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Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 02/22/18 05:41pm

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Rust remover containing phosphoric acid and surfactants: Primarily suitable for iron and steel, with limited suitability for other metals and completely unsuitable for some metals. Primarily used for rust removal and most effective in conjunction with hand scrubbing. A viable chemical alternative to abrasive rust removal. (i.e., sandpaper, steel wool, and sand and soda blasting.) Properly applied, it provides a significant degree of corrosion resistance, in the form of a thin layer of iron phosphate on the substrate. Also suitable for paint prep, mildly etching the surface and the iron phosphate residue acts as a type of primer.

Initially, I used Must for Rust and subsequently switched to PPG DX579. (I've since switched to using electrolytic rust/paint removal tanks, followed by brief DX579 treatment.)

Back when I was using Must for Rust, I sandblasted a pair of stamped steel engine mounting brackets. I treated one with Must for Rust and left the other untreated. After two years in an open unheated shed in interior Alaska, the treated bracket was just starting to show a slight orange tinge, indicating the initial stage of surface rust. (A quick wipe down with Must for Rust brought it back to ready-to-paint condition.) The other bracket was exhibiting significant surface rust, requiring a complete repetition of the rust removal and treatment process.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 02/22/18 07:23pm

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FLUID-FILM (and similar products): Eric's description states corrosion resistance, probably in the form of a surface barrier coating. He also implies it can be used as a penetrating fluid for freeing seized bolts and parts. It may also be suitable for use as an anti-seize compound, for bolts and parts that will need to be removed in the future. Finally, his description of its behavior over time implies it contains silicone.

Special note on compounds containing silicone: Silicone is useful in specific situations. In inappropriate situations, it is extremely problematic. Silicone is very tenacious. Once applied, it's effectively impossible to remove it completely. Silicone contamination is a well-known, massive issue when it comes to painting, powder coating, or varnishing things. Microscopic silicone residue creates very noticeable "fish eye" defects. In most cases, it's easier and cheaper to discard the contaminated item and use an un-contaminated replacement. (People are very aware of the consequences of bringing anything containing silicone within 30 feet of my woodworking tools. The same goes, to a lesser extent, for most of my other tools and work areas.)

OXYBLOCK: Appears to be a corrosion inhibitor barrier coating. It's probably what you see on reman brake calipers and similar parts. I have something similar that I use when appropriate.

Leeann

Maryland

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Posted: 02/22/18 07:25pm

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You also can ship via Greyhound bus, for cheaper than regular freight carriers (there are height and weight limits, but I got a long block that way once).

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Griff in Fairbanks

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Posted: 02/22/18 08:30pm

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j-d wrote:

Speaking of Seattle: BoeShield - Made (probably branded) by Boeing as a protective spray.

Yes, I've heard of it (apparently frequently) but never got around to getting and trying it. Your mention triggered a niggling sensation in the back of my mind, causing me to google Boeshield. The result was a Biblical-level burst of enlightenment, akin to Archimede's fabled 'eureka' experience.

Significantly, IT DOES NOT CONTAIN ANY SILICONE!!

Bear in mind, WD40 was created for a specific, very limited purpose. Boeshield was created to do what WD40 is claimed to but can't actually do. It's only mildly hyperbolic to say it can do everything short of changing a baby's diaper. If you have any doubts, google "Boeshield T-9 review" -- you'll find page after page after page ... of favorable reviews.

I'm flabbergasted I somehow managed to avoid trying it, in spite of noticing (but not reading) multiple glowing reports in woodworking magazines and elsewhere. In hindsight, I realized how much time and effort I've wasted using paste wax in decades (centuries?) old tool maintenance techniques.

Thank you, j-d, for giving me the nudge ... Boeshield T-9 is precisely what I need to protect my $100+ reamer in storage.

For those who want to explore further, Boeshield T-9 website.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 03/01/18 10:25pm

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Hi Gang,

My engine builder is satisfied that we have absolutely everything we need to fire up and break in the engine, so he's penciled me in on the dyno for next week. He's going to use his carburetor first, to ensure that there is zero wash down on the cylinders, allowing the rings to properly seat. Once the engine is good to go, we'll put my ThermoQuad on, get her dialed in, and pull three runs to see where we're at on HP and TQ.

Unfortunately, next week is also when I go in for surgery on my right elbow, which is long overdue. I first injured it in Kosovo, when an IED went off under our HMMWV, killing my friend. I re-injured it two years ago, when I was changing out the CV joints and boots on my father-in-law's ATV.

Moral of the story is don't always believe the service manual or YouTube; had I dipped the darn axle and joint in my parts washer, it would have revealed a circlip that would have released the joint from the axle. I hammered it off per the manual and multiple videos, breaking the joint in the process. Oh well, live and learn.

Tonight I bought two new Velvac 6.5"x10" mirrors, to replace the original Velvacs, which are cracked and toast. The pair cost me $45 on eBay with free shipping. I'll replace the convex wide-angle 6.5"x6" mirrors in the future.

If anyone is interested in the part numbers, the 6.5"x10" mirrors are Velvac 708181 and the 6.5"x6" mirrors are Velvac 708156.

[image]

Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme

Ballenxj

Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now

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Posted: 03/02/18 09:01am

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StingrayL82 wrote:

Can't wait to hear the numbers from the dyno. Good luck with the elbow.

Downsizing ">

Leeann

Maryland

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Posted: 03/02/18 02:50pm

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I tripped on my top concrete step (of five) and landed on the concrete walkway below). I chose to land on my right (I'm lefty) elbow rather than my head.

So it's cracked from the distal humurus (the top part of the elbow) up to the big break you can see, then it exploded, creating a displaced break there. He had to put 7 plates and 13 screws in, along with 2cc of demineralized bone matrix.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 03/02/18 08:50pm

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Leeann wrote:

Believe me, I (literally) feel your elbow pain. No really, I do. Especially today.

This is what's going on in mine (broke it Jun 10, surgery Jun 17). Fully healed but still working out the stiffness and kinks...

I tripped on my top concrete step (of five) and landed on the concrete walkway below). I chose to land on my right (I'm lefty) elbow rather than my head.

So it's cracked from the distal humurus (the top part of the elbow) up to the big break you can see, then it exploded, creating a displaced break there. He had to put 7 plates and 13 screws in, along with 2cc of demineralized bone matrix.

Holy heck, Leeann! That looks like my buddy's arm, when he shattered his Humerus in 13 places in Kuwait. The doc tells me that the surgery has an 80% success rate, but at this point 80% is better than the 100% pain I have had for the last few years. I hope you heal well.

I made a huuuuuuuge mistake. I've been picking parts from an '84 B150 and thought I'd be slick and use the fan, fan clutch and fan shroud. Well, the fan shroud wouldn't fit my radiator (different mounting points and studs vs. bolts), so I took the brackets off of the '84 radiator and had them brazed onto my radiator.

I got the radiator back today, tried mounting it to the van, and it wouldn't fit. Even the shroud wouldn't fit, because my radiator is thicker, so the bracket sits back an extra 3/8"-1/2", so I quickly called the radiator shop and they thankfully still have the old brackets, soooooo the radiator is going back in on Monday and getting the old brackets brazed back on.

You might ask, "Fred, why the heck are you going to this trouble?" Well, the original cooling setup didn't have a fan clutch and the fan clutch setup I found at the junkyard is too big in diameter to fit in the original shroud.

The solution was to find a smaller diameter fan/fan clutch setup, which I did. The part number is Mopar #2863216, which was used on the big block Mopars and it has seven blades. The diameter of the fan is 18.5", which is the same as the non-fan clutch fan, so it will clear the original shroud, which is 19.5" in diameter.

While some newer engine compartment parts fit my '75, it's really hit and miss. BTW, the A/C condenser from the '84 is one of those parts that does NOT fit. Why Monaco ordered their MB300's as non-A/C van chassis is beyond me, but I don't like that they then installed aftermarket A/C in them. Seems like it would have been easier to order it already installed.

[image]

* This post was edited 03/02/18 09:32pm by StingrayL82 *

Leeann

Maryland

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Posted: 03/02/18 08:57pm

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Fingers crossed for you. I hope you’re well in the 80%.

Mine is healing and advancing (about 1° from straight, bending fully, twisting is getting better and strengthening), but today’s weather really hurts.