oyvind
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fulltimin wrote:
With everything else I am looking at, I haven't gotten to give enough attention to the electrical setup yet, although, most of it is going to be 12v dc.
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I was originally going for 48V since this allows for much more flexible placement of the batteries - I really don't want to dimension the cables for a peak of ~415 amps!
I got my hands on a really good 12V inverter though, so will see. This will come much later.
To control the voltage across the two alternators (to avoid one alt taking the bulk of the load), I was going to build this regulator, which can easily be adapted to any voltage wanted. So I should be able to easily reconfigure from 12V to e.g. 48V later.
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fulltimin wrote:
I figure, if I can get this insulated properly, there shouldn't be a need for a 13,500 btu ac overhead. That would cut ac usage by a considerable amount, as well as eliminate a huge hole in the roof. After all, we are only looking at 142.5 sq ft, and less than 1000 cubic ft.
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My plan exactly.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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oyvind wrote:...
fulltimin wrote:
I figure, if I can get this insulated properly, there shouldn't be a need for a 13,500 btu ac overhead. That would cut ac usage by a considerable amount, as well as eliminate a huge hole in the roof. After all, we are only looking at 142.5 sq ft, and less than 1000 cubic ft.
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My plan exactly.
One of the things I discovered this summer was, once all the insulation was removed from the ceiling, walls, and floor, it was actually MUCH cooler, and easier to keep cool, even during the hot, sunny days.
That kind of twisted my thinking a little, and I did do some more research on insulation.
Turns out, that, with a wall or ceiling/roof with no air space toward the outside, that the entire wall will eventually heat up, and radiate heat or cold directly through the wall or roof.
Adding an airspace just under the outside skin, with ventilation, now removes the radiation effect.
I used to notice that with the roof in tact, when the sun was on it, I could just feel the heat radiating off of the inside of the ceiling. Once the insulation was gone, there was some radiating, but nothing like it was with the insulation up there. Go figure.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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oyvind
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fulltimin wrote:
Turns out, that, with a wall or ceiling/roof with no air space toward the outside, that the entire wall will eventually heat up, and radiate heat or cold directly through the wall or roof.
Yep, this is why you in modern buildings use insulation with reflecting coating - it reflects the infrared radiation out. Having a thermal conduction barrier definitely helps though...
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At what point does it make sense to just rip off the entire fiberglass shell and build from scratch???
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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About 3 months ago.
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fulltimin
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After saying that, let me say this. I don't regret tearing this apart the way I did. It gave me plenty of insight as to how this was put together. That alone was a big boost to me, to look at it, and realize, that, this is not as complicated, as I thought.
There are lots of different pieces, systems, and so forth, but they aren't rocket science.
Broken down individually, they are manageable to remove, repair, and replace.
As I am rebuilding, I now have a better idea of some things to look out for, and modify, during the rebuild.
Hopefully, I can keep my mistakes to a minimum, and end up with a product, that looks like it does, in my mind.
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oyvind
San Francisco
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fulltimin wrote:
Just in case you are wondering, I have been doing my photo adjustments /manipulation with a free program called paint.net. The web address is ... https://www.getpaint.net/
It is a download for Windows, and just does a nice job, and hey, it's free. I have no affiliation with them, just a satisfied user.
Fun fact, I work with Rick who made and maintains this ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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fulltimin
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oyvind wrote:
Fun fact, I work with Rick who made and maintains this
That is a fun fact. Tell him, Thank You. Love that program.
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fulltimin
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oyvind wrote:
I'm going to hook this up with two alternators (custom voltage regulator) to drive the 12V bus/charge the batteries, and build some circuitry (including an Arduino or two) to start/stop the engine.
That's the plan anyway..
Could you get by with one alternator - say a 250 amp 12v, or maybe a bus alternator, which usually are 24 volt, instead of a dual alternator setup?
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fulltimin
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Back in the 1970's there were some buses built by MCI.
They were destined for Saudi Arabia. Knowing that it is kinda hot over there, MCI added a double roof for those buses.
They are known as the MCI MC-5. They were special in a number of ways including the double roof.
Instead of having the extra tag axle in the rear, they only had the one drive axle.
They were about 35' long, and I think, had a second set of doors on the passenger side about 2/3's of the way back. This first pic doesn't show a second set of doors, but some of them do show them.
Some of the bus guys search these out, for doing a conversion to an rv.
Note the double roof on these.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/mci5c.jpg)
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/mci5c2.jpg)
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fulltimin
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Here is pic of another MCI mc-5c bus with the double roof, and the extra set of double doors.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/mci5c3.jpg)
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