JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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enahs wrote:Sooo, got the new part and pulled the cooktop. The new part was ordered because Dometic told me that the old part was defective and had been replaced by a new item. They sent a schematic of the original part and it is clearly different than the new part. Too, they indicated that the new part would be covered by warranty. Turns out that the new part and the part in the cooktop are the same. And the only way Dometic will apply a warranty is to have an official Dometic center declare the old part defective — which, under the best of circumstances, is only possible at high elevation. As for Escape, the trailer manufacturer, appliances are warrantied by their manufacturers! They were of no help on an RV that is billed as high quality and only several months old. Why am I not surprised!
Oh great. It appears there might be 3 - 4 options to resolving this. Or at least the 4 that come to mind.
1. Find someone near you with a lab and a vacuum chamber to put the whole stove in and create 4,500 ft elevation's conditions. Most likely not an option...
2. Go on a camping trip with the camper the way it is now to a place out west at 4,500 ft elevation and re-create the problem. Then find a Dometic authorized repair shop out there, have them install the new one and declare the old one bad and maybe the new one too. Then sort out what ever that outcome is. This option is complex and may not happen.
3. Install the new parts, hope for the best and you end up eating the cost of the parts. This may or may not work.
4. You are not really in a good spot unless you can find a Dometic repair shop that has dealt with these before and can comment on if they have found this same issue and what they did to resolve it. A bunch of calling to shops in the area your relative was camping at, may turn up something. This option might help give you the best hope for a resolution.
From what I have experienced, anyone other then a Dometic authorized shop trying to get any traction on warranty resolution just does not happen. They will not even talk technical with you or accept new still in the package parts to test themselves.
Hope this turns your positive for you, somehow. Let us know how this comes out.
* This post was
edited 04/14/22 03:56pm by JBarca *
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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StirCrazy wrote:JBarca wrote:StirCrazy wrote:
your instincts are corect in that atmospheric pressure plays a part but non of your calculations will work if you us 0 as a atmospheric pressure. it is 14.7psia or 101kPa at sea level and at 4500 feet it is aproximatly 12.5psia or 85.7kPa and 10 to 11" of watter colume is 0.36 to 0.4psi so realy at 4500 feet there should still be plenty of differential for it to work, maybe a slight yellowing at the tips of the flames. the problem with atmospheric relief regulators is they do use atmospheric pressure to act on the diaphram, the intent is to prevent an air lock from forming above it and preventing it from closing and it has a neglagable effect, but it is also much cheeper than using a pressure ballanced regulator set up.
myself I would remove the regulator , make a fitting to bridge the gap and try the stove, if it works put a new regulator in. mind you this might be more than you want to do while camping. the other option is to change it out and see how it works next time your camping.
this thread has me wondering if mine is starting to get week, I changed out my main regulator and everything got better but I do have a flame that is a little two yellow but I am under 1000 feet and even when I am at 4500-5000 feet it doesnt change realy, hmm something else to updte now I guess... thanks ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Thank you. You are correct, I forgot the 14.7 psi at sea level. Thanks to reminding me what I forgot....
no worries, I have been working with PSIa for 35 years now and I still have a momentary laps when I look at mormal pressur guages and try to plug the 0 into an equasion ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
We have a common thing going on, we are only 14.7 psi apart...LOL I have been working with PSIg for 40 years and forgot about normal atmospheric pressure at sea level![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/rolleyes.gif "rolleyes")
What's a few psi amongst camper buds...other then the wrong answer ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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enahs
Idaho
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Joined: 03/11/2003
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Sooo, got the new part and pulled the cooktop. The new part was ordered because Dometic told me that the old part was defective and had been replaced by a new item. They sent a schematic of the original part and it is clearly different than the new part. Too, they indicated that the new part would be covered by warranty. Turns out that the new part and the part in the cooktop are the same. And the only way Dometic will apply a warranty is to have an official Dometic center declare the old part defective — which, under the best of circumstances, is only possible at high elevation. As for Escape, the trailer manufacturer, appliances are warrantied by their manufacturers! They were of no help on an RV that is billed as high quality and only several months old. Why am I not surprised!
'07 Chevy 3500 Dooley, CC, LT3, D/A
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StirCrazy
Kamloops, BC, Canada
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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JBarca wrote:StirCrazy wrote:
your instincts are corect in that atmospheric pressure plays a part but non of your calculations will work if you us 0 as a atmospheric pressure. it is 14.7psia or 101kPa at sea level and at 4500 feet it is aproximatly 12.5psia or 85.7kPa and 10 to 11" of watter colume is 0.36 to 0.4psi so realy at 4500 feet there should still be plenty of differential for it to work, maybe a slight yellowing at the tips of the flames. the problem with atmospheric relief regulators is they do use atmospheric pressure to act on the diaphram, the intent is to prevent an air lock from forming above it and preventing it from closing and it has a neglagable effect, but it is also much cheeper than using a pressure ballanced regulator set up.
myself I would remove the regulator , make a fitting to bridge the gap and try the stove, if it works put a new regulator in. mind you this might be more than you want to do while camping. the other option is to change it out and see how it works next time your camping.
this thread has me wondering if mine is starting to get week, I changed out my main regulator and everything got better but I do have a flame that is a little two yellow but I am under 1000 feet and even when I am at 4500-5000 feet it doesnt change realy, hmm something else to updte now I guess... thanks
Thank you. You are correct, I forgot the 14.7 psi at sea level. Thanks to reminding me what I forgot....
no worries, I have been working with PSIa for 35 years now and I still have a momentary laps when I look at mormal pressur guages and try to plug the 0 into an equasion
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
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JBarca
Radnor, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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StirCrazy wrote:
your instincts are corect in that atmospheric pressure plays a part but non of your calculations will work if you us 0 as a atmospheric pressure. it is 14.7psia or 101kPa at sea level and at 4500 feet it is aproximatly 12.5psia or 85.7kPa and 10 to 11" of watter colume is 0.36 to 0.4psi so realy at 4500 feet there should still be plenty of differential for it to work, maybe a slight yellowing at the tips of the flames. the problem with atmospheric relief regulators is they do use atmospheric pressure to act on the diaphram, the intent is to prevent an air lock from forming above it and preventing it from closing and it has a neglagable effect, but it is also much cheeper than using a pressure ballanced regulator set up.
myself I would remove the regulator , make a fitting to bridge the gap and try the stove, if it works put a new regulator in. mind you this might be more than you want to do while camping. the other option is to change it out and see how it works next time your camping.
this thread has me wondering if mine is starting to get week, I changed out my main regulator and everything got better but I do have a flame that is a little two yellow but I am under 1000 feet and even when I am at 4500-5000 feet it doesnt change realy, hmm something else to updte now I guess... thanks
Thank you. You are correct, I forgot the 14.7 psi at sea level. Thanks to reminding me what I forgot....
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Harvard
51.6N 114.7W
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Joined: 12/24/2005
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CA Traveler wrote:There could also be oil in the line to the stovetop blocking the flow.
x2, which congeals when cold but flows when warmer OAT.
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enahs
Idaho
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Hafta figure how to post parts schematic/
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enahs
Idaho
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I wish it were that simple. Unless you use the griddle over a campfire, you will encounter a regulator!
* This post was
edited 04/10/22 12:27pm by enahs *
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enahs
Idaho
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I wish it were that simple. Unless you use the griddle over a campfire, you will encounter a regulator!
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bucky
Raleigh metro
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Joined: 05/07/2003
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The collective knowledge of the group is amazing. I'm not smart enough to weigh in so I'm just going to buy a griddle.
Puma 30RKSS
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