Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?


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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 09/27/17 08:29am

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BigRabbitMan wrote:

Using a compas to check, will the outside/front corner of the washer clear the far wall when being swung out? If not, it can be on heavy duty drawer slides and slide out then swing.

It will depend on where the pivot point is. It's going to be close as is, but if it doesn't quite clear, as you said, we can slide, then pivot, or figure out a way to make it clear.

It's not rocket science. Just have to figure out which is best or easiest. Maybe even add a second pivot point. Whatever.

It just needs to work it's way out of the shower, and around the corner a little bit, so it's temporarily out of the way.

What could possibly go wrong?????? .... LOL....

If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/27/17 07:55pm

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Just like all those tv ads.... But wait, there's more.....

So, as I was thinking over the details of the shower, the washer, and the pantry, it occurred to me. Why not add some more movable cabinets.

Why not add some overhead cabinets, above the shower, which could then hinged just as easily as the pantry could.

A door on a house, like an entry door, can weigh a couple of hundred pounds, and is held in place by 3 hinges about 4" long. Two of those, or similar hinges should be able to hold a cabinet 36" wide and maybe 12" or so high, that weighs less than 50 lbs when full.

Granted, I don't think that I would want to store my Grandmother's full service set of china up there because of weight. However, lighter items could easily go there, such as paper towels, napkins, paper plates, plastic silverware, plastic glasses or plastic wine glasses with any slightly heavier items, being closer to the hinge. Maybe even aluminum foil, wax paper and so forth.

Hey, why not? If I can move an 8" deep pantry below the counter, why can't I move a 10" - 12" deep cabinet, nearly against the ceiling, as long as it is properly supported? When closed, both ends will be supported, and when open, only one, but it's very temporary.

Since I have this thing torn apart anyhow, why not add some steel tubing, welded to the wall and ceiling to support the cabinet? As long as the cabinet is fairly lightweight, and loaded with lightweight items.

So, that would give us about 3' of overhead cabinet space, plus the additional 3' wide pantry, under the counter, and make the kitchen seem huge, compared to the average rv, right?

What could possibly go wrong?...Lol...

But, seriously, with a little extra effort, that would make a huge difference in the overall feel of the kitchen. The only time those items will be out of place, is during showers, which is minimal, compared to the benefit.

I think it's worth a giving it a good shot.

Below is a pair of drawings that show where the cabinet would be, with and without the shower being used.

[image]

oyvind

San Francisco

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Posted: 09/27/17 09:50pm

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You might have looked at this, but I found 1985-pace-arrow-sales-brochure, which details several different layouts (we have the H27) - if you print these out and cut pieces for the individual items, then this might give you some additional sense of what the end product will look like.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/28/17 06:53am

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oyvind wrote:

Actually, I had not seen that brochure, nor the webpage. Thank you so much for posting it.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/28/17 07:00am

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I was looking through that brochure, and low and behold, I now feel "special".

It appears that I, and others, who purchased a mid 1980's Motor Home, purchased one with "Stateroom" accommodations.

Isn't marketing just wonderful....???? LOL..

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/28/17 07:06am

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One of the brochure pages lists the "construction" of the rv, framing wise.

One thing they did not show, is the extra steel running horizontal about 3" above the bottom of the sidewalls, that was used for fastening the bottom side fiberglass to the wall, with rivets.

[image]

As a reminder, if you want to enlarge the photo .... ctrl + a few times, and ... ctrl 0 will reset your webpage back to normal size.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/28/17 07:21am

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Detail of the roof corner, on the Pace Arrow.

Here is a leak, just waiting to happen. And it does. How any engineer could figure that this would not leak, is beyond me.

The green circle, means a good thing. That side won't leak. There are no exposed fasteners, the clips that hold it on, are inside, and covered.

The red circle, however, is just a ticking time bomb. What is keeping that from leaking, is caulk. NOT good. Many an rv, has a similar ticking time bomb, when the sidewall is connected to the roof.

If the roof was raised slightly, and then the roofing membrane, was run over top of the corner round, and down over the side, just a little... and not fastened with screws through the membrane, poof... no leaks.

I know, it's much easier, faster, cheaper, to build it this way, but it sure is not the greatest thing since sliced bread.

[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/28/17 07:46am

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By the way, in case it sounds like I am being critical, I am not, trying to be. I am just making an observation, based on how the factory built these.

Ya gotta keep a sense of humor, ya know, Jethro?

Jim@HiTek

Gresham, OR, USA

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Posted: 09/28/17 10:47am

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Here's how Winnebago does it on 10's of thousands of RVs. This is the full coverage fiberglass roof setup. The drawing is how they seal the edges, labeled "sealant".

[image]

Problem is the only thing holding that thin sheet of fiberglass roofing is that thin bead of sealant. Which because of the flexing an RV does on the road, peels and falls off. Further flexing of the sidewall and roof can pop the roof out of that channel. A side wind can than get up under the fiberglass and rip the roof off. One of my RV blog readers just let me know he'd lost 40 sq ft of roof because of that. Winnie wants you up there twice a year to inspect and repair that seal. Yeah, right. And most insurance companies won't compensate you if your roof gets ripped off.

What many of us have done is run a 2" wide strip of Eternabond tape along that edge. Gives it extra strength so wind and water can't get under the edge of the roof. Here's a picture of how it looks after installation:

[image]

Now in your case, your roof design is a bit strange as you point out. But I think you could use Eternabond to seal that edge and those screws where the red circle is easily for a permanent and long lasting fix.

[image]

The tape comes in 2" & 4" widths and 50 foot lengths. Once down, it stays down. And there's no maintenance. Works on any type of roof.

I don't recall, is your roof a rubber roof, or fiberglass? What condition is it in? Can you show us a picture please?

Jim@HiTek
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.