wapiticountry
Mountain West
Senior Member
Joined: 10/02/2011
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.
* This post was
edited 04/21/23 01:57pm by wapiticountry *
|
JRscooby
Indepmo
Senior Member
Joined: 06/10/2019
View Profile
Offline
|
wapiticountry wrote:The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line.
That sounds like a pretty steep drop to me. Inch in 10 feet is what I remember, but it's been a long time sense I put in septic tank.
As to the "runs down hill". In fact, if the grade is not right the water will run off and leave the solids. When putting in sewer lines, you want stuff to flow. If needed to stay below grade use flow, vertical drop, flow, stairstep looking trench.
And the bottom of the trench needs to be stable enough you don't get any settlement that can cause low spots.
|
Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
Senior Member
Joined: 05/06/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
^Yup very “basic” for those who know what to do and not horrible for those who are some what handy, mechanically inclined, somewhat informed and wholly motivated.
Totally a diy job for someone who fits the above category.
Not so much if you’re like any of the folks I know who possess zero knowledge skill or desire in any of the things that would lend one the ability to do a diy project like this.
What you said IS easy. IF the right conditions are present. Topography was never mentioned. That is one of the first go/no go considerations.
You, me and many others could walk the OP through a diy of this pretty easy I bet. If he provided any tangible information.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
|
ssthrd
Vancouver Island
Senior Member
Joined: 03/23/2016
View Profile
|
wapiticountry wrote:I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.
Sounds like a plan......... if that's the scenario. As I said above, hopefully it will be that easy.
Yes--maybe a bit over the top, but without seeing the job, it could be a piece of cake, or a nightmare. Too many variables, and just pointing out a few possibilities since it's obvious that OP has no experience with this kind of thing.
2014 Keystone Laredo 292RL
2013 Palomino Maverick 2902
2018 GMC 3500HD, 4x4, 6.5' box, SRW, Denali, Duramax, Andersen
DeeBee, JayBee, and Jed the Black Lab
The hurrier I go the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll)
|
nickthehunter
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 07/18/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
I have been directly (first hand) involved in the design, inspection and construction of a few million feet of sanitary sewers. All of our 6 inch laterals were designed at 1% minimum slope (12 inches per 100 feet)(we don’t use 4 inch laterals but they can have the same slope). Greater slopes up to 1/4+/- inch per foot (2.5 %) are fine. All of our designs are reviewed and approved by state government authorities prior to construction, by law. All designs must comply with “Ten States Standards” and state law. Clicky
|
|
|
wapiticountry
Mountain West
Senior Member
Joined: 10/02/2011
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
ssthrd wrote:wapiticountry wrote:I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.
Sounds like a plan......... if that's the scenario. As I said above, hopefully it will be that easy.
Yes--maybe a bit over the top, but without seeing the job, it could be a piece of cake, or a nightmare. Too many variables, and just pointing out a few possibilities since it's obvious that OP has no experience with this kind of thing.
The guy said he currently just has to lay a hose across the yard to the drop. That implies it isn’t up a steep hill or over the side of a cliff. And while it is true excessive slope can cause problems, on such a short run where the line will likely be periodically flushed with larger flows (emptying gray tank after black) a moderately steep slope would still function. Unless the yard is solid rock this is a duo or handyman type of job. No need for engineers, permits, plumbers, excavation contractors etc.
|
Thermoguy
Graham, WA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/04/2017
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
I had some work done on my septic a number of years back. Hired a company and they did it all. It was a few thousand, but something I could not do and had no place doing myself. They took care of all permits, locating, digging, etc. I would recommend hiring a professional.
|
Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
Senior Member
Joined: 05/06/2013
View Profile
Offline
|
Wapiti has a valid point, gleaned from the OPs post(s).
If we were doing a murder mystery game (which many of these threads have elements of, trying to discern or diagnose something in the effort to help someone) he gets a big point for recognizing that.
However by way of the nature of the OPs posts, it doesn’t matter. Without a “plumber buddy” in his back pocket, this isn’t a diy job for him. At least not efficiently or possibly even successfully.
|
YahkNBahk
Yahk B.C.
New Member
Joined: 04/20/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
Grit dog wrote:Far out?
Yeah you need to call someone.
Depending on the scenario of which we have no knowledge of location, topography, grade depth, soil type, etc, this may be very simple or very expensive.
But there’s a few rules with gravity sewer that can’t be broken.
1. Sht flows downhill
2. You have a 1% variation in slope from 1% to 2% slope and no bumps or dips or it won’t work.
3. You’ve already gotten some misleading information in this thread (in general, irrespective of your actual conditions) so be careful of internet advice.
4. Unless you can figure out elevation slope and grade, you can’t even plan how or where to run the line or what to tie into.
It’s likely a very simple job that any halfway lucid plumber could/would do. In lieu of a utility contractor. But you need to know #1,2 and 4 to determine the scope of work required.
#1, #2 and number #4 are the reasons why I'm hesitant to do the work myself. I don't think I could get the slope right and then have a real big problem.
|
YahkNBahk
Yahk B.C.
New Member
Joined: 04/20/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
JRscooby wrote:YahkNBahk wrote:folivier wrote:Not sure if Canada has this service but here in the states you can call 811 and ask the local utilities to locate their underground lines for you. Then if you hit one it's on them.
Here is Canada: https://call811.com/811-In-Your-State/Canada
Oh far out. This is good to know. Thanks!
In much of this country a professional can be fined for not calling for locating before starting a dig. And on a big deep cut they come out every 2-3 days.
A home-owner not far from me got in trouble when he decided to move mailbox, hit phone line with shovel.
I know you need to call beforehand for residential but never clicked that I would need to for an RV spot.
|
|
|
