fulltimin

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So, are you starting to see where this could lead, in using this stuff in an rv, with wood?
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin

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Ok. Here's a close up of the Por 15 after failure.
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fulltimin

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And here is one of the Titebond 3 after failure.
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fulltimin

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And this one, is just thrown in for good measure. This was not cut from the same plywood piece, but it is plywood, non the less.
I used gorilla glue on this one, and it failed at 390 lbs.
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fulltimin

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So, now that we know how the plywood performs with certain ("adhesives"?), so to speak, let's see how Por 15 will work with a plywood to steel connection.
So, I took one of the pieces of plywood that was used in the titebond 3 test, and used the other end of it for this test.
I then took a piece of 1.5" x 1.5" steel for the other piece.
The plywood, I ran my Ryobi sander over it for a few seconds with 120 grit sanding disk.
The steel, I used my grinder to remove any impurities on the surface. Since Por 15 likes a rougher surface rather than a smooth one, I thought this would be better on the steel than sandpaper.
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fulltimin

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So, after the initial "prep" work was done, I used some lacquer thinner and "washed" both surfaces for a few seconds.
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fulltimin

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And then gave both of them a coating of Por 15..........
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fulltimin

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And now, it's time to "Jed" it. Huh? Clampett... Jed Clampett - the Beverly Hillbillies. ... Some of you are probably too young for them... LOL...
Time to clamp it. Clamp time.....
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/porplysteel4.jpg)
Little humor there... I know .. very little.
Moving on. I have to wait til tomorrow to test this. I am waiting for this to cure.
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fulltimin

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Did not get a chance to test the joint today, (steel, plywood, and Por 15), not the smoking kind.
However, I did finalize a couple of decisions, so we will be getting back to cutting, grinding, welding, etc, shortly.
Looking at the picture, behind the drivers seat, originally, the red box areas did not have any vertical studs in them. I welded in 2 below the window, and have decided to add 2 above the window, indicated by green lines.
That will give me 2 foot centers from the stud indicated by the yellow arrow, which was not there originally.
Since I am not planning on gluing up the whole wall into one piece like the factory did, and then screw it to the floor framing, I want more support in the wall, hence the 2 foot center studs, the entire length of the wall.
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fulltimin

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Now, on to the passenger side. This is the area beside the co-pilot's seat.
The area inside the red rectangle, had no vertical stud running through it. That whole area had two 1/2" pieces of plywood glued in there to make a thickness of 1" to match the wall thickness. That plywood was to support the pull down bed that was up front originally. We are not putting that back in.
The 3 yellow lines indicate areas that were solid horizontal studs originally. I cut short pieces out of there so I could install a new stud from top to bottom, indicated by the green arrow.
On the right bottom side, below the window, inside the blue circle, is a stud as you can see. Interesting that this side had one, and not the other side, as they are directly across from each other.
The reason being is, there was a table on this side, and some structure was needed to fasten it to, without damaging the side wall. There are actually 2 of them there, although only 1 shows up in the pic.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengerside1.jpg)
So, we are going to start working on the passenger wall, and add some studding there and work our way to the rear.
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