Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: B+ motorhomes

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Topic: B+ motorhomes

Posted By: Gene in NE on 05/28/13 09:18pm

RV er - To know how much you should be able to tow, there is a sticker on my door post indicating Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) 16,000 lbs, Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for both front 4,300 lbs and rear axle 8,600 lbs, ant then a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) 16,000 lbs.

I took my RV over a truck stop scale (ready for travel) and weighed the front 3,260, total 9,020, and rear axle 5,760. My hitch has a maximum of 350 hitch weight and tow capacity of 3,500. If I could "beef up" the hitch, design wise I could tow 16,000 GCWR less 9,020 actual = 6,980 lbs. Without changes to the receiver hitch, I am limited to the 3,500 lbs.

Whether I would like the performance is dependent on personal desires.

2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 05/28/13 09:24pm

Check your hitch, to start with, no sense in ripping it off the frame...it should have a rating label on it. Then find out what the chassis manufacture's maximum weight for combined vehicle towing. Then check the loaded weight of the RV at a scales. The chassis spec less the scaled weight will tell you the actual amount you can tow, if the hitch is big enough. There is no set answer for your question.

on edit..guess I should have read more posts on the thread. Basically same as above.

'06 Phaeton 40' QSH
'14 Ford Flex SEL AWD Toad
'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
Scottiemom's Pet or husband to Dale
RV.net Rallies 13, Other Rallies 21, Escapades 7
Fulltimers since 2005, Where are we?
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Posted By: Gene in NE on 05/28/13 10:27pm

For those that enjoy reading about towing and what can be done. Here is a posting from sometime back - Towing with a Chrysler 300C. The entire story is in the first posting, the balance merely comments. The craftsman "Andy Thomson" provides details on page 3.

Understand that this posting is in the "Tow Vehicles" forum meaning that most think of 3/4 Ton Diesel Pickups.

I am not promoting this topic, but merely found it interesting reading. [emoticon]

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 05/29/13 06:16am

We're almost 1600 miles into our Alaska trip. Today after another 220 miles, is Great Falls MT for final provisions before crossing into Alberta mid-day tomorrow.

The Camco Electric Water Heater Element Kit I installed, works great, just turn it on at arrival and plenty of hot water shortly . We both took showers last night about an 1/2 hour apart and had no problem, however since it's like jumping into a Baggie, not much water was used anyway.

So far the only thing that has caused any problem on the 213 at all is the way R-Vision positioned the black tank dump valve, angling down at 45° instead of parallel to the ground. It actually hangs down a bit lower than the frame mounted skid bars. I had thought about it before, but let it slide. Looks as though it will be rotated 90° up when I get a chance on a concrete pad. So since I have to look forward to the nasty job will pick up new grey & black dump valves in Great Falls today. Actually thinking about an electric black tank dump valve, just might be a nice addition when the trip is over.

BTW 100% chance of rain today here in Columbus MT, and yes it is raining for my morning campsite leaving preparations. Trying to talk Scottiemom into trying to do the "Blue Jobs" for practice, just in case I get hurt on the trip. Doesn't look like I'm very persuasive in my argument.

Posted By: Orion_42 on 05/29/13 06:36am

Nice trip, Teacher's Pet....I'm jealous. I agree with you on that dump handle positioning. In fact, I rotated the valve, on my 211, 90 degrees and added a small access hatch on that side so I can see and actuate that handle. I also built a tray accessed through that small hatch to store some of the black-water nasty hardware and adapters. With the handle down, it always leaked some effluent through the handle shaft in the process, so it was very annoying. Not to mention the handle having been whacked a few times before I owned it.

----------------------
2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

Posted By: Teacher's Pet on 05/29/13 07:14am

Great idea Orion 42.. Will do when return. Wish I had heard of that before. I mounted a 4 foot 5" vinyl fence post vertically beside the ladder to store my capped sewer hose. The sewer connections, water hoses, grill, leveling blocks, extra parts (belts, wipers, hoses, and extra alternator*) and some propane cylinders and 1.2 gallon propane tank are in a 46" x 20" x 20" waterproof aluminum truck box on a custom elevated hitch mounted rack.

*Extra alternator..my mechanic suggested this due to the higher amperage output, He felt that would be the hardest part for us to come up with in the backwoods of Canada and Alaska. I bought a "take-off" from Elkhart Alernator and Starter Exchange for $140. This a "tested" surplus "new" alternator he buys in bulk from a local ambulance converter who uses an even larger one than the Chevrolet 3500 and 4500 Cab & Chassis used by the RV industry comes with. A Delco Re-manufactured alternator was priced to me at $255 + a core charge.

Posted By: cheeze1 on 05/29/13 07:16am

Tho' it's hard to know what was going thru Rvision's minds with some of the design, I think the angle is there for leverage when releasing the valve. Mine didn't extend low enough to contact anything and never leaked at the handle. BPlus installed electric valves on his, you might give him a shout.
That Alaska trip seems great!

Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite
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Posted By: Snowman9000 on 05/29/13 05:43pm

I mounted a 4" square vinyl fence post /hose holder on the back side of the skid things. This caused me to reposition the dump valve handle up higher so it would clear the opening of the hose holder. But I don't like having to reach under and up to pull the handle, so I was going to put it back to stock, and get the hose out from the curb side instead.

And I'm not 100% confident the 4" square tube is protected by the skids anyway. This is all on my list to figure out in the next few weeks.

Currently RV-less but not done yet.

Posted By: Snowman9000 on 05/29/13 05:48pm

I noticed that my rear cargo door is delaminating on both inner and outer skins, down near the bottom. Apparently the door frame gasket is leaking, and water gets onto the inside of the door, then runs down and collects in the raised lip of the bottom of the door frame. Edit: lip of the door itself. Whereupon the door materials draw it up like a sponge.

The good news is, it's only a cargo door, so it shouldn't be too hard to deal with. Unlike wall delam. I don't even want to think about that. When I get to the job, I'll post some photos.

* This post was edited 05/30/13 10:44am by Snowman9000 *

Posted By: Gene in NE on 05/29/13 10:02pm

Snowman9000 - Please do show pictures, always easier to understand the description.

Teacher's Pet - I have also thought about an electric dump valve. Drain Master was the manufacturer and several years back I saw a sale on the $99 unit for $39 and I didn't snap it up. Wish I had as they are more expensive now RV Upgrade for Drain Master.

Whenever you are in a campground with full hook-ups, it is recommended to leave the black tank valve closed until the tank is full and then snap the valve open. Our Model 211-S has the shower drain going into the black tank. It would not be nice to be taking your shower and the black tank gets full, having to dress, go outside to pull open the manual valve, and then finishing your shower. [emoticon]

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