interior repairs. Aircraft Spruce, the supplier I'm using, offers
2420 alloy in Alclad finish, in two different versions: 2420T3
and. 2420-0. Either of these ring a bell? One preferable to the
other?
Thanks for your help.
Dick
sabconsulting wrote:
A smaller version:
![[image]](http://www.sabconsulting.webspace.virginmedia.com/images/cotswolds2013/20130823a1.JPG)
Steve.
A smaller version:
Steve.
Steve, this is what I am planning to use.
Just trying to work out storage with a family of 6...
We already bring a 10x10 screened tent to BBQ outside in the Alaskan bugs, so we trie to travel as light as possible...
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
Also thinking about weep holes to allow any water that gets in a way out... Even though I will have no wood in the rig except cabinet doors and trim, I fully expect that there will be some water intrusion.
I know Airstream had weep holes on some models. On the principle that water will flow downhill, how about some provision for it to get out beneath the floor? A couple of small screened weep holes? Your thoughts?
Thanks
Dick
If you are going to paint the interior I would say save the money and use a cheaper aluminum than 2024. If you want to polish then the alclad will be helpful.
Airparts also sells aluminum as well.
I originally got that alloy number from the Airstream forum as the aluminum used in all their trailers, so I assume it's a good choice for an Avion. Do you know offhand if that's what Avion used?
I'm going to take out all the vinyl coated liner panels and replace them with mill finish aluminum. I'm thinking to do a fan shaped detail at either end of the rig inside. I think a softer alloy is probably better for such use.
Thanks for the info.
Dick
Won't hurt to use 2024 though. 3003 is 4.00 cheaper a linear foot than 2024. Not saying 3003 is the way to go, just illustrating its a big savings.
I'll do some homework on properties. I don't plan to polish the inside, just leave it mill finish. But improved handling would be good for creating the fan effect at the ends.
BTW, Aircraft Spruce appears to be cheaper than Aircraft. And they're in California.
Thanks for the info.
Dick
![[image]](http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/D1trout/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Dicks%20MacBook%20Air/iPhoto%20Library/IMG_0675_zps3f79ac42.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/D1trout/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Dicks%20MacBook%20Air/iPhoto%20Library/d16d85ed-2903-445d-a601-7ccb066d971f_zps3b20ad1f.jpg.html)
We intended to fit the frame into the shell and take a pattern for the cabover frame, but the rains came back and we're on hold for a day or two. The critical issue will be if the curved extrusion at the bottom of the shell's sides fits against the frame in a way that allows a good mechanical joint to be made there; ie. good purchase for the Olympic rivets. Assuming it does, we'll make up the cabover frame, weld it to the top of the bulkhead, and then begin fastening the shell onto the new frame. We have discovered (perhaps not surprisingly, in retrospect) that the shell is not perfectly symmetrical. The sides flex and can be moved about to accommodate different dimensions. This is both good and a wee bit unsettling when striving for accuracy in the fitting... More will be revealed!
My thought now is that once the shell and the frame are back together, I'll remove the inner skin, the insulation and the wiring and start fresh. Mill finish aluminum seems a good interior skin choice. I think it was Dodgeavion who spoke of using a wire brush on a drill to remove insulation. Any other ideas?
I'm thinking I might paint the inside of the outer shell with an elastomeric roofing paint before refoaming, just as an additional line of water defense. Also, I'd like to eliminate all roof penetrations. I can do without the heater vent by using a catalytic
or blue flame unit. Does a little plumbing system with one kitchen sink and a gray water tank for a shower need a vent? Any thoughts? No heat or plumbing vent pipe means an extra 4" of space inside by eliminating the double wall between the bath and the main cabin.
onward!
Dick
Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
That is very impressive. Great work that will lead to a classic Avion restoration. Glad that the drought has broken - or rather that some rain is falling.
On the venting, I don't think you can get away without some venting for your water system. However, it may be that I didn't follow your plans closely enough. I always depend on others such at Ticki, Garry and 69 to weigh in on these sorts of things. As far as the interior finishing, it seems like you are truly going all the way. Cayo has taken things down all the way, as I recall. he may have some ideas as well. For sure you can design your electrical system any way you want. I have power going into all three roof vent areas, down lights under the cabinets, as well as power for electronic devices, charging stations etc. Lastly, the water system should be changed over to Pex. I think I'm OK after this past winter, but only half of the system is PEX, so I'm a little concerned until we thaw out.
