Lantley
Ellicott City, Maryland
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spoon059 wrote:Yes.![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
I don't haul commercial, but I enforce traffic law. No traffic law exists that has anything to do with the yellow sticker... The only weight enforceable options that I have in Maryland are Tire rating, registered weight rating and federal bridge rating per inch width of tire.
For me the fact that the registered weight rating is what is used is sort of a flaw in the system.
Often the owner can decide what weight to register the vehicle at. The owner typically basis his decision on his wallet and not any real science.
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Me Again
AZ - Summer in NW WA
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Huntindog wrote:Me Again wrote:BTW all recently produced vehicles and traikers have a carrying capacity sticker that is the GVWR minus the actual weight as manufactured. This sticker is yellow or the part with this info is yellow. Look again. I have already looked. MY 2011 sticker is 100% silver with black print... And as an aside my axle weights add up to more than the GVWR, by quite a bit. GVWR is 13K. Axle ratings total over 15K.... GM COULD have put 14K as the GVWR and stayed in the same classification... They chose not to.
There must be a reason for that.
Your door placard does not contain this info?
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt........=TsWONOYJJicB3M:&tbnh=135&tbnw=373&w=600
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Huntindog
Phoenix AZ
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Me Again wrote:Huntindog wrote:Me Again wrote:BTW all recently produced vehicles and traikers have a carrying capacity sticker that is the GVWR minus the actual weight as manufactured. This sticker is yellow or the part with this info is yellow. Look again. I have already looked. MY 2011 sticker is 100% silver with black print... And as an aside my axle weights add up to more than the GVWR, by quite a bit. GVWR is 13K. Axle ratings total over 15K.... GM COULD have put 14K as the GVWR and stayed in the same classification... They chose not to.
There must be a reason for that.
Your door placard does not contain this info?
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt........=TsWONOYJJicB3M:&tbnh=135&tbnw=373&w=600 Your link goes directly to a sticker that has some yellow. But the only info on that sticker is basically tire info. No GVWR at all. Also no front or rear axle ratings. Simply tire size, and pressures. But your link has many pics to look at. Some of them show the silver sticker like I have. The silver stickers have much more info on them that pertains to this conversation. GVWR AND individual axle ratings. None of the yellow ones I clicked on show anything other than tire size, pressures and what the maximum cargo should be.
Thank you for posting that. It is not often that someone I am having a debate with posts a link that proves what I am saying. Usually they just sit back and demand that I prove it.
I appreciate your effort.![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Huntindog
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JIMNLIN
Oklahoma
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Quote:For me the fact that the registered weight rating is what is used is sort of a flaw in the system.
Often the owner can decide what weight to register the vehicle at. The owner typically basis his decision on his wallet and not any real science.
I see this posted continually on rv websites ....... anyways keep in mind not all states have some kind gvw or tonnage/weight/etc to register a non commercial truck. My state as maybe others has no gross weight for non commercial vehicle registration.
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4x4ord
Alberta
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Cummins12V98 wrote:
Please explain how I can load to my RAWR and NOT be over my GVWR. Why have a RAWR if I can't load to its limits.
If I load the front of my truck box with some 10" blocks and put some bags of Portland cement at the back of the box I might have placed 1400 lbs in the bed of my truck but because the heavier product is at the back I've lifted 100 lbs off the front axle. Now I hook onto my bobcat trailer that puts 1800 lbs on the ball. This removes another 500 lbs off my front axle and places 2300 lbs on my rear axle. So I've added 3800 lbs to my rear axle and removed 600 lbs from my front axle.
My rear axle is maxed out at 7300 lbs and my front axle is at 4750 - 600 or 4150 lbs. I've got my rear axle at maximum rated capacity and I'm still under my gvwr.
Edit: The previous numbers were just kind of pulled out of the air. After actually measuring the distance from the rear axle to my hitch receiver I see that putting 1800 lb of tongue weight on the rear hitch ball would transfer about 700 lbs from the front to the rear axle. So the bed of the truck could be loaded such that 100 lbs of the 1400 lbs goes on the front axle and the remaining 1300 on the rear.
* This post was
edited 03/05/18 09:32am by 4x4ord *
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Cummins12V98
on the road
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4x4ord wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:
Please explain how I can load to my RAWR and NOT be over my GVWR. Why have a RAWR if I can't load to its limits.
If I load the front of my truck box with some 10" blocks and put some bags of Portland cement at the back of the box I might have placed 1400 lbs in the bed of my truck but because the heavier product is at the back I've lifted 100 lbs off the front axle. Now I hook onto my bobcat trailer that puts 1800 lbs on the ball. This removes another 500 lbs off my front axle and places 2300 lbs on my rear axle. So I've added 3800 lbs to my rear axle and removed 600 lbs from my front axle.
My rear axle is maxed out at 7300 lbs and my front axle is at 4750 - 600 or 4150 lbs. I've got my rear axle at maximum rated capacity and I'm still under my gvwr.
Edit: The previous numbers were just kind of pulled out of the air. After actually measuring the distance from the rear axle to my hitch receiver I see that putting 1800 lb of tongue weight on the rear hitch ball would transfer about 700 lbs from the front to the rear axle. So the bed of the truck could be loaded such that 100 lbs of the 1400 lbs goes on the front axle and the remaining 1300 on the rear.
I'm betting it's a little loose feeling to drive.
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