Not dealing with the bathroom till I get it back on the truck, though.
NJAvion wrote:
Garry did you use FRP for the bathroom too? My plan is to flex FRP panels around the curve and basically build a new watertight surround for the toilet by covering the seams between FRP panels with strips of Bondo fiberglass mesh.
Not dealing with the bathroom till I get it back on the truck, though.
Garry did you use FRP for the bathroom too? My plan is to flex FRP panels around the curve and basically build a new watertight surround for the toilet by covering the seams between FRP panels with strips of Bondo fiberglass mesh.
Not dealing with the bathroom till I get it back on the truck, though.
My C10 is early enough, that it is just painted aluminum on the external walls. I still haven't done anything for the inside walls. It will either be FRP or aluminum.
Good luck,
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
I sure wish that we had a better method of searching the archive of this thread. For instance, the question about the circular vent in the rear of the coach. I wrote about installing a back up light and I think that others did as well. I also posted images of the mod.
I have cautioned others before, but I think that the question of the jack supports is very important. We built jack supports that extended well under the wings, that were larger than the original, and that were somewhat offset from where they had damaged the wood. I think that Ticki, as usual, points out a critical concern with the weight from a cantilever. You can see our efforts earlier in this string.
NJavion mentioned mods he's planning for the bathroom. I'm assuming that he has checked out the whole drainage/toilet/blackwater/grey water system. If you've had water damage elsewhere, the odds are that you will have even more in that area. Moreover, the redesign of the toilet/water-waste storage will affect everything upstream, including the placement of pipes in the cabinets.
Finally, make absolutely sure that the electrical system is hunky dory before things are sealed up. Don't ask me how I know.
You're doing great work and the commenters on this thread such as Garry, 69avion, 69cayo,ticki2 are superb (hope I didn't leave anyone out). This is what makes the potential of the internet so exciting...that we can gather from all over the country, with varying levels of interest and skills....and pursue projects like this. Everyone knows how difficult it is to maintain your enthusiasm and determination as you work with 50+ year old TCs. We also know how satisfying the results can be.
Keep on trucking.
D
* This post was edited 07/14/13 11:23am by 67avion *
It's an imperfect forum but I've been telling people how cool it is to find a handful of people who know exactly what I'm taking about when I mention the details of this strange old contraption. This is what the internet was made for!
I'm gonna keep an eye on those jack irons, and if anything starts to flex strangely I'll rethink. Found a great little steel cutting/welding shop in town that can help down the road.
NJAvion wrote:
- I got some Parbond that I plan to run along most of the tight seams between panels. How did you guys deal with the hardened silvery remnants of the original rubber-tape seal? Looks like I can't remove them except with a metal scraper, and I'm wondering if it's better to just leave em and run the Parbond over the top.
- How about for the big gaps, for example those corners where the front wall comes around the angle to meet the cabover (little triangle-shaped gaps)? There was water damage here before and PO's answer was silicone. Lots of silicone. Once I get that stuff out, how should I feel the big spaces? TremPro? Butyl rubber caulk? Ideas please.
- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced.
- I got some Parbond that I plan to run along most of the tight seams between panels. How did you guys deal with the hardened silvery remnants of the original rubber-tape seal? Looks like I can't remove them except with a metal scraper, and I'm wondering if it's better to just leave em and run the Parbond over the top.
- How about for the big gaps, for example those corners where the front wall comes around the angle to meet the cabover (little triangle-shaped gaps)? There was water damage here before and PO's answer was silicone. Lots of silicone. Once I get that stuff out, how should I feel the big spaces? TremPro? Butyl rubber caulk? Ideas please.
- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced.
I would not use a metal scraper on the old caulk , it will scratch through the anodizing , and yes it should come off , especially if it is silicone . I used some cheap ice cream bar sticks from a crafts store . Two seconds on a grinding wheel and you have a nice chisel .
The top weatherstripping that slides in the groove you can get at Vintage trailer supply , the intermediate ones I don't know . When you cut them make sure they are long enough to cover the full width of the frame , they will tend to shrink .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
http://www.adventurerv.net/norcold-refrigerator-freezer-1224v-dc0788s-p-29895.html?utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle&gclid=CInc5uevrbgCFenm7AodjC8AAw
rfuerst911sc wrote:
I still haven't figured out how to post pics, if I figure it out I'll start posting.
I still haven't figured out how to post pics, if I figure it out I'll start posting.
Pix are hard until you figure them out, then they are easy. Like a lot of stuff, I suppose.
1) First process your image to no more than 640 pixels wide (for a horizontal) or 480 pixels (for a vertical) - This is the part where you make the image the size that you want in terms of vertical and horizontal, dodge, burn etc.
2) Then ready them for web posting by choosing a relatively low optimization in jpg. Then "save for web" at 72 dpi.
3) OK, you have your pix, they are saved where you know they are located. They are the right size
4) Now choose a service to hold the images. I use Photobucket - http://photobucket.com/
5) Go up to photobucket and join the service. Once you have joined, navigate to your page. You will see the word "upload" on the navigation bar at the top. Click on that. It will open to a page that says "Drag n' Drop photos and videos here". So, you upload your images.
6) Now you have the rv.net page open where you are going to put the pictures (need to have two screens open on your computer).
7) You take your cursor and click on "img" under the picture on Photobucket that you want to place on the RV.Net page. It will automatically copy the img code. Then you click on the RV.Net screen and paste:
![[image]](http://s739.photobucket.com/user/dgorton/media/cabinets1.jpg.html)
Anyhow, I hope that it works for you in posting images. I think that it is a real aid to people in both understanding what you are asking about or demonstrating, and it has a way of clarifying the ideas that you are trying to share. You can really see this with a master like the Great Whazoo in his trip reports where the images are mixed with text.