fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Also have one at the front, too.
Here you can see why things started leaking on this end, once I pulled out all the screws, from the door frame.
This end, the water was slightly higher, just at the bottom of the door.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengersidestorage1.jpg)
So, what happened here is this.
The rv had been parked in a location where the water ran off of the opposite side of the roof.
Where it has been sitting for the last several months, the front end is slightly lower than the back, and the right side, slightly lower than the drivers side.
So, this summer when we had several severe thunderstorms, with the pouring rain lasting 30 or more minutes more, instead of the usual 5 - 10, all that water ran off the roof, down the side of the rv, and over top of the door and door frame of this storage cabinet.
Since it was not fully sealed, we had water intrusion. Fortunately, it did not get inside the coach. ( I didn't see any evidence of that, because I already had the inside stripped).
So, I guess the moral of the story is, anywhere there is a hole in the sidewalls, I guess they need to be resealed every so often as well as the roof, to prevent leakage.
Like I said, I am glad my house wasn't built like this.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
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Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Time to digress just a touch, and then switch back to the motor home.
Finishing up my lazy susan, and spraying.
I took a small piece of plywood, countersunk 3 holes, and then screwed in 3 deck screws, from the back.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/lazysusan5.jpg)
Then flipped it over, like so.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/lazysusan6.jpg)
Now, I can put my plywood squares on top of it, and spin my lazy susan while I am spraying. Makes it so easy.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/lazysusan7.jpg)
Success.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/lazysusan8.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, back to the motor home.
Have not heard from my steel supplier yet, so I decided to start cutting some aluminum pieces that will go on the bottom of the floor joists to replace the bad stuff that was there.
Since the aluminum I am using is only about .010" thick, I came up with a way to cut it very quickly without cutting myself, and without using tin snips.
This pic shows the "tools" I used for this project.
A makeshift table, an aluminum square, 2 clamps, gloves, tape measure, gloves, and a utility knife.
I clamped the square in place pulled the aluminum under the one arm, measured to length.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/cuttingaluminum.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Then, I added one more clamp, (yellow circle), on the other side of the square, to keep the aluminum from moving.
Holding both the aluminum and the square at the same time, I used the utility knife to score a good line across the aluminum. I did not try to cut through the aluminum, just give it a good scoring.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/cuttingaluminum1.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Then, I removed the 3rd clamp, pulled the aluminum backwards a little bit, and bent it backwards, where the score was.
With a good score, the aluminum just breaks right along the score line.
Poof, aluminum cut.
So, I cut pieces for most of the flooring today. I cut til I ran out of aluminum. The rest of the aluminum in the floor, seems to be ok, so I may not have to replace it.
Even if I do, I won't have to cut but a few more pieces.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/cuttingaluminum2.jpg)
Next for the aluminum, will be to join 2 pieces together, so they fit each opening under the floor, correctly.
Fleetwood joined the aluminum together to form a single piece of aluminum for the bottom of the entire floor. Since I don't have that capability, I will be putting the aluminum in, in a number of pieces, with Por 15 to keep it sealed.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
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Before I get started, I want to explain something.
I realize that some of my posts may at times seem a little elementary, or basic, if you will.
This is not an accident. Most of us have been rving for some time, and learned most of this stuff, many moons ago.
However, not everyone has had that luxury. Since we have no way of knowing who may be reading this, I try to cover a little bit of all bases. There may be some who are reading, that do not, nor have ever owned an rv. Who knows?
So, if some posts seem a little boring, hang in there, the reconstruction is coming, although, not as fast as any of us would like, but it's coming.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, I decided to remove the storage bin that was trying to "make like a pond".
First, I jacked up the rv to allow a little extra room to get under it.
Notice, the bottle jack has plywood under it, and under the support, next to the driveway.
Always use a jack stand, and NEVER depend only on the jack, when working underneath.
You will notice also, the jack stand has plywood under it also, which helps to prevent it sinking into the macadam.
Both of these are underneath the frame of the chassis, for strength.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/jackup.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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This next pic if from underneath next to the chassis frame, towards the inside of the coach, if you will.
The yellow circle is one of the screws that goes into the wood, which sits on top of the aluminum, inside the flooring. Remember the post on the wood just sitting on the aluminum, and not the added angle steel on top of the frame? Yea, they used drywall screws.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storageboxremoval.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Got the storage box out. This is the largest one on this rv.
The one on the other side of the rv, was about 4' long.
Notice the green arrows. They point to where screws were installed along the outside edge, and correspond to the green arrow, next to the coach, and were accessed from the outside, after the door was removed.
The red arrows show where there were a couple of screws holding the box to the steel frame, and accessed from underneath, with corresponding red arrows next to the coach.
The yellow arrows were accessed from underneath and were screwed upwards, most of which were drywall screws.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storageboxremoval1.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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So, after the box was out, I measured it, and the length from the front of the coach, towards the rear, measured about 68".
Upper right, shows the depth from the door opening, towards the inside of the coach, and is about 25".
The lower right, shows the height of the box, which is about 13".
Obviously, since I removed about 25 gal of water, plus some of the stuff I had stored in there, that storage bin will support well over 250 lbs, without a problem.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/storagedimensions.jpg)
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