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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: garryk6 on 07/12/13 07:50pm

garryk6 wrote:

Well as promised, I finally have some more pics...

Here are my LED tail and clearance lights
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Here is the new Charger/Converter
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Here is the new water fill
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Here is more of the new Reflectix insulation inside the kitchen cabinets
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Here is the kitchen sink drain piping arrangement.
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ANd here is the new Toilet all mounted and ready for use.
Unfortunately the new shower pan has yet to be built,
so that will have to be for another day...
Besides still need a hot water heater for a shower ;-)
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More to follow...

But that is all I took last night...

Garry


Found my old post showing my power converter newly installed. Boondocker 45 amp.

Hope this helps others!


Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper



Posted By: Jamm3r on 07/12/13 09:05pm

NJAvion wrote:


- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced.


I was unable to get the weatherstripping I needed from Vintage Trailer Supply and instead got it from http://www.all-rite.com/ - there are two kinds you need, one for the top of the window, and one for the bottom. I can look up specific parts if you can't find a match.


1971 Cayo C-11 truck camper, 2010 Airstream Classic, 1997 Chevrolet K2500, 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 8.1.



Posted By: 69cayo on 07/12/13 09:36pm

I think C11 got the weatherstripping here.........
http://www.interstatemetals.com/cat_windows2.htm

Dennis


Posted By: garryk6 on 07/12/13 09:37pm

Jamm3r wrote:

NJAvion wrote:


- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced.


I was unable to get the weatherstripping I needed from Vintage Trailer Supply and instead got it from http://www.all-rite.com/ - there are two kinds you need, one for the top of the window, and one for the bottom. I can look up specific parts if you can't find a match.


Hey Jamm3r,
Just to make sure we are talking apples and apples, the users question was concerning C10 Jalousie windows. Are you talking about C10 Jalousie windows? Or are you talking about C11 plexiglass/tinted windows? Just checking, and thanks for the info!
Garry in AK


Posted By: rfuerst911sc on 07/13/13 04:11am

garryk6 wrote:

JoeChiOhki wrote:

Wow, I'd never thought to use a slip flipping to connect the fresh water tank to a fill point.... I just ended up using a combination of PVC and Poly pipe to route mine the last time I had to rebuild it.

Have you given it the hose test yet to see if a low amount of pressure will cause it to leak around that fitting?


Joe, I found this old post and realized I never replied. The slip fitting did not leak, and wored great!

Thanks
Garry

I did not realize the Atwood was not a progressive charger that is good info. So I should be looking for a charger that " cuts back " the output as the batteries come closer to full charge correct ? I guess a trickle charge mode ?


Posted By: ticki2 on 07/13/13 04:55am

NJAvion wrote:


Then repainted and reattached two steel trusses that a PO had built for jack support. They're extremely heavy (around 65 lbs each) but .


It looks like you are off to a good start . Two things caught my eye with your jack supports . While the continuous angle offers good longitudinal support it's 3-4" width doesn't offer much lateral support against the twisting torque of the offset jacks . The original jack support angles although not continuous were almost a foot deep from outer edge towards the tub . The other point was if you used any non-metallic barrier between the steel angle and the aluminum skin . If not it will corrode in short order . I have used a product called Ice Shield , that is used under roof shingles , with success .

* This post was edited 07/13/13 05:07am by ticki2 *


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed


Posted By: ticki2 on 07/13/13 05:15am

rfuerst911sc wrote:


I did not realize the Atwood was not a progressive charger that is good info. So I should be looking for a charger that " cuts back " the output as the batteries come closer to full charge correct ? I guess a trickle charge mode ?


What you are looking for is a 3 stage charger/converter with possibly an inverter . This place has some good choices .http://www.bestconverter.com/


Posted By: rfuerst911sc on 07/13/13 05:50am

ticki2 after a few cups of coffee I finally woke up this morning and went on the best converter and got smart. I now know what to look for. Has anyone installed solar panels on their Avion TC ? I am seriously thinking about doing so. I'm trying to get smart on this also. I think solar could be installed two ways. One would be on the flat portion of the roof mounted with the 4 ' length of the solar panel running east/west. On my C11 I could install four panels in this configuration. One in the back by the door, one in front of the rear roof vent, one behind the roof AC and one in front of the roof AC. The downside would be shading on the panels from the roof vent covers and AC but if you mounted 400 watts of panels I think the shade loss could be tolerated. The other way to mount the panels would be north/south along the sides of the roof vents and AC. Less shading from the roof mounted items but now one side would be away from the sun during certain portions of the day. I was just on Amazon and they have a made in the USA 400 watt system with controller and roof mounts for 759.00. Also a 300 watt for 509.00. Yes they may not be the " perfect " systems but for those prices it is worth the gamble in my opinion. My thoughts are a 400 watt system with shading still has to give 200 - 250 watts of output don't you think ? While I have the interior torn out I want to do all wiring for solar, TV , satellite etc. so it's all done one time. And finally how the heck do you attach pics on this forum ?

* This post was edited 07/13/13 06:49am by rfuerst911sc *


Posted By: NJAvion on 07/13/13 06:37am

Ticki2 - thanks for the words of caution.

I decided to give the old trusses a shot for a couple reasons. One, with most of the wings being foam in the past, the flat plates made a lot more sense. Two, at that time the plates were connected with solid wood that was screwed tightly into the frame at those points.

Since I now have solid wood all across, and it's tightly wedged into the frame lip but not screwed at any particular point, I figured it was best to spread the weight as close to the frame as possible. This way the jacks are not torquinig the entire wings, so much as the 1-2" from the truss to the frame lip.

But I am not an engineer and it may all fall apart spectacularly.

I used truckbed liner on the trusses but that roofing stuff does look good. Off they come again, I guess...


Posted By: ticki2 on 07/13/13 07:00am

NJAvion wrote:

Ticki2 - thanks for the words of caution.

I decided to give the old trusses a shot for a couple reasons. One, with most of the wings being foam in the past, the flat plates made a lot more sense. Two, at that time the plates were connected with solid wood that was screwed tightly into the frame at those points.

Since I now have solid wood all across, and it's tightly wedged into the frame lip but not screwed at any particular point, I figured it was best to spread the weight as close to the frame as possible. This way the jacks are not torquinig the entire wings, so much as the 1-2" from the truss to the frame lip.

But I am not an engineer and it may all fall apart spectacularly.

I used truckbed liner on the trusses but that roofing stuff does look good. Off they come again, I guess...



I don't think it will fall apart with the trusses as is , just something to keep an eye on . There is a lot of strain on that angle iron with the jacks being offset .

The bed liner should work fine . Keep up the good work .


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