tobydad
MA
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Check the Ford's owner manual for maintenance intervals and follow that, unless you just like to spend money. Do check brake lines and tires. Check frequently that all fluids are at the correct levels.
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samven1
Hedgesville, WV usa
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Joined: 07/17/2003
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I will chime in with the same advise, change them all. Brake fluid will attract moisture with time not miles, additive packs in trans oil will deplete if it does not get up to operating temp every so often. Some fluids will actually last longer with use than with setting because heat dries them out and mixes them up.
Sam
03 Dodge Ram 1500 QC LB Hemi
2015 Four Winds 22E Chevy
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ppine
Northern Nevada
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You are on the right track. I would leave the brake fluid and change everything else.
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klutchdust
Orange, California
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Joined: 06/09/2004
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BigCanoe wrote:Oh ya, forgot power steering fluid.
Explain why the power steering fluid needs to be changed. Also I have had vehicles, both with over 250K on them that never had the brake fluid changed. They pulled trailers from time to time. Coolant goes to 100K now so why bother? I am a maintenance guy but some of this sounds unnecessary.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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When I can, I'll try to find the 2008 Owner's Manual. In the meanwhile, remember that the Owner Manual doesn't "Morph" into the latest recommendations. Simple example is that engine oil with a service index printed in your model year might not even be for sale any longer. The example I'm thinking of is Rear Axle Lube. Our manual says Dino Oil for the rear but the current thinking is Full Synthetic. And, Dino had a service interval, while Full Syn is "permanent" unless the axle gets submerged in water. WalMart has SuperTech Full Syn for about $11 a bottle, a very good price for that. Just be sure it's not the Dino or Blend they also sell.
Brake Fluid is a Must Change, with the premium DOT3 (I think it's stil 3, not 4 which is different).
Power Steering Fluid...? Two points:
1. It's starting to come into view because a company called "BG" has come up with ways to Flush Everything Automotive. They sell mechanics and the mechanics sell us. That said, We run vehicles longer than we used to, and the fluid DOES get contaminated. Especially on Rack and Pinion systems. Aluminum parts instead of Steel. I replaced the Rack in a Buick with 120,000 and later the Pump. The Pump was FULL of Grit and Grime, not good lubrication for itself or the Rack. The Rack wasn't leaking but it'd jam in a turn and not want to return to Center.
2. E450's (and others) use HydroBoost braking. Instead of Vacuum, HB uses hydraulic pressure from the Power Steering Pump as its power source. This produces Several Times more brake apply pressure than vacuum brakes. This means there is a Steering Fluid-to-Brake Fluid intersection in the HB unit. We need to do everything we can to keep sour brake fluid OR sour steering fluid from damaging the seals!!! If those fluids get to mixing, it's an unholy mess.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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BigCanoe
Moncure, NC, USA 27559
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klutchdust wrote:BigCanoe wrote:Oh ya, forgot power steering fluid.
Explain why the power steering fluid needs to be changed. Also I have had vehicles, both with over 250K on them that never had the brake fluid changed. They pulled trailers from time to time. Coolant goes to 100K now so why bother? I am a maintenance guy but some of this sounds unnecessary.
Its just what "Google" suggested I do, to be honest. I will probably check with the dealership I purchased from and a friend of a friend who owns a truck maintenance company as well before sinking in any more cash than what is obvious that needs doing.
2008 Winnebago Outlook 31C
2013 Honda Fit 5-speed
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Bordercollie
Garden Grove, CA, USA
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Check the house box converter charger and house battery(s)including cleaning of all battery connectors, electrolyte levels and DC voltage. With rig on shore power, voltage should be around 13.6 volts, with engine or generator running around 14 volts, disconnected from shore power for some time etc., voltage should be around 12.6 volts. It is good to have battery load tested if it is not fairly new, for reliable power. Older converter chargers can overcharge batteries and boil off electrolyte. Might want to consider updating converter charger. Check fridge for proper cooling in electric, propane and auto modes.
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BigCanoe
Moncure, NC, USA 27559
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I do have a multimeter, where do I check the voltage?
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Bordercollie
Garden Grove, CA, USA
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Check the house box converter charger and house battery(s)including cleaning of all battery connectors, electrolyte levels and DC voltage. With rig on shore power, voltage should be around 13.6 volts, with engine or generator running around 14 volts, disconnected from shore power for some time etc., voltage should be around 12.6 volts. It is good to have battery load tested if it is not fairly new, for reliable power. Older converter chargers can overcharge batteries and boil off electrolyte. Might want to consider updating converter charger if old type. Check fridge for proper cooling in electric, propane and auto modes. Run generator, let it warm up and run roof AC with microwave same time to test proper operation. Set up awning, inspect, and stow it carefully. Might want to install awning lock device to prevent accidental unfurling while underway. Make sure tires are not older than 5 years old by date codes and with no sidewall cracking. If you hear any steady thumping while driving, check tires for lumps where tread is separating. Watch for any pulling of front brakes, change front brake flex lines if not newish when having brake fluid flushed and replaced and brake system serviced as needed.
Tires and brakes are very important in RV's for safe driving.
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ppine
Northern Nevada
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Everything you can think of. The obscure ones may have never been changed.
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