fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Next, I check to see if there is any play between the fence and a tooth on the saw blade. If the work moves, I know I will not have the same width cut as I have on the original.
Here, after pushing the work towards the blade, there is a slight gap between the wood and the fence, so I know it needs adjustment.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/cutdrawerparts2.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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I have the left side of the plywood against a tooth on the blade, not just the blade itself, as the tooth is wider than the blade.
Making sure there is no play between the blade tooth, and fence, I can cut the next set, knowing they will be the same size.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/cutdrawerparts3.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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While I am working on the drawers, I have a question.
I've been considering lighting inside, and would like to use all LED's.
We like the 6K lights, which are a bright light - more similar to daylight than the soft white lights, which are more commonly used.
I have 2 different sets of overhead lights which I can use LED's in. One set uses the standard 1141 type bulb.
The other set uses the T10 wedge type.
I would also like to use some LED string lights which are also 12 volt dc.
Any recommendations?
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joerg68
St. Ingbert, Germany
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The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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joerg68 wrote:The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).
Thanks for the post.
I did a poor job of writing that question. My fault.
I am not planning on putting lights in the drawers. I was actually talking about lighting on the ceiling.
There, that should be a little more clear.
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Lt46
Central Florida
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For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.
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sundancer268
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I replaced the T-10 type bulbs with this flat panel https://m4products.com/alplate-24-5630-nw-natural-white-double-aluminum-plate/ I am very happy with these plates and they come with various adapters to fit the many light sockets. I applied them to my fixtures using RTV Silicone caulk instead of relying on the double sided tape.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Lt46 wrote:For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.
Thanks for the reply.
Makes perfect sense. Would it make much difference if the light was more directly over the sink?
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fulltimin
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Thanks for the link. I just ordered one to compare with what I already have. I see these have 2 pigtails to work with either type of socket.
Supposed to be here next week - maybe. Lol.
I'll give a comparison.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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I have 6 more drawers to assemble for this section beneath the counter.
Tonight, I cut the grooves in all of the drawer pieces for the drawer bottoms, which are - (you guessed it - not quite 1/4" in thickness)!
That required 2 passes with a router bit that was less than 1/4" in order to get the required width of the groove.
1/4" bit would make the plywood fit looser than I would like.
So, I now have 12 drawer sides, with the grooves.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/drawersides3.jpg)
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