GaryS1953
Michigan
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Joined: 05/26/2009
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Bionic Man wrote:GaryS1953 wrote:blt2ski wrote:Not enough hitch weight? That is typical of the issues you mentioned in my experience.
Marty I'm not sure what you mean. Could you elaborate? Here are the specs for the trailer:
Trailer Specs
Hitch Weight 663 lbs
GVWR 9463 lbs
Dry Weight 5777 lbs
Cargo Capacity 3212 lbs
Vehicle Specs
4WD:
Double Cab, 5.8 V8
9600 lbs / 4354 kgs – 5.3L (3.42 axle)
Thanks!
Where are you getting these values from? If you have less than 700 pounds of tongue weight on a nearly 10,000 pound trailer, that could cause your issues.
Got the trailer specs from Google, and the truck specs from the GM build sheet for my vehicle. The trailer weight is 5777, but I probably have around 2000 lbs cargo on it.
Gary in Michigan
2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 Double Cab 5.3 Liter V8
1996 Coachmen Catalina RB210 21' Fifth Wheel
495 Watts Solar, 40 AMP Renogy Tracer MPPT Controller,2 GC2 6V Batts.
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Bionic Man
USA
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Joined: 04/03/2009
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GaryS1953 wrote:Bionic Man wrote:GaryS1953 wrote:blt2ski wrote:Not enough hitch weight? That is typical of the issues you mentioned in my experience.
Marty I'm not sure what you mean. Could you elaborate? Here are the specs for the trailer:
Trailer Specs
Hitch Weight 663 lbs
GVWR 9463 lbs
Dry Weight 5777 lbs
Cargo Capacity 3212 lbs
Vehicle Specs
4WD:
Double Cab, 5.8 V8
9600 lbs / 4354 kgs – 5.3L (3.42 axle)
Thanks!
Where are you getting these values from? If you have less than 700 pounds of tongue weight on a nearly 10,000 pound trailer, that could cause your issues.
Got the trailer specs from Google, and the truck specs from the GM build sheet for my vehicle. The trailer weight is 5777, but I probably have around 2000 lbs cargo on it.
First, I wouldn’t trust google for the weights. You really should find a CAT scale and see what weights you really have, total, and tongue weight.
2000 pounds is a lot of cargo to have on board. I’m assuming that is an estimate as well, but if you have that much weight somehow behind the rear axle it will unload the tongue weight of the trailer and could cause your problems.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010
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GaryS1953
Michigan
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Joined: 05/26/2009
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Bionic Man wrote:GaryS1953 wrote:Bionic Man wrote:GaryS1953 wrote:blt2ski wrote:Not enough hitch weight? That is typical of the issues you mentioned in my experience.
Marty I'm not sure what you mean. Could you elaborate? Here are the specs for the trailer:
Trailer Specs
Hitch Weight 663 lbs
GVWR 9463 lbs
Dry Weight 5777 lbs
Cargo Capacity 3212 lbs
Vehicle Specs
4WD:
Double Cab, 5.8 V8
9600 lbs / 4354 kgs – 5.3L (3.42 axle)
Thanks!
Where are you getting these values from? If you have less than 700 pounds of tongue weight on a nearly 10,000 pound trailer, that could cause your issues.
Got the trailer specs from Google, and the truck specs from the GM build sheet for my vehicle. The trailer weight is 5777, but I probably have around 2000 lbs cargo on it.
First, I wouldn’t trust google for the weights. You really should find a CAT scale and see what weights you really have, total, and tongue weight.
2000 pounds is a lot of cargo to have on board. I’m assuming that is an estimate as well, but if you have that much weight somehow behind the rear axle it will unload the tongue weight of the trailer and could cause your problems.
That makes good sense. I'll try to get that done in the next couple days and get back to the board. Thanks very much!
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BarabooBob
Baraboo, WI
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Using air bags to lift the rear does not change how much weight is on the front axle. I weighed my truck axles when the truck was empty and when hooked up to the camper. You don't want the front axle to get light because driving will be like wrestling a snake.
Bob & Dawn Married 34 years
2017 Viking 17RD
2011 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost 420 lb/ft
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Joined: 08/19/2009
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GaryS1953 wrote:valhalla360 wrote:Empty weight is irrelevant and payload often runs out before tow rating.
Swing by a CAT scale and find out what the real weights are (loaded as if you are going on a trip). Take 3 measurements (after the first, you can do re-weighs for like $3, so probably $20-25 total).
- Fully hooked up with the WDH connected.
- Hooked up but disconnect the WDH bars.
- Just the truck.
With this info, you can determine the actual weight of the trailer and the actual hitch weight. Then you can determine the hitch weight and if the truck is overloaded.
On the door of the truck are stickers that provide overall and per axle payload ratings.
It might be that the trucks rear suspension is overloaded or it could be the opposite and the hitch weight is too low. If it's too low, airbags won't help.
I may get to a cat scale, but in the meantime could you elaborate? What is meant by "hitch weight is too low"? Thanks!
Hitch weight should be minimum 10%. Ideally between 12-15% (more is actually better but unlikely your truck could handle it).
Assuming you are at 8000lb loaded (guess based on empty weight plus a couple thousand in cargo, which is very realistic when you figure water, propane, batteries, etc...). You should be looking at around 1000-1200lb hitch weight. Add in say 4 people plus firewood, cooler etc... in the truck. All that counts against payload. You could easily have 2000lb on the truck and most half tons have around 1500lb payload (it can vary drastically). That would leave you over payload and with the squishy suspension on lighter duty 1/2 ton trucks, it can feel squirrely when driving. Airbags can help with the ride if you are overloaded but you are still overloaded, so it's masking the issue.
Alternatively, if you are light on hitch weight say 8%, even if the truck is fine, the trailer can get squirrely. Airbags won't help with this issue.
As previously mentioned, factory empty weights are irrelevant. They don't include any gear you put in the trailer, water, propane, batteries, any aftermarket bolt on items, etc..., so reality is you will never tow at empty weights.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
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KD4UPL
Swoope, VA
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Do you have P or LT tires in the truck? 35 pounds of air can't be enough. You should have LT tires inflated to I'd guess 40 to 50 psi depending on weight.
You are very likely over your trucks GVWR. You are quite likely over your tire weights if the are P tires.
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rjstractor
Maple Valley, WA
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GaryS1953 wrote:dustminer wrote:What is the payload capacity of said truck?
Trailer Specs
Hitch Weight 663 lbs
GVWR 9463 lbs
Dry Weight 5777 lbs
Cargo Capacity 3212 lbs
Vehicle Specs
4WD:
Double Cab, 5.8 V8
9600 lbs / 4354 kgs – 5.3L (3.42 axle)
None of the cited numbers have anything to do with truck payload. The 9600 lbs listed under your truck doesn't mean much- maybe it's your towing capacity?
You have a 1500 series truck, which when towing a trailer of that size and weight, it will tend to feel squishy since the rear suspension is designed more for ride quality than being able to handle heavy weights. Air bags will help, as will LT rated tires inflated to the correct pressure.
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GaryS1953
Michigan
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KD4UPL wrote:Do you have P or LT tires in the truck? 35 pounds of air can't be enough. You should have LT tires inflated to I'd guess 40 to 50 psi depending on weight.
You are very likely over your trucks GVWR. You are quite likely over your tire weights if the are P tires. I have P tires, and you are right, and actually I should have a 3/4 ton truck, but that just isn't in the cards : ). Beginning to think I just need to sell this camper and go back to something smaller.
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1320Fastback
Vista, Ca
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Air bags and E rated truck tires might solve your issue.
1992 D250 Cummins 5psd
2005 Forest River T26 Toy Hauler
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JRscooby
Indepmo
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KD4UPL wrote:h. You should have LT tires inflated to I'd guess 40 to 50 psi depending on weight.
You are very likely over your trucks GVWR. You are quite likely over your tire weights if the are P tires.
Yes, LT tires truck will stiffen the ride, even MT.
As to the more air in tires; Bet if you checked the inflation tables you would find the PSI truck manufacturer puts on the post is what is needed to carry the weight rating manufacturer puts on axle.
(For years, part of check trailer tire routine was bump rear tires of TV up about 15%, even after Cat told me I was under rating on all axles. 1 trip I had wife check tires while I was doing something else with TV. Short tow, but drove better. Routine changed.)
GaryS1953 wrote:KD4UPL wrote:Do you have P or LT tires in the truck? 35 pounds of air can't be enough. You should have LT tires inflated to I'd guess 40 to 50 psi depending on weight.
You are very likely over your trucks GVWR. You are quite likely over your tire weights if the are P tires.
I have P tires, and you are right, and actually I should have a 3/4 ton truck, but that just isn't in the cards : ). Beginning to think I just need to sell this camper and go back to something smaller.
Will you break even selling the trailer to buy smaller? Why not weigh your rig, compare numbers to ratings, and make adjustments from there? If you can't get right on tire ratings, need to make major changes, (Pair of LT tires for rear of TV likely would solve that issue) but there is some play in other numbers. There are decisions that can be made to reduce total weight, and to some extent where the weight is carried.
The Cat might tell you your fat on trailer tires. (Are they aired to max on sidewall? Flex there can cause bad handling)
Another thing you should do is pay real close attention to driving TV without trailer. Does it track real good? Any bad manners MT get worse with a load. TW of trailer is a load placed in bad part of vehicle. Lowering the rear reduces caster of front. Lifting the front when unload can change it too. Together, not a lot of change, but maybe enough to put it out of spec.
The bottom line is without a trip to Cat you're using your thumb for a anvil. Getting little done, and hurting yourself while doing it.
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