ItsyRV
Lost on the Blue Ridge Parkway
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xnizstudio wrote: We didn’t know the camper needed 110v until after it was fried.
With all due respect, how do you own an RV and NOT know the volts and amps? That's like saying you don't know if the stove is electric or propane.
1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.
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twodownzero
NM
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xnizstudio wrote:twodownzero wrote:Ed_Gee wrote:
Yup....lots of ignorance here.....one does not plug anything into a 'breaker'. That device simply installs in your house breaker box. The question is what did you actually plug your RV into.....my guess is an electric dryer 220v outlet, many of which will unfortunately mate with an RV 30A 120VAC plug. But glad your damage was held to a minimum. Could have been far more costly!
If you're going to be critical, why don't you at least read the thread before running off at the keyboard?
It was plugged into a 30amp RV outlet wired directly to a dual pole 30amp breaker putting out 220v. It was not a **** electric dryer outlet
I know, I read the thread.
I also am going to say that it has nothing to do with the breaker. If dual pole breaker had been wired to only one side with the other side on the neutral where it belonged, this would have never happened. Obviously double breakers are not made to be installed this way, but it would have worked and provided 120 v to the outlet. The problem was not the breaker; it was the wiring job.
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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The OP has learned several bitter and expensive lessons from this. He not only hasn't burdened anyone with his problems he didn't even try to blame others for a failed project.
I have a habit of not kicking someone walking with me who has just tripped and fallen.
Offer suggestions instead of useless criticism. The only productive manner in which to treat this is to try and prevent the next guy from doing the same thing.
Never EVER rely on advice from a basic wage employee. Have you ever dealt with a 30-amp electric stove and outlet? The helper was correctly identified as a "guy", not an "electrician".
If the OP was really lowbrow he wouldn't have attempted to post his errors as a warning. Several respondents have offered great suggestions. But as far as people, in general, are concerned...
I have had knotheads spout off that they knew my job better than I did...
So OP, keep rolling. Brush the dust off and keep smiling.
The critics are the people in a casino who just dumped several grand at the tables waiting an hour or two in line, to save a few dollars for chow-hall food. I just described them I didn't criticize. Get the point ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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Optimistic Paranoid
East Nowhere NY
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Well said, sir!
Or as Theodore Roosevelt said:
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles; or where the doer of deeds could have done them better ..."
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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ItsyRV wrote:xnizstudio wrote: We didn’t know the camper needed 110v until after it was fried.
With all due respect, how do you own an RV and NOT know the volts and amps? That's like saying you don't know if the stove is electric or propane.
The camper was purchased last week and it was delivered the same day it was plugged in to the outlet. I’ve never owned a camper or RV.
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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twodownzero wrote:xnizstudio wrote:twodownzero wrote:Ed_Gee wrote:
Yup....lots of ignorance here.....one does not plug anything into a 'breaker'. That device simply installs in your house breaker box. The question is what did you actually plug your RV into.....my guess is an electric dryer 220v outlet, many of which will unfortunately mate with an RV 30A 120VAC plug. But glad your damage was held to a minimum. Could have been far more costly!
If you're going to be critical, why don't you at least read the thread before running off at the keyboard?
It was plugged into a 30amp RV outlet wired directly to a dual pole 30amp breaker putting out 220v. It was not a **** electric dryer outlet
I know, I read the thread.
I also am going to say that it has nothing to do with the breaker. If dual pole breaker had been wired to only one side with the other side on the neutral where it belonged, this would have never happened. Obviously double breakers are not made to be installed this way, but it would have worked and provided 120 v to the outlet. The problem was not the breaker; it was the wiring job.
And again... had we knew it was 110v we would have never plugged it in and found the proper way to wire it. But , had I got the single pole breaker as originally planned, this would have never happened. The wiring job was fine. It was wired properly for 220v. Had I plugged a house dryer into it, it would have been fine. There was no wiring issue aside from the fact it should have been a single pole or the wiring could have been hacked to put out 110v had we knew it needed 110v.
If you have no better advice related to surge protector systems or ways I can test for damaged appliances, then I respectfully request for you to mind your own business. Thank you.
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red31
Dallas
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xnizstudio wrote: The wiring job was fine. It was wired properly for 220v.
We'll have to disagree on that! The TT 30A receptacle is not made made to be wired for 220v so it was wired incorrectly.
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
"The TT–30 is a 30A, 120-volt recreational vehicle standard sometime it is called simply RV 30. Frequently it is confused for a NEMA 10–30 (see below) with disastrous results. Due to the appearance of the TT-30 plug, many people assume that it is to be wired for 240-volt, but this is a 120-volt device."
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SoundGuy
S Ontario
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Joined: 02/11/2015
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xnizstudio wrote:The camper was purchased last week and it was delivered the same day it was plugged in to the outlet. I’ve never owned a camper or RV.
Yet you plugged it in anyway. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/confused.gif "confused")
Would you pull up to a gas pump and without knowing which was gas & what grade or which was diesel just go ahead and pump it into the tank anyway? ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/doh.gif "doh") Regardless of who wired this power source incorrectly you as the trailer owner are ultimately responsible for knowing the difference and making sure it's correct. Good luck to you, time to edumacate yourself on all things RV as there are many other UH OHs in trailer ownership that are also just waiting to smack you again. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/tongue.gif "tongue")
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380
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xnizstudio
North Carolina
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red31 wrote:xnizstudio wrote: The wiring job was fine. It was wired properly for 220v.
We'll have to disagree on that! The TT 30A receptacle is not made made to be wired for 220v so it was wired incorrectly.
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
"The TT–30 is a 30A, 120-volt recreational vehicle standard sometime it is called simply RV 30. Frequently it is confused for a NEMA 10–30 (see below) with disastrous results. Due to the appearance of the TT-30 plug, many people assume that it is to be wired for 240-volt, but this is a 120-volt device."
Again.. it was wired for 220v indoor appliances using a dual pole breaker. That has nothing to do with the recepticle . If we knew it required 110v , we would have went with the single pole which has a different wiring diagram.
As previously stated, if you have no advice on surge protectors or ways I can checkk for damaged appliances I respectfully ask you to please mind your own business and stop telling me it was wired wrong. I know what caused the issue and it won’t happen again in the future .
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red31
Dallas
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The receptacle is a 120v device no matter where it is wired. You are spreading misinformation. Stop!
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