Chris Bryant

Arden, North Carolina

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Joined: 03/26/2003

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Sorry for the delay in response-a bit of info: There are 2 kinds of start kits- the standard are time based using a PTCR device. This device conducts power unti it gets hot, and it gets hot in a fraction of a second, so it keeps the start capacitor in the circuit for a set amount of time. This works fine most of the time, and would probably be fine for you. This type is the Supco SPP6, the Dometic 3310727.015 and 3311883.000- the difference in the Dometic parts are the 3311883.000 uses a slightly better quality PTCR.
The problem with the time based start kits is that running on a marginal genset, when the compressor kicks in, the genset bogs a bit, and the PTCR will kick the start capacitor out of the circuit before the genset can recover. The second type of star kit gets around that problem- they use a relay which senses the speed of the compressor, keeping the start capacitor in the circuit until the compressor is actually running at ~75% of full speed. The Dometic 3102903.006
is this type, and while the time mbased would *probably* work, this is the best option.
Note- I used to recommend the Supco SPP6E, but they used to be rated for 120 volt units. I have always had great luck with these, but they now say they are not rated for the 120 volt units. Not sure if the unit has changed, or if it is a cya move.
-- Chris Bryant
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Cloud Dancer

San Antonio and Livingston TX USA

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Joined: 06/08/2001

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Speaking from experience, RV manufacturers do NOT admit their design faults.
Willie & Betty Sue
Miko & Sparky
2003 41 ft Dutch Star Diesel Pusher/Spartan
Floorplan 4010
Blazer toad & Ranger bassboat
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bill-e

NH

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Joined: 06/25/2008

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I went with the $10 Supco hard start cap when I had a Yammy 2400 and 13.5 AC...worked like a champ.
One power draw that many folks forget about is the converter/charger in your camper. When you first give the camper AC power, whether shore or gen, the charger is going to draw a significant load as it recharges the battery...especially if you have powered slides, jacks etc. I've seen 10 amps just from it. Wait a bit until that's complete and you should have no issue. with a hard start cap.
Thanks,
Bill
'15 Keystone Cougar 26RBI and '15 RAM 1500 Ecodiesel
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2oldman

NM

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Joined: 04/15/2001

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I would imagine that one genny is going to be working pretty hard. Any chance you can spring for another and parallel them? Problem solved, less noise, run MW even with a/c on.drmopar wrote: Does the Generator produce Sine wave or square wave?
It's an inverter generator. Easy to look up specs.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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To tech issues. Technology is for internet, wifi, mapping software and the like.
Micro1706 wrote: where has it been moved to?
thx
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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SoundGuy

S Ontario

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Joined: 02/11/2015

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Micro1706 wrote: I am still trying to find out from Winnebago which exact model of Brisk Air they have in our tt. The manual covers about 10 models, so not sure at this time, but I know it is the 13,500 btu size.
Little doubt it would be a Dometic Brisk II which replaced the previous but now discontinued BriskAir. A Supco SPP6 hard start cap works just fine with my own Brisk II. 4 pics start here.
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Micro1706

Sandpoint, Idaho

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Joined: 07/14/2016

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Good Sam RV Club Member
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where has it been moved to?
thx
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MrWizard

Traveling

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moved from Technology
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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three options
A. hard start capacitor
B. hard start capacitor and relay to delay compressor starting
C. soft start (much money)
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Micro1706

Sandpoint, Idaho

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Joined: 07/14/2016

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I've read postings from folks who have added the dometic, duo-therm, or supco start kit and found it got the compressor started without a problem running same size genny or even smaller (honda 2000). I am definitely thinking of ordering one to give it a try; just trying to figure out which has been fielded tested as being the most appropriate.
I have a feeling from some prior insight from Chris Bryant mentions Duotherm as being a stronger option.
cheers
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