Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
 Offline
|
Cut the u-joint out and route the vent near vertical through the roof. Whoever put a trap on the tank vent should have to clean septic tanks daily for a year.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
We got the Monaco on the garage pad, ready for re-installation of the engine, transmission, driveshafts and fuel tank. The Mrs. used the tractor to pull it most of the way; the CJ-5 winch got her into position.
My son graduates high school today, so no more work. I’ll get the engine tomorrow. Here are some pics.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/g9Ktsusl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/bOB5uQxl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/rEWkWTCl.jpg)
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
|
BitsPerSecond
Tricities, TN
New Member
Joined: 05/27/2018
View Profile
|
Thought I'd Post here, because this seems to be the place with the most information on these RVs. I bought a 1976 Dodge Brougham a few months ago on Craigslist. Title came back clean (and is now officially mine) and I'm looking at fixing it up. It runs just not safely.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/GC8PSvDl.jpg)
The buddy I bought it from was originally gonna pull motor and tranny for another build. He's also the one who started removing white paint on the one side because he thought it looked cool (and contemplated keeping it). Then he needed money to buy a vintage muscle car he wanted so I bought it from him. Supposedly a couple owned it for a long time and when they passed it became their daughters party wagon and that's where he got it. He said it was a '76 but the VIN shows it as a '77.
I plan on fixing it up to use for some road tripping, and it doubles as my back up plan. I payed less than a grand for it and figured I could always live in it when I finish school next spring. So far there were a few small holes in the siding. Nothing major, I patched them with some sealant tape temporarily. It needs a new door and thorough scrubbing inside and out. But there doesn't appear to be any signs of water damage. So far it needs brakes and tires, a new exhaust manifold. The gas tanks also needs pulled and cleaned. That's the extent of what I know right now. But I can't wait to get it fixed up.
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
Yup, you provide the hands and parts and we'll provide the knowledge.
What's wrong with the door? If not much, it can be refurbished ... possibly easier and less expensive than a new/used door.
It's a '76/77 split year motorhome. Chassis is a 1976 and coach was finished in 1977. Final manufacturer provides the title VIN. Stamped in the frame is the Dodge chassis VIN.
1976 and chassis VIN is important for finding correct parts for suspension, driveline, and engine.
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
BTW - there were alignment issues with some Dodge vans around that time. My '77 B200 required alignment different from published alignment specifications. Otherwise, it'd eat tires.
If you notice unusual tire wear, do like I did and find a very knowledgeable alignment person ... someone who can align from scratch rather than just following published specifications.
But first, make sure front bearings are up to snuff and preloaded correctly. Also, check ball joints/kingpins first.
If your tires are wearing in the inner side of the tread, check your brake pads. If the pads are wearing in a taper rather than uniformly, your front bearings weren't preloaded correctly.
|
|
|
j-d
Sunny Florida USA
Senior Member
Joined: 09/04/2003
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
One of the better-looking finds I've seen here! There are plenty of parts available and plenty of willing help here. I didn't own a Dodge-based RV, but had a '71 B300 window van for 21 years and a lot of projects on it. So I watch here from time to time and help when I can.
Swapped 318 engine for 360, learning the bigger engines 383 and 440 use a different cross-member!
Upgraded front brakes to disc, which you already have
Rebuilt front suspension a couple times
Replaced several transmissions. With that comes my first warning:
Torque Converter must be a "truck" converter, which I think is referred to as "low stall." If you install an automotive one, you'll accelerate faster because of the torque multiplication in "high stall" converters. BUT the RV presents such a load at cruising speed, that the converter will continue to slip, overheating and burning out the transmission.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
j-d -- ! agree with most of your post.
Big block (383, 413, and 440) requires a different transmission bell housing than small block (318, 340, 360) engines.
While the internals are mostly the same, the aluminum case for big block and small block A727 automatic transmissions are different and not adaptable. Furthermore, big block A727s are becoming very difficult to find. (If you find a big block A727, save the case ... it can be rebuilt.)
Do not consider converting to a stock A518 automatic transmission. Early versions had issues with the lock-up clutches in the torque converter. (Same for A727 lock-up torque converters around the same time.)
There were (and probably still are) aftermarket torque converters. Likewise, Mother Mopar has re-engineered more recent versions.
The A518 is based on the A727, with the fourth (overdrive) gear in a tail cone added to the A727. The 'front' part of an A518 is basically an A727, with mostly identical internals. The A518 tail cone (and overdrive gear) was not as well engineered as the original A727. A better option is to add a Gear Vendors over/under drive unit to the 'back' of an A727.
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
What a long weekend. I picked up the engine from my engine builder yesterday. I spent the better part of the day trying to remember what brackets went where....you can never take enough pictures to help the old memory.
I also took the heater core out and cleaned the box. I'll replace the gaskets and seals, so that everything is weather-tight. I'll also take the core, which is original, to the radiator shop and get it pressure tested, cleaned and fixed up....better than buying some Made In China **** that doesn't fit.
Today I spent the entire day cleaning the engine compartment. 43 years of dirt and grime wiped away with the help of Zep Concrete & Driveway Cleaner, aka Muriatic Acid. It almost looks new now, at least it's white again.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/2ooNKJnl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/BUjkoRUl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/NduYhSEl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/hrvWMYel.jpg)
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
BitsPerSecond wrote:Thought I'd Post here, because this seems to be the place with the most information on these RVs. I bought a 1976 Dodge Brougham a few months ago on Craigslist. Title came back clean (and is now officially mine) and I'm looking at fixing it up. It runs just not safely.
The buddy I bought it from was originally gonna pull motor and tranny for another build. He's also the one who started removing white paint on the one side because he thought it looked cool (and contemplated keeping it). Then he needed money to buy a vintage muscle car he wanted so I bought it from him. Supposedly a couple owned it for a long time and when they passed it became their daughters party wagon and that's where he got it. He said it was a '76 but the VIN shows it as a '77.
I plan on fixing it up to use for some road tripping, and it doubles as my back up plan. I payed less than a grand for it and figured I could always live in it when I finish school next spring. So far there were a few small holes in the siding. Nothing major, I patched them with some sealant tape temporarily. It needs a new door and thorough scrubbing inside and out. But there doesn't appear to be any signs of water damage. So far it needs brakes and tires, a new exhaust manifold. The gas tanks also needs pulled and cleaned. That's the extent of what I know right now. But I can't wait to get it fixed up.
That is one good-looking rig! You got a great deal on the price...I paid $600 for mine and have sunk a bunch into restoring it. That way, I get the rig I want, and it'll last us for years.
|
BitsPerSecond
Tricities, TN
New Member
Joined: 05/27/2018
View Profile
|
StingrayL82 wrote:
That is one good-looking rig! You got a great deal on the price...I paid $600 for mine and have sunk a bunch into restoring it. That way, I get the rig I want, and it'll last us for years.
Thanks! I paid 800. Ive got around a grand into it between towing etc right now. But Id been watching for a while and a lot of them going for that here have been gutted. Ive got it parked at a friends so I can take my time and borrow his tools. Planning to put money into it slowly.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:Yup, you provide the hands and parts and we'll provide the knowledge.
What's wrong with the door? If not much, it can be refurbished ... possibly easier and less expensive than a new/used door.
It's a '76/77 split year motorhome. Chassis is a 1976 and coach was finished in 1977. Final manufacturer provides the title VIN. Stamped in the frame is the Dodge chassis VIN.
1976 and chassis VIN is important for finding correct parts for suspension, driveline, and engine.
Thank you for the info. I plan on reading through this thread slowly. Ill be sure to keep an eye on the alignment when I get it running. I have a friend who is gonna help me with all things chasis/motor related. Ive never worked in an engine before. Ill let him know about the alignment.
The door to the rv portion did have water damage. There was water getting in through the window and a bad repair to the siding. I took the screws put of the frame and it desintegrated. I made a replacement for it right after I got it because I was worried about rain. But I didnt do a very good job because I was in a hurry. The list of problems now include: the adhesive I used to put the siding on didnt set properly. I used the old window frame which cracked and the window glass is slolwy sliding inside the door (I sealed over it with insulating plastic after that) and the insulation in there wasnt great. Also my door is square, but the doorway isnt quite. So yeah. I need to take it apart and fix it. Ill post some pics when Im not on my phone. The new door is essentially 2x2 put through a thickness sander and skinned with fiberglass like they iuse for showers. it was been keeping the water and the criiters out.
|
|
|
