... with the rest 'creative' rewiring by previous owners, age, corrosion, and loose connections.)

You're definitely correct about an engine-to-body ground strap. If it didn't have an OEM strap, it doesn't hurt at all to add one. I sometimes also add a body-to-chassis (frame) strap.

I definitely prefer the bare braided metal ground straps for this purpose. Their purpose and existence is visibly evident. They're also more resistant to stress cracking and loosened connections arising from vibration.

j-d wrote:

In Fords, with Dana axles, we're going to 75W-140 full synthetic. Walmart has the best price. Just be sure you get the FULL, since they carry it along with Dino and Blend.
On dino oil, a rather short change interval per Ford. On full syn, considered lubed for life unless submerged in water.
Early syn had some stability problems but with those resolved now, it's the way to go. Did our E450 with 9500-lb Dana, and our little Aerostar with 4.56 limited slip. All good.

j-d wrote:

In Fords, with Dana axles, we're going to 75W-140 full synthetic. Walmart has the best price. Just be sure you get the FULL, since they carry it along with Dino and Blend.
On dino oil, a rather short change interval per Ford. On full syn, considered lubed for life unless submerged in water.
Early syn had some stability problems but with those resolved now, it's the way to go. Did our E450 with 9500-lb Dana, and our little Aerostar with 4.56 limited slip. All good.