fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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All of the window corner frames have these little plastic/nylon/vinyl (whatever) corners screwed into them.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/windowcorner1.jpg)
Another view from a slightly different angle.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/windowcorner2.jpg)
As you saw above, the windows are all rounded in the corners. None of them are square.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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Jim@HiTek
Gresham, OR, USA
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Joined: 07/17/2004
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Ahh, that's how they do that. I was thinking wood, but plastic or even extruded AL is a pretty good method. Looks like it's lasting pretty well. My '02 has rounded edges on the windows too, now I know how they're probably made.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Yea, those pieces have held up well. On all of them that I have either taken out or, just viewed after taking off the inside trim, they all looked in tact.
Here is another view of one on a different window.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/windowcorner.jpg)
My guess is, that these corners have as much to do with the fiberglass not cracking, as it does with the windows. Any time you have a round corner, there is less chance of it cracking than a square corner.
When we had a piece of steel or wood that had a crack in it, we would drill a hole at the end of the crack before repairing it. That would hold up better than just trying to repair the crack.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Another thing to notice in this pic, noted by the red line is, there is an air gap between the window frame and the steel framing of the sidewall.
The red arrows point to air gaps between the steel frame and the plastic/nylon/vinyl corner piece.
No, there was no insulation in those areas.
Couple that with a 1/8th inch piece of plywood on the outside, and a 1/8 inch piece of paneling on the inside, the steel frame of the sidewall, the aluminum of the frame that wraps from the outside of the wall to the inside, and you have a recipe for a wonderfull amount of heat and cold exchange to go on.
And you thought it was just the single pane windows.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/windowcorner3.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Just in case you have never done any welding...... Here's a tip.
They make welding gloves for a reason.
If you don't use them, you end up with this..........Lol...
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/nogloves.jpg)
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/nogloves1.jpg)
And yes, those red sparks hurt..........
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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When welding in new pieces, you need to make sure before you start to weld, that the two pieces are flush. All you need is a straight edge.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/weldingflush.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Here we have a pic of the left side towards the rear. I have new studs welded in.
The new studs are on 2' centers. I considered 16" centers, but, I want to watch the weight on this. This configuration has much more stability than the original setup, without the glued effect of the plywood and insulation.
Yes, that makes 2 windows that have studs in front of them. The window on the right will not be going back in. The one on the left, may or may not. If it does, it will be moved a few inches to miss the studs.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/leftsiderear.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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And now we have the front half of the left side. The window on the left side of this pic, is the same one as the right window in the last pic.
I finally have new studs welded in on the front half as well. I need to put a couple of short ones in, under the window, and, maybe on top of it. The original setup did not have any studs above or below the window.
I may add one at the front, which would be the start of the 2' centers. I don't really need it for strength, but, it would make it nice for plywood and paneling, or whatever we use on the inside walls.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/leftsidefront.jpg)
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Jim@HiTek
Gresham, OR, USA
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Wait a sec...you wear a ring while welding?...that's a safety violation right there. I'll have to write you up for that...
What was the original stud spacing? IF it was 16", recommend you stick with that. Even though it's an older RV, we've had stress testing and computer programs that calculate load factors since the early '80's. So suggest you stick to what those highly trained engineers determined was the best spacing based on testing, expirience and road testing. But as you said, it was missing some critical headers so I guess they really didn't know what they were doing afterall.
And it's your project so...
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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That ring shrank after I put it on my finger........
Here is a pic from earlier in the thread. The picture is pieced together but there were only 3 full length wall studs for the entire wall, not including the crooked one at the rear. That wall depended on gluing the plywood to the blue board insulation for strength.
When I am done, I will have 9 in the same space that Fleetwood had 3 in. I haven't fully decided yet, but I will probably glue the plywood onto the studs and insulation as well.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/notsofast6.jpg)
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