fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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If you remember these screws, they are on the drivers side, and were screwed into plywood, from the inside.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverssidefront1.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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This is what it looks like from the inside.
The red circle are where the 2 screws were screwed into the steel framing.
The yellow circle, are the top 2 screws from the last pic, and the yellow arrow points to the 2 screws that are on the left of the last pic.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversdoor20.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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And here is what those screws were holding on. This is a view from the top.
It is the emergency brake bracket, and the lever. 6 screws hold it in place, with the 2 on the right, (red circle), being screwed into the steel frame.
The 2 yellow circles, were the ones that were screwed into the plywood.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversdoor21.jpg)
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fulltimin
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And this is the view that greeted me after I pulled the steel framing off, from around the drivers door.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversdoor22.jpg)
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fulltimin
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And this is the comparison from the right side. They are not exactly the same, as the passenger side is flat, whereas the drivers side is sloped for the driver.
The dash is also different, because of the gauges on the drivers side.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengersidedash.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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And here is the steel that I removed.
The passenger side was removed in 2 pieces, and this side was removed in 1 piece.
As you can see, it is not quite like the passenger side. At this point, if I wanted to, it would be very easy to remove the drivers door, by changing the framing just a little bit, and closing up the hole.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driversdoor23.jpg)
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Jim@HiTek
Gresham, OR, USA
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Closing up the hole is what I'd do. Reason is if you read critics evals of drivers doors they generally are only for the young, impatient types. As we age, climbing into and out of that door becomes a challenge and since most of us are retired, speed is not all that important when getting in or out of the RV. If an emergency situation bothers you or yours, put in an emergency egress window there.
And then there are all those stories of that door being noisy and the big thing...leaks around the door and door window.
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fulltimin
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Jim@HiTek wrote:Closing up the hole is what I'd do. Reason is if you read critics evals of drivers doors they generally are only for the young, impatient types. As we age, climbing into and out of that door becomes a challenge and since most of us are retired, speed is not all that important when getting in or out of the RV. If an emergency situation bothers you or yours, put in an emergency egress window there.
And then there are all those stories of that door being noisy and the big thing...leaks around the door and door window.
Not to mention, that thing weighs about 85 lbs.
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BigRabbitMan
Cottage Grove, OR
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fulltimin wrote:Jim@HiTek wrote:Closing up the hole is what I'd do. Reason is if you read critics evals of drivers doors they generally are only for the young, impatient types. As we age, climbing into and out of that door becomes a challenge and since most of us are retired, speed is not all that important when getting in or out of the RV. If an emergency situation bothers you or yours, put in an emergency egress window there.
And then there are all those stories of that door being noisy and the big thing...leaks around the door and door window.
Not to mention, that thing weighs about 85 lbs.
I think it all depends on the height of the coach. My coach is low in that the floor is only 16" above ground level. When I open the drivers door there is one step inside and then the floor area (which in the drivers area is 6" higher) and I swing into the seat. No outside rungs or toe holes to deal with. It is one of the things that I like about mine. I would agreed if yours is like a number of coaches that I have seen.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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BigRabbitMan wrote:fulltimin wrote:Jim@HiTek wrote:Closing up the hole is what I'd do. Reason is if you read critics evals of drivers doors they generally are only for the young, impatient types. As we age, climbing into and out of that door becomes a challenge and since most of us are retired, speed is not all that important when getting in or out of the RV. If an emergency situation bothers you or yours, put in an emergency egress window there.
And then there are all those stories of that door being noisy and the big thing...leaks around the door and door window.
Not to mention, that thing weighs about 85 lbs.
I think it all depends on the height of the coach. My coach is low in that the floor is only 16" above ground level. When I open the drivers door there is one step inside and then the floor area (which in the drivers area is 6" higher) and I swing into the seat. No outside rungs or toe holes to deal with. It is one of the things that I like about mine. I would agreed if yours is like a number of coaches that I have seen.
34" to the top of the step landing. About 38 to the flooring at the bottom of the seat.
There were 2 steps going into the drivers door. I only used them a couple of times, as it was not very convenient.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverssteps.jpg)
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