oyvind

San Francisco

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I'm fixing up a 27' 1985 Pace Arrow Eleganza, with the exact same floor plan and everything, and have to say that I was super excited when I came across this thread! Knowing how the frame is built, and where/how to reinforce if needed, is pure gold.
We too are looking at alternative floor plans, and seeing how this thing is built really helps build confidence in being able to pull this off with a great result.
Keep up the good work!
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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Joined: 12/14/2003

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Thank you. Glad you are enjoying it, and able to use some of the information.
Have fun with your rebuild.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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fulltimin

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Ok, on to the next test.
I have a couple of pieces of plywood, about 1.625" wide, and a little over 6" long.
I glued these 2 pieces together at a 90 degree angle, with Titebond 3 glue. They were clamped and left together for 24 hours, before removing the clamp.
Why? I wanted to see how much pressure it could take, before the joint blew apart, when I applied pressure from a press.
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fulltimin

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So, here we are in the middle of a test. As you can see, our scale is up to almost 300 lbs on the scale.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/titebond2.jpg)
Lets keep cranking on it. Here we are at 70 lbs past the scale's max 330 lbs. So, that add up to about 400 lbs., and it is still holding.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/titebond3.jpg)
So, I kept adding pressure. I was using a bottle jack, and added an additional 5 pumps to it, and finally it failed.
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fulltimin

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So, here is what the joint looked like after it broke.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/titebond4.jpg)
Notice that the glue held, and it was the glue of the plywood that failed, with the Titebond 3.
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fulltimin

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That gave me a baseline to compare to my next test.
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fulltimin

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And here it comes.
Our next test is using Por 15. I used a tube of their caulk. It is the same stuff as their paint, but just a little thicker. The stuff I used on the aluminum with the wood frame was paint.
So, lets see how this works compared to the Titebond 3.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/por15wood1.jpg)
These pieces of plywood were cut from the same piece as the previous test with Titebond 3.
Ignore the Norton Speed Grip on the right side of this. I had end glued that end to another piece - just for the heck of it.
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fulltimin

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As with the previous test, this was cranked up to about 300 lbs, and the joint was still holding.
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fulltimin

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So, let's keep cranking......
Here we are up to the same max as the Titebond 3. We are 70 lbs past the max of the scale of 330 lbs.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/por15wood3.jpg)
Just as earlier, I keep pumping more pressure with the jack until the joint broke. In this case, I added 6 pumps, instead of 5.
For all intents and purposes, that's about the same to me. I may have pumped with a slightly longer or shorter stroke on one or the other, so I would call it a wash.
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fulltimin

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So, how did this joint compare to the Titebond 3?
Here it is..........
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/por15wood4.jpg)
Basically, we are looking at the same damage. The Por 15 did not fail. The plywood did.
So, our Por 15 has similar strength as the Titebond 3 does. Por 15 is also waterproof, and they claim it seals wood completely, so not moisture can get in or out.
That is where the piece of plywood comes in, that I completely sealed with black Por 15.
We shall see how that holds up after boiling and freezing.
Personally, I was surprised at how well the Por 15 held up, using it as a wood "glue". That opens up some new possibilities for uses with wood in the future, including painting plywood, to make it totally waterproof, if the boiling/freezing test works.
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