Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Leeann wrote:Griff in Fairbanks wrote:Leeann wrote:Mine's a Class A with the 440-3, aka industrial version, but I would love to own a 413, which was only available as an industrial version... I'm not sure I'll ever get around to the Junior project. So, you might be able to talk me out of the 413 that's in Junior. (If so, and I get around to that project, I'd consider putting a Hemi in it.)
Yeah, but I'd have to get it from Alaska to Maryland...
I could be tempted, however, but my husband might kill me...
I just told Pat that if I never get around to Junior, you get the engine when I die.
There's lots of empty cargo capacity dead-heading back to the Lower 48. It takes a bit of searching but you can find very good rates. One person shipped a rare engine to the East coast and it only cost $50 more than it would have cost to ship it from Seattle to Florida,
Pat and your husband could commiserate ... they both have to rein in our wilder impulses.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I just told Pat that if I never get around to Junior, you get the engine when I die.
There's lots of empty cargo capacity dead-heading back to the Lower 48. It takes a bit of searching but you can find very good rates. One person shipped a rare engine to the East coast and it only cost $50 more than it would have cost to ship it from Seattle to Florida,
Pat and your husband could commiserate ... they both have to rein in our wilder impulses.
Excellent - thanks!
Yeah, poor Pat and Sam...at least we have a big yard and no HOA ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I looked at the limited English language information available on PELOX RE.
...
One question that came to mind, which you don't need to answer: Is it concentrate needing to be diluted or does it come ready to use?
PELOX RE is ready to use.
Preparations i like to use are:
PELOX RE against rust
![[image]](http://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/media/image/thumbnail/0C025_720x600.jpg)
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dadacwpr/p1010323.jpg)
FLUID-FILM: Rust protection. Fluid-Film creeps better than WD40. I sprayed some fluid-fim at the back of the Vespabody (inside) after 1 year the fluid-film came to light at front to the body and it's never drying up.
![[image]](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/800x600/80-17449d1361763663_clear_undercoat_day_36_1_a4a8503fbeff923419e36b2ce8c3a7d0b13a5a63.jpg)
Test on Youtube
OXYBLOCK: Protection of unpainted surfaces (if you like to preserve the original patina)
![[image]](http://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/media/image/oxyblock585847930063d.jpg)
![[image]](https://cdn.germanscooterforum.de/monthly_2016_04/image.jpeg.49c92e0437de36d8c8af3bef1da0759b.jpeg)
I don't know, but maybe most of this names are unknown or not popular in the USA but Griff, if you are interested i can compile a small set for testing and send it to you.
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Eric Hysteric wrote:I don't know, but maybe most of this names are unknown or not popular in the USA but Griff, if you are interested i can compile a small set for testing and send it to you. "Unknown" is a valid description, largely due to availability and familiarity. "Not popular" has a much more limited applicability. Some products are "not popular" due to being relatively unknown, a situation that can be correct. Truly unpopular products don't last long in the market place. A product being unpopular is usually the result of product inadequacies or being overshadowed by better products.
Most of the people on this thread are in North America so posting lists/descriptions of products only available in Europe wouldn't be very useful here. At a minimum, significant research into the European-unique products would be necessary for finding equivalent products available in North America.
It's becoming apparent you have significant experience in restoration. So, generic descriptions of products you use, rather than brand names, may be useful to thread members. Likewise, descriptions of your techniques would provide useful alternatives to what I post.
I'm not saying you shouldn't compile a list of useful EU products. Quite the contrary, I encourage you to do so ... sharing knowledge is important. However, publish the list where it is most useful -- that is, readily available to Europeans.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:...Most of the people on this thread are in North America so posting lists/descriptions of products only available in Europe wouldn't be very useful here. At a minimum, significant research into the European-unique products would be necessary for finding equivalent products available in North America.
It's becoming apparent you have significant experience in restoration. So, generic descriptions of products you use, rather than brand names, may be useful to thread members...
I find lists/descriptions, as well as brand names, quite helpful; I was able to find true GL4 SAE80 transmission oil for my 1976 CJ-5 in England, thanks to a helpful British fellow on the Jeep Forum. A bit of Googling got me the required amount and then some.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Quoting Griff:
"There's lots of empty cargo capacity dead-heading back to the Lower 48. It takes a bit of searching but you can find very good rates. One person shipped a rare engine to the East coast and it only cost $50 more than it would have cost to ship it from Seattle to Florida"
I ordered a whole "new take off" front axle and brake assembly from an outfit that retrofits Ford Vans from 4x2 to 4x4. Basically the Axles, Radius Arms, Steering Linkage and Brakes come off an E350 or E450 4x2 and are replaced with appropriate F350 4x4 components. Anyhow...
Once I had the "kit" identified, I called around for shipping quotes. Calling the shipper "store fronts" was looking expensive. The I learned about "freight brokers" (who find that space Griff mentions) and another term "less than truckload" or LTL (such as one pallet with an engine or such on it). Then "cross docking" which means my pallet might be moved from one truck to another within a terminal then sent on its way.
I came across Freight Management Logisticsand called them. I learned there's a tariff based classification system that figures into the pricing. So it's Size, Weight, From/To, Distance etc. AND in the RIGHT Classification, which a Shipper can "correct" if they determine the Class was wrong.
FML nailed it! They chose a "top tier carrier" (R&L in my case) and quoted price over the phone. A "Bill of Lading" is required, and they filled that out. All I gave them was seller's address and pick where I wanted to go get it. Picked up from my seller in PA one morning and available at the freight terminal in FL within about two days.
Having it delivered on the local receiving end adds cost, and still more when it's a Residence and Lift Gate Service. So I went Terminal. At the terminal, they fork-lifted my pallet into my pickup truck. I had to sign a waiver for that since it wasn't being pallet-jacked onto another big truck. Once I got the Kit home, I still had to unpack the carton and move the pieces separately then re-pack at the new location anyway. So having a pallet (mine was 400 pounds) sitting curbside would have done me little good.
FML's Happy Customer Testimonials are posted from major shippers, not One Time Little Me. But I did write a testimony, saying "I might just ship something to Myself, only to experience their great service."
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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j-d -- Thank you for your useful expansion on shipping large/heavy cargo. My comment dealt with a specific situation with a unique geographical challenge -- shipping something from Alaska and getting it into the Lower 48 logistics network. Your post provided a more informative description, useful to more people.
(Contrary to appearances, I do try to keep my posts relatively short. As a result, I have a tendency to condense or omit relevant information.)
Most people aren't fully aware of shipping options and alternatives. Consequently, they frequently pay more than necessary to have something shipped. By the nature of this thread, people may encounter situations requiring large/heavy shipments. (e.g., shipping costs on a new RV refrigerator.) Awareness -- and a bit of effort -- can lead to significant savings, especially if you can make use of deadhead movement. ("Standby" and "space available" are common terms for making win-win use of deadhead capacity.)
I recommend reading this Wikipedia "Less than truckload shipping" article. In addition to general description, the article describes 'wrinkles' in LTL logistics that can be exploited to reduce shipping costs.
The rare engine I mentioned previously actually went from Fairbanks to Seattle via a small air cargo plane dead-heading back to the Lower 48. The $50 was for extra fuel required due the engine's weight and a small charge for freight consolidation/forwarding pickup.
An extreme example, in terms of size and weight, is my '72 M375 motorhome. It was given to me by someone in Washington state. Fairbanks is a freight hub so I spent several weeks talking to various independent truckers. Eventually, I found a trucker who was under contract for a small LTL shipment that urgently needed to come up from the Lower 48. Satisfying the contract with just the LTL would have meant significant financial loss. There was enough room on his flatbed trailer for the motorhome so he agreed to haul it up here if I covered some of what he would otherwise be losing. The result was 1/10 what it probably would have cost me. (There's more to the story -- including a punctured blackwater tank -- but this is the relevant gist.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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The inbound/outbound cargo imbalance is significant but not unique to Alaska. Cities in the Lower 48 experience the same imbalance, with more cargo coming into the city than goes out. (Plus, outgoing cargo tends to be LTL.) With some effort, you can exploit this fact to reduce shipping costs.
A lot (if not the majority) of the semis you see on highways pulling two or three trailers are actually deadheading empty trailers to where they're needed. The same goes for flatbed semi-trailers stacked on top of each other.
It's not limited to semi-trucks. Trains pulling empty flatbed cars and boxcars are also deadheading those, usually mixed in with actual cargo.
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Griff in Fairbanks
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Back to what Eric and I were talking about --
WD40 is ubiquitous but not well understood. As a consequence, it tends to be misused and people are often disappointed by the results. It is not for freeing bolts and parts 'frozen' due to corrosion and seizing. In that respect, it's only slightly better than plain water. (I use PB Blaster and Kroil for this purpose.)
Likewise, it only provides very limited corrosion protection. Most importantly, it is not very durable, requiring frequent re-application to ensure continued performance.
The key to understanding WD40 is in its name. It was originally developed by NASA for a specific purpose. Simply put, it was the result of the 40th attempt to develop a sprayable moisture displacement compound. So the name means "Water Displacement (formula #)40." Significant development criteria included evaporation spanning mere weeks and residue limited to specific compounds. (Most of this is well documented on Wikipedia and elsewhere, with a limited amount of 'insider' knowledge.)
Note: I've used WD40 on the special tool I bought for reaming kingpin bushings. It is not really suitable for preventing corrosion during storage but was what I had on hand at the time. Continued use for this purpose requires re-application at least quarterly. (For the actual reaming process, I used a wax thread-tapping compound.). On my to-do list is getting and using a corrosion inhibitor more suited to long term tool storage.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Speaking of Seattle: BoeShield - Made (probably branded) by Boeing as a protective spray.
When Monkey Ward was still in business, they ran a New Year's Day riot sale. WD-40 for cheap. Back in the '60's cheap like 50 cents a can, limit two per customer. Families would come in. Hubby and DW pick up two cans each. Two grade school kids pick up two cans each. Toss two cans into the Baby Buggy. I use WD-40 liberally, but those Family Grabs were a hoot, and I never understood how they could use That Much!
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