armdrag
WNY
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callen06 wrote:Looks like a lot of work! But you gotta do what ya gotta do.
Are ya gonna jump up and down on it when you are done? I would be scared to even crawl carefully up on mine!
It is a lot of work but I committed to this TH and now I am determined to make it better and show others that got delt the same bad deal a way to salvage thier hard earned dollars they invested in this unit. No one can deny how cool the Weekend Warrior toy haulers look and the cool features, I would rather be mudding and camping instead of building structural integrity into my unit. When I am done it will still look cool, and I know it will be sound.
If you do noting it brings to mind the old saying "You can put lipstick on a pig , but it is still a pig"
I dont think I will jump up and down on it when I am done (I would take out everyting within a 10 foot radius) I may have my son do it though ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/grin.gif "grin")
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callen06
st.charles, mo
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Joined: 01/01/2008
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You will have a good one when you are done. Thats for sure!
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armdrag
WNY
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Does anyone know what type of plastic the front cowlings on the WW Superlights are made from? e.g. ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), EMA (Ethylene Meth- acrylic Acid), PPO + PA Noryl GTX (Nylon blend). There are so many types and they all have thier own repair technique...HELP!!!!!
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pcassidy111
California
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Joined: 11/17/2004
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What is the indicator of a rotted out roof. I walk on my 2005 FS2600 roof and it gives a little under my 200 pounds but I can also feel the trailer rocking on the suspension. In the front corners of the roof where the TPO meets the aluminum siding I rap on the roof with my knuckles and it sounds solid and it is not spongy; I had evidence of water seepage there because the screws were rusty and WW did a poor job of sealing the area.
I too have a slight sag in my roof by the AC unit, rear corner of it touches the roof. I'll have to check to see if I have finger joint limber on my 2005 which was built in 2004. No leaks around the AC.
Pete
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lincster
Mesa Az
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allcool wrote:armdrag wrote:Hi All,
I have been repairing my 2007 WW FS2500 since the day I brought it home in 2007. I have documented as much as I can the damage and the fix. I also have some outrigger repair pictures from another poster. cant remember who. Click here to access my google photo album (click on the picture)
I hope this helps those that cant afford to take it to a dealer to get fixed.
Regards
Ken
Here are some pics
If you have a roof that is sagging the reason is because the rafters were made with finger joined studs. Not for horizontal use.
![[image]](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1JcKxEqAp3I/T8Yl0cTUzuI/AAAAAAAAG5I/F5tjQJnwsEk/s640/IMAGE_D7558DD6-00FE-43BD-B6F3-F87C8AD293E0.JPG)
Here is the factory stamp on one of my rafters
![[image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RlrKjPS3YIM/T8Yl8TLrd1I/AAAAAAAAG5I/Try_LV-9ykQ/s640/IMAGE_5EAE9A77-B3E3-4352-8DBE-8D4BE419DC9C.JPG)
I am replacing rafters with 1-1/2 ripped down from clear(no knots) 2x6. And sistering 1-1/2 x 1/8 angle iron to them. I will be posting more pictures as I progress with the rebuild
Wow, that is a lot of damage, and looks to be a very poor choice of construction materials and construction.
Sorry you're having those problems.
I'm not very familar with the construction of the WW roof rafter system. In your pics, are we looking at what my WW fsw3200 brochure says is...
" 2"x4" Constructed Truss Roof "
He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.
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armdrag
WNY
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Quote: He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.
Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink") and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load
Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.
* This post was
edited 06/12/12 09:16pm by armdrag *
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BigDogF250
Ramona, CA
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Armdrag - Keep up the good work and postings! Very common to see those "vertical use only" used horizontally on the WW. Love the design, hate the execution. I had to do a similar reinforcement in the right rear, 8' of angle iron sandwich because they used the same stuff as the bottom of the wall, it looked like a snake. I will be opening up the bottom 2/3 of the wall sometime later this summer to fix similar problems to the side door (another 10 feet) and add support to the wheel wells. Really like getting a better idea of what's in there.
Don't take life too seriously, it's not permanent.
06 Weekend Warrior FSC3200, Axles flipped, Bridgestone Duravis Tires
2005 Ford F250 PSD 4x4
07 Yamaha YZF450 White/Silver, 94 Husqvarna WXC610
2008 Polaris RZR 800, 2011 Honda CBR1000RR & one Goffin Cockatoo
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armdrag
WNY
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BigDog, thanks I will. Please take pictures of your findings in the wall. I am sure I will be tackling that soon enough. I just hate taking long peices of siding off.
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allcool
sFL_Glamis_PHX
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Joined: 10/22/2011
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lincster wrote:
He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.
armdrag wrote:
Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load
Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.
Actually, your roof damage prompted me too talk to my WW rv guy that use to work at WW. He said all the Superlites had a different roof construction with no attic.
The bigger(full weight) wide bodies have ducted a/c with an
'attic' for the ductwork. Also he said they have something he called a 'decked roof' 2x4 truss construction with attic ? got no idea what that is.
Anyhow, thankfully my roof seems to be solid and has no concave bow in it at all. Feels very solid to walk on.
RV Doctor resealed it last Xmas and said its in perfect condition with no leakage.
So I tend to think Lincster is correct that the Superlite construction is maybe different.
Sorry you had all that damage, it really suks. But you seem to be right on top of it, doing an incredible detailed and solid repair.
Probably don't want to hear this, but have you done, or do you need the frame upgrade to make sure the walls can hold up that nice new roof ?
![[image]](http://bellsouthpwp.net/a/l/allcool/fswroof.JPG)
Moderators Edit: Adjusted photo width to 640 pixels per the forum guidelines. The Photo FAQ's has help & tips for posting photos.
* This post was
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2007 WW FSW3200
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1 Lt500 hybrid
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armdrag
WNY
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I know that the new Warriors have a cambered roof that appears to have the two by fours on edge. if yours are on edge to then the finger jointed studs will probably hold up better (if they are finger jointed)
My frame is as solid as can be expected. I am a welder too so I have a good idea what to look for. I dont cinch up my load levelers too tight to strees the tounge. I did try to haul it one time with out the load levelers, bad move on my part. the frame has too much flex in it
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