enahs

Idaho

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My 0.8 or 0.9 reading is a guesstimate on my Yellowjacket tester. Visually, it is just a hair below 11.0. I was expecting it to be bit above 11 andI was wondering whether it should be set with appliances running.
'07 Chevy 3500 Dooley, CC, LT3, D/A
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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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What I am stating below, is from my background in industrial pressure controls in gaseous pressures (N2, Air etc), steam, and water. I a not a certified LP gas tech, but this is what I have found on RV systems I restore.
The main tank regulator normally has a 11" WC setpoint with no load. There is also regulator droop when an appliances kicks on. There may be a slight dip, then rise above 11 " WC. It should not exceed 14" WC when appliances are on, like the furnace and other large or small volume appliances. With the quality of standard RV gas regulators, (throw away devices, not repairable) it is getting harder to find a new one to hold between 11" WC and 12" WC when running. This may be considered normal in the RV world, again the 14" WC high limit.
Also, there is a tolerance on this, your 10.8" WC and 10.9" WC is an 11" WC in the eyes of many gas gauges with dial increments of 1" WC". In order to read 0.1" WC and be considered accurate, and traceable to the NIST (National Institute of of Standards) you need to buy a very expensive calibrated meter in a calibration program. And then there is how "accurate" +/- the meter is from it's reading.
Trying to dial in a RV gas regulator from 10.8 or 10.9 to 11.0" WC and the regulator be repeatable, is not practical from what I have found. The RV main tank gas regulators in general, again from what I have found, are rated in whole numbers for setpoint of 11" WC. There are not listing decimal points. If someone knows of a quality RV brand gas regulator rated in 0.1 decimal places that is repeatable to those decimal places, please let us know.
Hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
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enahs

Idaho

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With no appliances on, I get a reading of about 10.8 or 10.9 CIW at the test tap on the main regulator. Am I correct to think that this regulator should be set to 11 CIW with an appliance on?
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CharlesinGA

South of Atlanta, Georgia

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I wished this entire thread could be ported over to the Escape forum on RVLife. However RVLife administration gets triggered when something comes from elsewhere. If you have not OP needs to start a thread over there and write up what you and JBarca (John) have to say and discovered.
escapeforum.org
Another consideration is that many of the Escape owners install Dickinson stove tops, and ovens in some situations, and really like them. Again, go to the forum and check it out.
Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.
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enahs

Idaho

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Just about back together and want to give my assessment of the Dometic D21 cooktop. As all of the foregoing indicates, this item has an issue above 4500 feet elevation, which includes a great deal of the camping here in the West. In this case, the gas to the cooktop was completely cut off at that elevation. Dometic gives no warning on this but hides behind the insistence that this is normal for gas appliances. But were that issue overcome, any buyer should be made aware that unlike other stove appliances, the D21 does not permit the top beneath the burners tp be removed separately. To clean any significant spill, the entire stovetop must be removed and disassembled. And this is a complicated process — much more than removing a couple of screws and lifting it out. Aside from the cleaning problem this presents, it also prevents ready testing of gas fittings for leaks and proper LP WC specifications without pulling the unit entirely and working on it upside down (making the main gas line very difficult to attach without special equipment). BTW, given that Escape RVs are sold directly by the manufacturer who refers appliance issues to their respective manufacturers, there is no help from Escape on an issue such as this. Escape accepted Dometic's explanation of "normal" for the altitude malfunction. As for Dometic, nothing can be done except through an authorized Dometic warranty center which will be a long wait getting in.
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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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This is the Dwyer gauge I use. I also built a water manometer. The accuracy of the home made manometer is hard to beat, it just takes some time to get it setup, where the gauge is quick. I check the gauge against the manometer.
https://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Pressure-Test-LPTK-02-0-18-5/dp/B00F34RHUO
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enahs

Idaho

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I might build that. Depends on what I can find in a reasonably priced instrument.
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RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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enahs wrote: I am going to purchase a gauge to check WC and pressure. Any recommendations?
Depending on what you have laying around the house, this might work for you.
Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
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enahs

Idaho

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I am just going to eat the cost. The sad thing about Dometic is the fact that CS folks there don't know what they are taking about and merely repeat the pap they have learned in CS instruction meetings. Worse than worthless — I am experienced enough to have known the signs but ignored them! Presently, I am in the process of installing it in the hope that something has been changed. Never did hear back from the manufacturer. Then I plan to inspect the regulator on the old one to see if it can be made adjustable. Eventually, the entire system will have to be evaluated. I am going to purchase a gauge to check WC and pressure. Any recommendations?
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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How much did this part set you back? Helps decide how to handle it going forward.
Did it work?
(Reason #77 I don't buy new with warranty...costs more upfront and on the back end, not to mention the hassle when you get to deal with crooks)
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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