Garry, it was great to finally see your rig out in the sunshine, after seeing all those shots of it snowed in!
The first thing I had to deal with in my camper was the wings. Water had come in around the curve-corners at the base of the cabover, and up through various holes for jacks. The electrical cabinet was sitting on pure mush, and there was a mouse nest under the kitchen drawers.
Didn't take any pictures of the removal because I was too busy hacking and vacuuming up the rotten wood, down to bare aluminum. Could basically vacuum out the entire right wing. The 1" wood strips around the edges took a little prying.
Cut out the aluminum leaving a 1" border on the inside that I could overlap with the new. Got a sheet of 5052 non-anodized which is the best replacement I could find locally for the original 5005 anodized. Much easier to cut with a jigsaw, and you won't notice the difference with it on the underside.
Basically, laid that down with butyl-rubber tape seams over the edges of the curved lip/old aluminum. Had to Dremel out the legions of screws that were sticking down from inside the shell, as I didn't feel like removing the panels. Wedged in three layers of 1/2" CDX plywood, cut to fit the curve and stagger out a bit into the retaining lip. It was a rough sweaty process but here is the result:
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/bj8EQ6N.jpg)
Then repainted and reattached two steel trusses that a PO had built for jack support. They're extremely heavy (around 65 lbs each) but seem to spread the weight along the whole wing so I opted to keep them.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/IsStue8.jpg)
View from inside:
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/JYLX2rV.jpg)
I also started to build out my interior from the space around the water tank. Here's what that area used to look like:
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/faWfrAe.jpg)
Check out the funky setup someone had rigged for the original air-pressure tank. An electric air pump, connected to a pressure sensor, which I guess would automatically cycle on when the pressure got too low. It beats a bicycle pump but seems a little awkward. I'm putting in a standard demand pump.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/RQ0yrqh.jpg)
Does everyone else have original hot-water lines running through the floor foam? Mine were cut and I removed the ends, will plumb hot water under the cabinets with the cold.
I started interior work with a frame for the new plastic tank and solid bracing for a step up to the bed. The funny thing with building out these campers is you basically can't put any weight on the horizontal surfaces, everything needs to go into walls/frame.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/THXXxaa.jpg)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/13fYyGP.jpg)
The water tank fits snugly and there is room (I think!) for the pump on the left.
The right curve will again be a cabinet, though I'm going back and forth on reusing the old folding table. I hated how it covered the window and made getting into bed difficult... I really liked the setup 67Avion has, and may do something like that. I am simply using an old futon frame instead of the old platform couch, it fits the width perfectly. I have no need for it to slide out.
I am going to shift gears now and take care of the exterior before I continue building out. I have some questions for the way forward, will continue in another post.
- I got some Parbond that I plan to run along most of the tight seams between panels. How did you guys deal with the hardened silvery remnants of the original rubber-tape seal? Looks like I can't remove them except with a metal scraper, and I'm wondering if it's better to just leave em and run the Parbond over the top.
- How about for the big gaps, for example those corners where the front wall comes around the angle to meet the cabover (little triangle-shaped gaps)? There was water damage here before and PO's answer was silicone. Lots of silicone. Once I get that stuff out, how should I feel the big spaces? TremPro? Butyl rubber caulk? Ideas please.
- I took out the old furnace (bent and broken) from its space underneath the closet, by the door. There is a big round 8" hole in the back where the circular vent was. I will have an electrolytic heater in the face of that cabinet, and the space behind it will be storage. Ideas for patching this? I seem to recall someone putting a big backup light in theirs? I was even thinking of some sort of screw-off quick-access to the cabinet inside. Even could be sewer-hose storage, accessible from outside, if I lined it right.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/aoEmX66.jpg)
- What were your experiences getting windows in good shape? Mine are jalousie, original panes, look like they need new weatherstripping. On the front cabover windows, the loose flap of material that runs over the top has gone brittle, and I'll have to see if that can be replaced.
- My floor plywood is peeking out from behind the steps (it has sagged so the edge is visible when you look underneath). Cover it up somehow, or just leave it alone until I replace the floor someday down the line?
Added new cinderblocks under the middle of the camper yesterday, after realizing that one stack of blocks in each corner was still allowing some sagging when I walked inside. Still can't get over the fact that the sponge floor was stapled in. I guess it worked, though.
* This post was edited 07/12/13 01:34pm by NJAvion *
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/July222011download1444.jpg)
As for the window seals, they are all available via:
Vintage Trailer Supply Window parts
As far as the cabover seams, I have used the Parabond over the original to seals some openings that opened up after our last trip to the mainland of Alaska.
Your water tank looks similar to mine. Is yours a 40 gallon as well? Or is it smaller?
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06006.jpg)
I would like to make a recommendation, if you ever plan on using this camper in the winter. Take a bit of time and add this simple insulation. It is not real expensive, and it is not a lot of insulation, but it does help, keep some cold out, and reflects heat back in.
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06663.jpg)
If your original refrigerator has failed, Here is an option, that I really like for boon-docking. Especially when I get around to adding solar. This was the picture from the mock-up of a cooler roughly the same size as the Engle refer/Freezer that i have now. I need to get some pics taken of it in place, but Ican leave the Engle running for days, and the battery is still good, and everything in the Refer is ice cold. Much better than the old Dometic!
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06711-2.jpg)
I moved the sink back to the area above my propane tank (in the old propane fridge door) where the fridge used to be.
![[image]](http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d92/garryk6/1966%20Avion%20Camper%20remodel/DSC06736.jpg)
This was taken before I installed my new 3 burner cook top and Microwave.
Keep the pics coming and we'll help out as much as we can!
Garry in Alaska
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
Your heater hole patch looks solid, I think I saw that a couple months ago when I first looked at this thread. Good idea to go with a little heavier metal there.
Insulation would certainly be worthwhile. I actually picked up a sheet of 1/2" foam/foil board when I was considering remaking the sandwich in the wings. I may lay that down in the storage compartment under the bed, on top of where I have ply screwed to the floor now. Adding foil may be on my near-future list.
PO put in a fairly large regular (AC) fridge. Was thinking of going the budget route for now, and throwing some icepacks in the top of it and insulating it a little, as a stopgap until I can afford a Dometic. Does your Engel have its own battery or run off the 12V? What is the power consumption like?
NJAvion wrote:
Just realized -- if you moved the stove to where the fridge used to be, you could have a real vented range hood that uses the fridge chimney! Someday...
Just realized -- if you moved the stove to where the fridge used to be, you could have a real vented range hood that uses the fridge chimney! Someday...
That isn't too bad of an idea, except I already have my plumbing and drains done...
As for the Engle, I went with the MT-45.
here is a pic..
![[image]](https://www.engel-usa.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/56x45/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/e/n/engel_mt45_ac_dc_4de8fd7de4267.jpg)
Engel MT-45
Here is the information from the Engel Website:
Product Features
AC/DC Compatible
Power Consumption: 0.7 - 2.5 Amps (at 12V DC)
Variable Temperature Control
Incline Operation up to 30° off level
Automatic Voltage Selection between AC and DC power
Highly Efficient Swing Motor Compressor - Low Amp Draws (even at start-up)
Solar Compatible
Removable hinged lid
100% CFC-Free Compressor
Vibration Resistant for Extreme Conditions
Efficient Cooling (independent from ambient temperature)
AC and DC cord included
Interior Wire Basket included
Galvanized Steel Outer Case with Melamine Coating
Heavy-Duty removable Handles
UL Approved
Technical Specs
Model: MT45F-U1
Volume: 43 Qts
Power Consumption: Variable from 0.7-2.5 Amps (12V DC)
Power Source: 12V/24V DC & 110V AC
Internal Dimensions : 15.4" x10.8" x 16.4"
External Dimensions : 25.5" x 14.3" x 20" (excludes hands = 1.5” each)
Net Weight : 66
Warranty Info : 2 Years
Optional Accessories : Transit Slide Lock 530/540, Hinge Lock, Locking Hasp, Wireless Thermometer, DC Hardwire Kit, Posifit Connection, Engel DC Thermal Fuse, Transit Bag 45
Click here for performance data
With the optional Slide, you could install the Engel MT45 where your current Dometic is at, just mount it 90 degrees to the counter (90 degrees of how mine is placed, then you could put a cabinet above the fridge, or even mount a microwave above it, and still have your stove with oven! Then when you need something from the fridge, slide it out like a drawer and open the lid.
Some features that I love about this fridge, is that it can be turned into a freezer with just the turn of the knob, so you can move your chilled stuff to a standard coleman/Engel cooler, crank up the knob and make ice cubes, flash freeze your catch of fish, keep IceCream frozen etc. The other feature that both my wife and I love, is the inside basket. Bring the basket in the house fill it up, take it to the Camper and drop it in the Engel. As long as it fits in the basket it will fit in the Fridge. We have a small Engel Cooler we bring along for those time we want to have Ice Cream, or freeze things like fish. It has about the same capacity as the basket, so it works well. The only down side is storing the Ice Box/cooler. When stopped to camp, it fits nicely on the step to the bunk. When On the road, it is usually relegated to the floor. Not the best, but it works.
They are spendy, but they are a Tank, Bullet proof, and are a Cadillac too.
Hope this helps!
Garry
Just my 2 cents...
JoeChiOhki wrote:
Wow, I'd never thought to use a slip flipping to connect the fresh water tank to a fill point.... I just ended up using a combination of PVC and Poly pipe to route mine the last time I had to rebuild it.
Have you given it the hose test yet to see if a low amount of pressure will cause it to leak around that fitting?
Wow, I'd never thought to use a slip flipping to connect the fresh water tank to a fill point.... I just ended up using a combination of PVC and Poly pipe to route mine the last time I had to rebuild it.
Have you given it the hose test yet to see if a low amount of pressure will cause it to leak around that fitting?
Joe, I found this old post and realized I never replied. The slip fitting did not leak, and wored great!
Thanks
Garry