Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/06/16 06:55pm

Does your radiator have a fan shroud? They often get left off when people change radiators. The fan shroud is critical to keeping the engine from running hot at idle.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/06/16 06:59pm

I'm also beginning to suspect an issue with your engine temp sensor and gauge. If I recall correctly, you said you changed the sensor. Did you use Teflon thread tape when you put the new sensor in?

Posted By: goreds2 on 08/07/16 12:10pm

ctanner wrote:

But I'd like to give a bit of input the AC issue with goreds van. Your symptoms are similar to the ones on my '98 safari, replaced compressor, drier and office tube 6 years ago and it was doing the same as yours. I converted to R-134 at that time and bought a set of gauges and a vacuum pump from harbor freight. To fix my issue this time, I vacuumed the system down, replaced the office tube (it's a inline filter) and vacuumed the system again and recharged it. The orfice tube didn't have much in it but if there were metal debris caught in it I'd know that the compressor was on it's way out. Good as new though - and since I have the equipment already it cost about $18. For you to buy the same would probably be about $200 but once you own the equipment you won't really be stuck without AC again... (Please note, I'm only working with automotive R-134 and am not an HVAC tech, but an hobbiest mechanic [emoticon]

)

Thanks, the previous owner converted it to R-134. When I do take it to the shop, i will show them your post.

See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds

Posted By: eyeteeth on 08/07/16 05:23pm

Griff...

The Sensor is about the only thing that hasn't been changed. And, yea... made a couple of discoveries today. First, the Distributor was loose. We could turn it by hand. The timing was off the scale off... way advanced. Got that corrected. Seemed better at idle and then when we ran higher RPMS. Took it for a test drive. Didn't go 'as hot' but still wasn't anywhere I'd be comfortable driving it. Got back and shot it with a laser temp gun. Showed the block around the sensor at a respectable 187 degrees.

So...

Now I'm looking at replacing the sensor. I'm hoping I don't have to remove too much to get that switched out. But... I'm glad I think we finally have it straightened out.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/07/16 06:43pm

Assumptions are a big gotcha ... I assumed your timing was correct. If the timing is advanced too far, the hot ignition charge is staying in the cylinder longer and therefore transferring more heat through the cylinder walls. (Not to mention loss of power and fuel economy.)

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/07/16 06:45pm

Do not use thread tape on the sensor. New sensors come with just enough sealant already on them, plus they have a tapered pipe thread that seals better the more you tighten it. (As long as you don't go too far.) The negative (ground) side of the circuit is through the sensor base into the block. Thread tape partially or completely insulates the electrical connection, throwing off the gauge reading.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/07/16 06:47pm

Everybody: Normal engine troubleshooting is ignition first, fuel second, and everything else third, fourth, etc. If you don't have spark, at the right time, everything else is wasted effort and money.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/07/16 06:53pm

187 degrees is reasonable. At sea level, water boils at 212 degrees. As pressure decreases, such as at higher altitudes, the boiling point drops. Conversely, as pressure increases, such as in a pressurized coolant system with a 16 psi radiator cap, the boiling point rises. Most gasoline engine thermostats are fully open at 160-195 degrees.

Posted By: eyeteeth on 08/07/16 08:27pm

I assumed timing would have been correct too. Obviously... lol... went through a lot 'o stuff. That coupled with the gauge showing things hot...

Hopefully a new sensor with get the gauge to read correctly. Don't know if the things can be calibrated or not... or if they are what they are. Never had one go bad.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/07/16 09:01pm

Most motor vehicle gauges provide a relative indication of operating conditions. With the exception of the ammeter, most gauges are simply voltmeters. The sensors, in turn, vary the voltage going to the gauge by increasing or decreasing resistance in response to the condition they're monitoring. The quality of ground connections going back to the battery, length of wire between the sensor and gauge, and quality of electrical connections, as well as corrosion, dirt, and oil/grease, can all affect the accuracy of the gauge's reading. Personally, I prefer both indicator lights (aka "idiot" lights) and gauges in a vehicle, instead of either/or.

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