lincster
Mesa Az
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allcool wrote:lincster wrote:
He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.
armdrag wrote:
Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink") and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load
Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.
Actually, your roof damage prompted me too talk to my WW rv guy that use to work at WW. He said all the Superlites had a different roof construction with no attic.
The bigger(full weight) wide bodies have ducted a/c with an
'attic' for the ductwork. Also he said they have something he called a 'decked roof' 2x4 truss construction with attic ? got no idea what that is.
Anyhow, thankfully my roof seems to be solid and has no concave bow in it at all. Feels very solid to walk on.
RV Doctor resealed it last Xmas and said its in perfect condition with no leakage.
So I tend to think Lincster is correct that the Superlite construction is maybe different.
Sorry you had all that damage, it really suks. But you seem to be right on top of it, doing an incredible detailed and solid repair.
Probably don't want to hear this, but have you done, or do you need the frame upgrade to make sure the walls can hold up that nice new roof ?
![[image]](http://bellsouthpwp.net/a/l/allcool/fswroof.JPG)
Moderators Edit: Adjusted photo width to 640 pixels per the forum guidelines. The Photo FAQ's has help & tips for posting photos.
Yep, the ducted AC makes a difference. The roofs are different.
2019 F350 PSD CC 4X4 Dually to pull 2006 LE3905
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armdrag
WNY
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So the question remains. Did they use finger jointed studs on all models? A practice in the home building industry that would not be tolerated. The building inspector would issue a red tag and all work would stop until corrected. RV's put a lot more stress on wood than a stationary building. Cept in California ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
RV BUILDERS are not held to any uniform construction codes
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jpogue
east bay
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Okay let me start off by saying my name is John and I also own a weekend warrior. It is a 2006 FS2600,gel coat sides,and has been covered most of it's life accept the last 2 years. I saw my nieghbor repairing his roof and he told me to check mine out. So I did and as you might expect it's all soft around the whole front seam on the roof,and also in the back driver side corner. I started doing some searching and found this forum and some others but this one is the most recent,so here I am. I have the whole front ppiece off and most of the roofing peeled back and the damaged sections of particle board removed. Armdrag why did you use plywood for your repair? How do you re-attatch the TPO roofing material? Also I was thinking about using eternabond on the seams after I put everything back together,is this a good idea? Thanks in advance to you all for inspiring me to get off my lazy arse and do something about this.
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armdrag
WNY
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jpogue wrote:Okay let me start off by saying my name is John and I also own a weekend warrior. It is a 2006 FS2600,gel coat sides,and has been covered most of it's life accept the last 2 years. I saw my nieghbor repairing his roof and he told me to check mine out. So I did and as you might expect it's all soft around the whole front seam on the roof,and also in the back driver side corner. I started doing some searching and found this forum and some others but this one is the most recent,so here I am. I have the whole front ppiece off and most of the roofing peeled back and the damaged sections of particle board removed. Armdrag why did you use plywood for your repair? How do you re-attatch the TPO roofing material? Also I was thinking about using eternabond on the seams after I put everything back together,is this a good idea? Thanks in advance to you all for inspiring me to get off my lazy arse and do something about this.
John, I choose plywood over OSB because I feel it is stronger and will hold up better than OSB. The TPO has to be glued down and eternabond is how I am going to seam mine at the flat to angle transition. I bought a 20.00 1/4 crown stapler from Harbor Freight to staple the epdm on the side. I am using black EPDM for my repair and will coat with liquid roof or liquid rubber (approx 1 Gallon). I will have a TPO to EPDM transition. FYI I bought black EPDM a 10x50ft.045 mil roll for 140.00 at a local supplier It was damaged by a fork lift taking it off the truck . A small gouge one layer into the roll. If for some reason I have to tear back into this trailer, It wont feel like such a hit in the pocket. I would suggest pulling back the floor covering in the basement to see if you have water there too.
Good luck to you. It's a lot of work but you will know just what you have when you are done.
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jpogue
east bay
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Thanks for the response armdrag. What kind of glue should I use to put the tpo back down with? A friend of mine who is a roofing contractor recommended sticking with the osb since I am doing just a few sections. He also said that eternabond along seam areas was a good idea. He's gonna talk to a friend of his who specializes in tpo repair and pick his brain some more for me. One thing he recommended that I wasn't crazy about was using copper green on the lumber that still has some fungus on it. I have heard of a product called rot rid but he wasn't that crazy about it. Sofor the next few days I'll be scraping all of the old putty off of everything and cleaning up before I put it all back together. Oh I checked the storage compartment up front and it is fine, i just checked the bad corner so I will check the other corner lat today and keep you posted. Thanks so much for your help. When I figure out how to post pics I'll share some.
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armdrag
WNY
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I will clean the old TPO with Acetone before applying eternabond. It is friendly to TPO and epdm. Good choice from your roofer friend. Just use Kilz or Shelac on any mold. it will stop it dead.
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jpogue
east bay
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Are you going to remove all of the little OSB particles from the TPO before gluing it back down? I tried using a stiff bristle brush (not wire) and it got alot of it off but not all of it. I noticed you painted the framework in the front,was that Kilz you used there? Spent most of today scraping off ol putty and treating some of the minor stuff with copper green. Another friend of mine recommended a product called restore-it. I'm thinking about using that along the sides and in the corners where the water got into the framework.
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jpogue
east bay
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How did you make the curved support pieces for the front nose cap? one of my corner pieces was completely mush I'm trying to get the other one out without damaging the paneling for the cieling. But I don't think its coming out in one piece.
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armdrag
WNY
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jpogue wrote:Are you going to remove all of the little OSB particles from the TPO before gluing it back down? I tried using a stiff bristle brush (not wire) and it got alot of it off but not all of it. I noticed you painted the framework in the front,was that Kilz you used there? Spent most of today scraping off ol putty and treating some of the minor stuff with copper green. Another friend of mine recommended a product called restore-it. I'm thinking about using that along the sides and in the corners where the water got into the framework.
You are right on target. Clean the TPO the best you can. Yes Kilz on the wood where I am concerned water can lay or concentrated if a leak happens again. Any treatment is goig to better than what you had.
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armdrag
WNY
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jpogue wrote:How did you make the curved support pieces for the front nose cap? one of my corner pieces was completely mush I'm trying to get the other one out without damaging the paneling for the cieling. But I don't think its coming out in one piece.
I was able to get mine out barley in one peice and used it as a template. if you cant get it out, use a peice cardboard and scribe the pattern in place. Do the inside curve first and so that you have the best fit possible and then once you have a good inside curve the outside curve is easy. I used 2x12 and a peice of 3/4 plywood attached for the end studs. I used 2 - 3/4 plywood peices screwd together to create an 1-1/2 thick peice for the inside studs. I cut them with a sabre saw / jig saw.
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