fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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And just for a little humor, I decided to weight this bin. Just a touch shy of 40lbs, assuming the scale is correct.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storageweight.jpg)
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
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Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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And finally for tonight, a picture of the screws I removed.
The ones on the left in the yellow circle, are sheet metal screws and are self tapping, and screwed through the steel lip of the storage box, and into the bottom of the steel floor joists.
The ones on the right, are also self tapping, also screw through the steel lip of the box, but then screw into the wood on the top side of the aluminum.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storageboxscrews.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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After cutting my aluminum to size on Friday, today, I started to sand the finish a little bit to make it a little rough, because I am planning to paint it with Por 15.
Por 15 needs a rougher surface, rather than a smooth one, for best adhesion.
So, here is a picture of my setup. Having a couple of clamps to hold it in place is a wonderful improvement over trying to hold it by hand.
My little Ryobi cordless sander worked like a champ, and I only discharged 2 batteries fully, and 1 about half, during the 2 hour sanding exercise.
You can see the difference between sanded and not sanded.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sandingaluminum.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Here are 2 pictures of some of the sheets after being sanded.
I had a total of about 18 sheets, some of varying size, and I sanded them on both sides.
Some of these will need to be joined together, to make one piece, in order to fit the size hole that needs to be covered, from the bottom.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sandingaluminum1.jpg)
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sandingaluminum2.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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During the process, I used these 4 sanding disks. The sharper the sandpaper, the easier and faster the sanding goes, just like sanding wood.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sandingdisks1.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Why, you might ask, would I use this method, instead of just buying larger aluminum sheeting?
Cost. Large sheets of aluminum are rather expensive. I called around trying to find sheet aluminum, and first of all, no one had anything even close to the thickness I was looking for.
The thinnest I found was about .032, and I was looking for .010 to .015, which is what Fleetwood used.
One outfit I called wanted about $140 for 2 pieces which would amount to about 31 sq feet of aluminum. In order to do the floor, it would cost me about $750.
So, after putting my thinking cap on, I checked the local box stores, and found that I could buy a sheet of 20" x 50' aluminum flashing for about $50. 2 of them would cover 166 sq ft, and that means I can do the entire floor, if I want to, for about $100, plus the cost of Por 15.
If you remember a little while back, I made a square wood box, and was gluing aluminum to it with Por 15, or screws, or Speed Grip, and was standing on top of it, to see how much pressure it would take.
I was using this aluminum, and wanted to know what kind of pressure it would take, before I used it on the bottom of the flooring.
Being satisfied with the results, now I am comfortable with using it for what I wanted it for, with a nice savings, included.
Total cost of aluminum and Por 15 for this part of the project, should come in about $150. Now, what to do with that $600 I just saved... Lol...
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oyvind
San Francisco
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Joined: 09/08/2017
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We too are now in the process of tearing down the interior of our 85 Pace Arrow, and unfortunately did find extensive signs of water damage in several places. Will likely need to replace both portions of the walls and flooring.
And just so it's said, I really appreciate the level of details you provide, it really helps give newcomers like me confidence in our ability to take on such projects.
When looking at the walls, I realized that while the brochure, and your photos of the framing, shows the frame made out of straight steel square tubing, the walls of this RV has quite the curve to it.
I can't remember you having remarked anything about this. Are your walls all straight up and down?
Here's a picture showing the curve of the door and its frame.
![[image]](http://www.kinsey.no/rv/images/IMG_20170715_103140.jpg)
* This post was
edited 10/22/17 11:07pm by oyvind *
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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oyvind wrote:We too are now in the process of tearing down the interior of our 85 Pace Arrow, and unfortunately did find extensive signs of water damage in several places. Will likely need to replace both portions of the walls and flooring.
And just so it's said, I really appreciate the level of details you provide, it really helps give newcomers like me confidence in our ability to take on such projects.
When looking at the walls, I realized that while the brochure, and your photos of the framing, shows the frame made out of straight steel square tubing, the walls of this RV has quite the curve to it.
I can't remember you having remarked anything about this. Are your walls all straight up and down?
Here's a picture showing the curve of the door and its frame.
You are correct in your assessment of our walls being straight up and down. There is no curve in them.
I was aware of some that Fleetwood built with the curved walls, and I honestly don't know how those walls are constructed, I would assume somewhat similar, but I really don't know, having never seen one of those apart.
If/when you have to pull your wall covering off, I would be interested in seeing some photos of how they assembled yours.
As far as you're finding extensive water damage, that does not surprise me. These things seem to be like the iceburg. Most of it is not visible.
Thank you for commenting on the level of detail. On occasion I wonder if I am going overboard with it, but then I figure, well - someone might be able to use the info.
You just never know who is reading the posts, as about 99% just read and never reply. And that is okay. Not everyone wants to be involved in a conversation, and are content to stay in the background.
I try to keep an eye on how many views this thread has on a daily basis, and we are up to about 250 per day, sometimes more.
I have no way of knowing if they are all different people, or if it is some of the same checking repeatedly, during the day.
Typically, I post at night after the day's work is over, and I have time to sit at my computer and "play".
So, let us know how you are making out with your rebuild. Above all, enjoy the journey!
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Hey, any of you out on or near the left coast, if any of you have a desire for a motor home project, very similar to the one I am working on, I just found one on Copart's website, at the Reno, Nevada location.
It is an auction, and goes off on Oct 26th 2017 at 3:00 pm. There are other vehicles being auctioned off, so actual sale time may be a little later than that.
Since they did not photo all of the interior, it looks like it may have a dinette behind the drivers seat. Not sure if it has chairs or sofa on the passenger's side.
This one is a Southwind instead of a Pace Arrow, but it should be nearly identical, to the Pace Arrow.
Southwind up for auction. 10.26.2017
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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So, not to leave the East Coast guys hanging.
A Pace Arrow also on Copart, at their Pittsburgh location.
Auction is listed as "future", so unknown when it will go off.
Pace Arrow future sale.
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