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Micro1706
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Questioning whether the installation actually was done correctly...
Mitigating the initial happiness of the a/c actually turning on, upon further use I notice the results do not seem as strong as the ones mentioned by other folks, in this and other websites.
The A/c starts...but it also seems to brown out everything else.
I noticed that when the microwave is plugged in (not actually cooking or in use), when the A/C's compressor kicks on, the time display blanks out (goes dark), there is a tiny beep, and then it comes back on.
I am hoping Chris Bryant will also comment.
Is this to be expected?
I might climb up there and take the plastic cowling off and try to get a photo of the installation. Not sure that's in my pay grade, but perhaps...
cheers
* This post was
edited 08/05/16 10:06am by Micro1706 *
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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This stuff gets confusing. Part of the confusion is terminology. In an RV a/c, both the fan and the compressor require a RUN capacitor. One each, but they may be separate or two sections of a combined capacitor. Usually in a metal "can" but some are enclosed in plastic. Fan and compressor will not start without those RUN capacitors. By without I mean either missing or defective. But the fact that a RUN capacitor allows a fan or compressor to start does not make that RUN capacitor a START capacitor.
As OP found out, a START capacitor piggybacks onto the compressor RUN capacitor. It's an addition, nothing gets removed. But the START capacitor does get removed, electrically, once the compressor gets up to speed. Think of cranking your car. You take the Key out of Start and leave it in RUN once the engine has started. So there's a START capacitor that's cylindrical plastic with a retaining ring at the top holding it together. The "Key" that takes it out of circuit is a PTCR, a Relay, or some form of Electronics. START capacitor and PTCR connect in series, one after the other, and one PTCR terminal goes to one compressor RUN capacitor terminal. Other PTCR terminal goes to one terminal of START capacitor. Other START capacitor terminal goes to the other RUN capacitor terminal. SPP6/SPP6e have the PTCR or Electronics factory-attached to that START capacitor, so it's just two wires, and they go to the two compressor RUN capacitor terminals. Either way, no Polarity involved.
The Relay type START kits, and some Electronic ones, may have another wire. You have to follow the a/c wiring diagram if it's OEM, or the supplier's diagram if it's an aftermarket item.
Just remember: At least TWO RUN capacitors. One or two physical items. If there's a Third capacitor it's RUN, compressor only, across compressor terminals on its RUN capacitor, has to have PTCR or some other disconnect-after-start device.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
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Micro1706
Sandpoint, Idaho
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IT WORKED ! ! ! ! ! !
Fantastic! Got the Duotherm hsk, as per Chris Bryant. Arrived yesterday, and got it installed today. Apparently the installer said something about both of them staying in. I thought the original gets swapped out, but I guess the new one gets put in-line for a lack of a more technologically appropriate description.
The folks who did it (auto a/c certified) big bays shop, said at first they also thought the old one gets pulled, but apparently this is not the case. There was nothing actually removed.
I hope this is the right way to do the install...if anyone knows better please advise.
Tried the a/c from shorepower, ran fine.
Turned off, waited a couple 10mins, then started her up with the genny (yamaha 2400iSHC), and it started.
It is not as hot as it has been and later in the day (6pm pacific).
Will try tomorrow around 2 pm, after it has been in the sun for a while. Will open her up, run the fan a bit to get some of the heat out, then try to start her up. Fingers crossed.
All the same, many thanks to all the help!
We appreciate the kindness of sharing your help!
cheers
Bob
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Chris Bryant
Arden, North Carolina
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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stevenal wrote:According to the spec sheet, it uses an 88-106 uF cap; same as the 6E.
That should work fine, even though they don't rate it for that large a compressor. The last one I had my hands on was 43-52 uf.
It's tough to figure Supco specs though, as they change often. See http://www.supco.com/eclass.htm - the table, which gives different voltages, as well as the last one I installed-
![[image]](http://bryantrv.com/images/temp/spp6e.jpg)
Note the voltages.
All of that said, if it really is 88-108uf it should work quite well.
-- Chris Bryant
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stevenal
Newport, OR, USA
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According to the spec sheet, it uses an 88-106 uF cap; same as the 6E.
'18 Bigfoot 1500
Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4
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Chris Bryant
Arden, North Carolina
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stevenal wrote:Chris,
What do you think of the SPP4E? 90-130V, up to 1 HP.
The problem I have with the 4E is the capacitor is, IMHO, too small- I think it needs to be an 88-108 uf. The problem is outside RV use, 120 volt compressors of that size are rare- normally anything over ~10k btu is 240 volt, and the smaller compressors cannot take the increased current the 88-108 would dump.
Micro1706 wrote:As an aside, what about the option of also adding a fan delay relay?
I'm afraid that would be very non-trivial on the BriskAir II, as the thermostat s are now all digital, so a simple low voltage delay is not usable.
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Micro1706
Sandpoint, Idaho
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As an aside, what about the option of also adding a fan delay relay? And what exactly is a fan delay relay and how does one go about find the right one matched to the Dometic Brisk Air II?
Sorry if I'm asking about such basic stuff, and thanks all the same for the patience and insight.
If anyone can point me in the right direction, many thanks.
Cheers
Bob
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stevenal
Newport, OR, USA
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Chris,
What do you think of the SPP4E? 90-130V, up to 1 HP.
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bill-e
NH
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Not only were the directions in the kit perfectly accurate, but when I pulled the AC cover off the schematics actually showed the optional capacitor hooked up surrounded by a dotted line box to indicate that it was optional. Pretty difficult to screw up the install IMO No tools except what you need to take off the cover.
Thanks,
Bill
'15 Keystone Cougar 26RBI and '15 RAM 1500 Ecodiesel
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Micro1706
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Hi Chris
Thank you so much for taking the time to further explain this. We felt this was the case. We had read and re-read your previous post regarding this subject, and finally felt we should order the Duo Therm model you mention. It should be arriving in the next day.
As for installation, I have determined that indeed the a/c model on this tt is a Brisk Air II.
A friend who is an electrician has agreed to go up on the roof and do the install. He is not a "certified a/c tech" so I am just wondering if it is ok to have him do the install? From what I have read from other folks who were faced with the same issue and installed either the dometic or supco hsk, it seems the install is pretty straightforward.
Any advice or suggestions for the install would be greatly appreciated. I have seen the pdf from d.therm with install instructions, and I am hoping the connections mentioned are applicable to what is evident on the BA II.
Thanks again for all your time and consideration in helping us understand this.
All the best
Bob
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