fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
Bought some stainless steel bolts, (3/8" x 2.5" carriage bolts), along with elastic nuts, and washers, also stainless steel. So, we can add another $40.18 for our grand total so far of.....(drum roll)....$465.40.
I plan to replace the carriage bolts that are holding the floor framing to the chassis frame. Since they don't look very good, I thought this time I would use stainless instead.
Also will need some to hold up the steps to the new frame I welded up for them.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/ssnutsboltswashers.jpg)
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
Getting ready to install the lower wall rail that was rusty, some of which was completely gone.
It sure is nice to have some extra hands, (yellow circles - wood working clamps) to help hold things nearly in place.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/helpinghands.jpg)
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
Getting the side wall base installed. This 1" x 1.5" piece of steel runs the length of the rv, from the front cap all the way to the rear cap. I have about 2/3 of it cut out, and have welded a new piece in.
In this pic, you can see both the 1.5" x 1.5" floor framing, indicated by a yellow line. The red line indicates the 1" x 1.5" wall framing, that when originally build, was bolted to the floor framing.
As you can see in this picture, it is not getting bolted back in place, but is being welded in place.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sidewallbase.jpg)
In this next pic, you can see that I have welded in 4 new wall studs, running from the top to the bottom. Yay!!!!!!
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/newwallstuds.jpg)
|
femailyetti
South of Disney World
Senior Member
Joined: 06/15/2016
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
Do I see a window hole where a wall brace is? Are you taking a window out, as there is no frame for it and there are for the others?
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
This next pic is a shot of the top of the stud being welded in. The stud is very close to the outside fiberglass siding. Fortunately, there is a 1/8" piece of plywood between the fiberglass and the steel stud.
So, I stuck a scraper in between to protect the fiberglass from the welding heat.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/weldingstudtop.jpg)
In the next pic, you can see, that there is barely 1/8" between the scraper and the fiberglass, with the plywood in between. The yellow arrow points to the plywood, and the red arrow points to the scraper.
Fortunately, it worked. It kept enough heat away from the fiberglass, that it didn't melt. At this point the stud was only tack welded, and I finished the weld after this photo was taken.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/weldingstudtop1.jpg)
|
|
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
femailyetti wrote:Do I see a window hole where a wall brace is? Are you taking a window out, as there is no frame for it and there are for the others?
That is correct. It is currently covered with plastic to keep any rain out. That window is history.
That was the window over top of the original sink, and that is not where the sink is going back in, so that window is not needed.
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
Today's pics are of the left front corner, flooring/bottom wall section, behind the drivers seat.
In this first pic, there is a yellow arrow pointing to the bottom piece of the wall section that needed to be replaced. I originally thought that piece ran from the rear cap all the way to the front cap, in one piece.
Turns out, it does not. The red arrow points to a vertical stud, right at the back of the drivers door, and the piece with the yellow arrow stops at the bottom of the stud with the red arrow.
The green arrow points to the floor framing, which is the 1.5" x 1.5" steel. Even though it looks a little rough, the steel is actually in pretty good shape. The reason it looks a little rough, is that there is glue on the steel, that the factory glued in the blue board insulation.
The blue arrow points to a stud, that needs to be replaced, also.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/leftfrontcorner.jpg)
Here is a slightly larger version of the above picture. If you need them larger to see, remember, ctrl + will enlarge it, and ctrl 0 will reset it to normal size.
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/leftfrontcorner1.jpg)
So, now I have a few studs to replace in this front section, and then I can finish the rear section, which needs a couple of feet of the floor framing replaced. Yay!!!!
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
No new pics from the motor home today.
I did however, get this from a restaurant a couple of months ago.
Thought you might like it......
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/smartestdumbest.jpg)
Hope to have more motor home pics tomorrow.
|
Bruce Brown
Northern NY
Moderator
Joined: 06/01/2001
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
So true!
Keep the rehab pictures coming.
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910
|
fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
I did get a chance to work on the motor home today. Was a little warm, in the upper 80's.
When I finished up for the day, I came inside, and my wife would not allow me to come to the table to eat until I cleaned up...
Can u imagine????
![[image]](http://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/table.jpg)
|
|
|
