Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Dexter HD Suspension & EZ-Flex Install (long w/ pictures)
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 > Dexter HD Suspension & EZ-Flex Install (long w/ pictures)

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Learjet

Louisiana

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Posted: 08/23/09 07:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JBarca wrote:


Learjet

Did you notice any grease fittings on the spring pins and heavy duty shackles? I have seen the Trail Aire rubber equalizer installed new on TT's but the same old plastic bushings and thin shackles.

I guess a glimmer of hope is that at least the rubber equalizer is starting to show up.

John


No I didn't look at it that hard. All I noticed was the EZ-Flex between the tires on a Evergreen Everlite trailer. It was so hot and I wanted to leave before I got tempted to get a new trailer. [emoticon]


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LAdams

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Posted: 08/28/09 11:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I for one would sure like to see greasable bolts and shocks at least as an option on ALL new trailers... The leaf springs without grease fittings and/or shocks can only be described as "primitive" at best!!!

We're not talking a lot of $$$ here - when will the TT manufacturers wake up and do this!!! [emoticon] [emoticon]

Les


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amdriven2liv

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Posted: 09/02/09 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello everyone.
I want to thank all of those who have placed pictures of their install of the Dexter suspension system. I received mine yesterday and got one side installed this morning. Will do the other side tomorrow. ( it was getting too warm to be on pavement) Took 3 hours, this includes getting all the jacks and tools in place and out of the garage.

I decided to just use "C" clamps for the job, but couldn't press the bolts in, so I'm off to Harbor Freight to get the "magic" tool.

My plastic bushings were cracked every where. I only have about 3,000 miles on TT.

I will be interested in putting shocks on, but have a big challenge with a gas line in front of the front axel. Was wondering what would be wrong with just one set on the rear axel?

Again, Thanks for the install pics.

Sean


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RCMAN46

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Posted: 09/04/09 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just installed a wet bolt kit on my Equa-flex. For those that have had problems getting your bolts to take grease note this. Before installation I removed all of my grease zerts to make sure the bolt holes were free of foreign material. I found one bolt that was not completely drilled. It lacked about one inch of reaching the cross hole. That bolt obviously would not take grease. Easy to check installed systems. Remove the grease zerts and probe the holes with a small drill bit. If you find a shallow hole you have a problem bolt. This system came from Lippert which is known for lack of quality control.

Steveque

Central California

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Posted: 10/05/09 12:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 81-year old FIL and I (59) just did the mod this weekend on my Thor Wanderer 24 foot trailer. Now, I have a much lighter trailer at 5100 pounds road weight than most on this thread. It took the two of us just 2 hours to do the one side and under 1 hour to do the second side. That time is from lifting the trailer to remove the wheels to doing the final torque on the lug nuts.

My plastic bushings looked almost new with 24,000 miles on them. Again, I think the weight issue is the reason they looked so good. My FIL was really surprised at the condition of the bushings since he had replaced the plastic bushings on his much heavier trailer a few years back.

We did discover a few things about this mod that might help others. First, make sure you are on a level area and DO NOT BLOCK the wheels not being worked on. My trailer had two wheels on grass and two wheels on concrete. We found it hard to move the axles around to install the single bolts in the end hangers when we worked the concrete side. The grass acted as wheel chocks.

We did use two floor jacks (2-ton and 3-ton) to help support and move the axles around a little. We used a small bottle jack (2-ton) to raise and lower the spring right at the center unit. This helped to position the single hanger on the ends so the bolt would side through.

I did most of the work on the second side. I followed the same lift and support the frame as before BUT the other wheels were free to move slightly. As soon as I lifted the grass side axles with the floor jack (Placed on 3/4 inch plywood for a base), the center hanging unit practically slid right out using just a push. I credit this to the axles ability to move free at the other side.

I did use the hacksaw to cut a groove in the plastic bushing, then twisted it out with the needle-nose pliers. This side showed wear on one bushing only.

I did use the Harbor Freight clamp like Barney and Les used. It was slick. However, I found it just as easy to use a hammer and the old bolt and hanger to hammer the bushings in. I used a socket turned backwards to force the serrated edges of the bolts into place.

On side two I used just hand tools - no electric or air impact. None of the nuts were that difficult to remove once I used penetrating oil to loosen the rust. The center nut was harder as the final torque is about 95 foot pounds, but it can be done by one person. Of course two people make it easeir. No, I am not a gorilla.

We will be going on a 240 mile trip this month to the coast. I hope to see some improvement in ride. Even though the old bushings were still good, I feel much more comfortable knowing I have all new stuff under there and grease! I hope any squeaking will be gone but the true test will be the speed bumps at the campground.

Three years ago I installed the Monroe shock kit. My wife and I saw a difference in the ride of this light weight coach. We did add the Reese dual cam back in 2004 to improve the ride comfort over the single friction bar. Two years ago we upgraded our OEM hitch on our Chevy Tahoe SUV to a class four hitch and saw even more ride improvement. The OEM hitch apparently was flexing while towing giving us a somewhat squishy ride - if you know what that feels like (not quite sway but squishy). We also went to the Michelin 4-ply SUV, light truck tire. The stiffer sidewalls gave us a somewhat better ride while towing but a stiffer ride when not. These tires run at 36 psi which is door pillar level and sidewall max. I think a P tire is OK for an SUV, as long as it is air to the sidewall max when towing as we towed many thousands of miles like that. We did added Bilstein shocks two years ago to the Tahoe.

I hope some of this can help you out. I learned a lot from Les and his photo documentation and from the comments others made concerning their project.


Steve Quesenberry
Central California

dcopps

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Posted: 10/08/09 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I installed my kit over the weekend. I also tried to use a large C clamp instead of the ball joint press. I was able to disassemble everything and press in the new bushings but could not seat the new spring bolts. After about an hour of trying everything, I went up to the local auto parts store and rented the ball joint press. No problem pressing the spring bolts and it made the other sided go so much quicker. No need to buy the press from harbor freight, just rent it from Autozone for free. Probably the most difficult task was getting the trailer on jackstands and getting the wet bolts to accept grease. Fill the bolts with grease before you install them and that will tell you if the port and fittings are working.

Good Luck

Learjet

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Posted: 10/08/09 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

how much to rent?

RCMAN46

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Posted: 10/08/09 08:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dcopps wrote:

Fill the bolts with grease before you install them and that will tell you if the port and fittings are working.

Good Luck
X2. When I installed a wet bolt kit on my Cruiser with the Equa-Flex one of the bolts that was supplied had not been completely drilled. It had a grease zert but could not accept any grease. X2 on the cost to rent the ball joint press.

Scuba Chop

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Posted: 10/11/09 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm trying to install the wet bolts on my Jayco as part of a MorRyde SRE 400 system install. Did everyone that did this successfully fasten the spring ends in the end hangers first them work on the middle? I can't get the spring ends to line up in the hangers. Wondering if I'm doing it backwards by installing the middle first then trying to line up the ends.


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JBarca

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Posted: 10/11/09 08:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Scuba Chop wrote:

I'm trying to install the wet bolts on my Jayco as part of a MorRyde SRE 400 system install. Did everyone that did this successfully fasten the spring ends in the end hangers first them work on the middle? I can't get the spring ends to line up in the hangers. Wondering if I'm doing it backwards by installing the middle first then trying to line up the ends.


I did the spring ends first, then the equalizer area as the shackels will pivot to where ever I need it to go verses yanking the axle and all.

I really never thought about starting from the middle but if you do you have to deal with the axle wanting to pull against you.

Good luck

John


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