1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Really hoping to put this one to bed once and for all.
then...
on to the next.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
On the case of engine temperature, the sensor has a wax/plastic plug that melts and solidifies over a range of temperatures, increasing or decreasing resistance in the circuit. Over time (decades), the plug loses its ability to respond to temperature changes.
On the case of engine temperature, the sensor has a wax/plastic plug that melts and solidifies over a range of temperatures, increasing or decreasing resistance in the circuit. Over time (decades), the plug loses its ability to respond to temperature changes.
Okay, 'my' take-away from this? (and thanks for that tid-bit of information, Griff!! Something REALLY nice to know when troubleshooting sensor-dependent circuits!) If you don't know how old a sensor is and if/when it was last replaced, it 'might' be a good idea to replace it anyway.
Wolf_n_Kat wrote:
Okay, 'my' take-away from this? (and thanks for that tid-bit of information, Griff!! Something REALLY nice to know when troubleshooting sensor-dependent circuits!) If you don't know how old a sensor is and if/when it was last replaced, it 'might' be a good idea to replace it anyway.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
On the case of engine temperature, the sensor has a wax/plastic plug that melts and solidifies over a range of temperatures, increasing or decreasing resistance in the circuit. Over time (decades), the plug loses its ability to respond to temperature changes.
On the case of engine temperature, the sensor has a wax/plastic plug that melts and solidifies over a range of temperatures, increasing or decreasing resistance in the circuit. Over time (decades), the plug loses its ability to respond to temperature changes.
Okay, 'my' take-away from this? (and thanks for that tid-bit of information, Griff!! Something REALLY nice to know when troubleshooting sensor-dependent circuits!) If you don't know how old a sensor is and if/when it was last replaced, it 'might' be a good idea to replace it anyway.
Actually, I'd check the wires and connections on both the gauge and ground sides of the sensor first. More often, I find problems with the circuits themselves rather than the sensor or gauge. That said, the sensor are relatively inexpensive and worth replacing on older engines, especially if working on it gives you easy access to the sensor.
In the case of engine oil pressure, instead of using an OEM sensor, use a late model sensor. On newer vehicles, the sensor contains both a switch and variable resistor, giving you the ability to have both an oil pressure gauge and indicator light.
I don't have the part numbers handy for that upgrade but will find them if there's enough interest. (Ask Leeann what she thinks of the upgrade ... she installed it on her motorhome.)
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I don't have the part numbers handy for that upgrade but will find them if there's enough interest. (Ask Leeann what she thinks of the upgrade ... she installed it on her motorhome.)
I don't have the part numbers handy for that upgrade but will find them if there's enough interest. (Ask Leeann what she thinks of the upgrade ... she installed it on her motorhome.)
I love it. We installed a red LED right next to the gauge, so we have actual pressure and WARNING, WILL ROBINSON! right next to it. It's perfect.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Mine was ruined after I had what I thought to be a genius idea. I finally got a chance to dig out my old cable and see if I could find any numbers. Strike one. Then it hit me - 'before' ordering the cable, maybe I could pull the one end out of the sheath, put the two pieces together at the break, and double-check on the length?
Strikes two and three. Accounting for the fraying where the cable broke, and one or two small kinks (meaning I couldn't get it board-straight, but I got it pretty darn close), the cable is something in the neighborhood of 148" or 149", end-to-end.
Soooooo... Maybe one of the local BIG truck repair places will be able to help.
I would still order the cable I gave you the part number for ... it might just be the right one. If not, you can return it without any problems.
I'll keep looking for a cable with the length you indicated (148-149").
And I understand that 'walk of shame' very well, although mine wasn't a mini-bike, nor was it three miles. Mine was my cousin's go-cart, and it was across a church parking lot. And for a ten-year old, that was a HUGE parking lot!
He's going though information he has available to see if there's the same cable in 148-149 inches.
BTW - CarQuest is now Advance Auto, although not all stores have changed signs, etc. yet.
I've been banging away at my sources and managed to find a listing for a B300 with a 145" wheelbase ... and it used the same front cable as all the other B300s. Some listings indicated different right and left rear parking brake cables for the school bus variant of B300s.