Grit dog wrote:



Yahk bahk, this is an example of misleading information.
However if NOT building to code and only a seasonal site, freezing concerns are much lower. Possibly not a real world concern at all. Maybe not even a regulatory concern however that is highly doubtful as even places that have virtually no residential building inspections and loose easy to acquire permitting still generally regulate sanitary sewer closely compared to other utilities due to the sensitive nature of installation and effluent.
However no one including the above response knows enough about your situation to surmise that trench depth would not be a concern for regulatory or practical reasons.

Fwiw if you have specific questions and need specific feedback I can try to help. Just pm me.
I’ve installed underground sewer from 3” to 108” diameter. What you’re doing is quite likely something I’d rent a little trencher or mini-exc and do in a weekend during the off season when none of the nosy neighbors are present! Lol.

Grit dog wrote:

And if you’re out in the toolies, finding that half lucid plumber could be your next challenge after figuring out the feasibility of whatcha want to do! Seriously.

ssthrd wrote:



If you get a contractor it is one of their responsibilities to do the locates. You also need to make sure that they declare themselves "Prime Contractor" so that they bear the brunt if there is a accident/injury, and WCB gets involved. Otherwise, you as the owner are on the hook. Just saying..........

It looks like a very simple job which a small excavator/backhoe can handle. Probably not a big deal cause it's on private property anyway, and you are not a contractor.

But you should still do the locates --storm, sanitary, water, hydro, tel, cable, gas, street lights, etc.

wapiticountry wrote:

I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.

JRscooby wrote:




That sounds like a pretty steep drop to me. Inch in 10 feet is what I remember, but it's been a long time sense I put in septic tank.
As to the "runs down hill". In fact, if the grade is not right the water will run off and leave the solids. When putting in sewer lines, you want stuff to flow. If needed to stay below grade use flow, vertical drop, flow, stairstep looking trench.
And the bottom of the trench needs to be stable enough you don't get any settlement that can cause low spots.

Grit dog wrote:

^Yup very “basic” for those who know what to do and not horrible for those who are some what handy, mechanically inclined, somewhat informed and wholly motivated.
Totally a diy job for someone who fits the above category.
Not so much if you’re like any of the folks I know who possess zero knowledge skill or desire in any of the things that would lend one the ability to do a diy project like this.

What you said IS easy. IF the right conditions are present. Topography was never mentioned. That is one of the first go/no go considerations.
You, me and many others could walk the OP through a diy of this pretty easy I bet. If he provided any tangible information.

JRscooby wrote:



In much of this country a professional can be fined for not calling for locating before starting a dig. And on a big deep cut they come out every 2-3 days.
A home-owner not far from me got in trouble when he decided to move mailbox, hit phone line with shovel.

YahkNBahk wrote:



I'm pretty sure this the route I'm going to go. I wouldn't need to go more than 25' or so. I'll keeping these instructions. Thanks!