Open Roads Forum |
Print | Close |
Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Leeann
on 08/03/16 06:48pm
|
Yep, that's the plate we were talking about.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 08/03/16 08:18pm
|
Wolf_n_Kat - No problems, I've been busy also. As Leeann indicated, that plate is exactly what we've been talking about. At this point, the only reason to keep searching for the VIN stamped in the frame is to verify what's on that plate. As I cannot think of any reason someone would swap plates, you can stop here and assume you have the information you need. Something to consider ... when your motorhome was manufactured, Dodge (and the industry) was trying to deal with the oil embargo, competition from overseas, a drastically changing market, and competition between U.S. manufacturers. Likewise, motohomes were an emerging market that was rapidly evolving and had little technological history (i.e., lessons learned) to draw upon. The result was a lot of turmoil that makes it difficult to create a thorough database, especially when parts companies tend to see (older) motorhomes as a niche market not worth a lot of investment. Finally, parts stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly, NAPA, and others cater primarily to automobiles, pickup trucks, and vans, with an emphasis on late model vehicles. The CarQuest store I worked at was unique, starting out as an independent store catering to commercial customers rather than the general public. Prior to the early '70s, virtually all manufactured motorhomes were Class A, primarily using the Dodge P300 chassis, which is a stepvan intended for commercial customers. I've been told Dodge came up with the M300 designation because some people were upset when they found out their motorhome was built on the same chassis as local bread and laundry trucks. Other than the designation, P300 and M300 chassis were identical. I remember considerable media attention and discussion when Dodge came out with the B-series vans in the 1971 model year. Similar media excitement surrounded the Kary Van when Dodge introduced it in 1973. The Dodge B100/200/300 were complete vehicles with van bodies. The CB300 and MB300 were incomplete chassis, sometimes called cut-away chassis. As with the P300 & M300 chassis, the CB300 and MB300 are effectively identical. For the most part, differences are primarily limited some of the CB300 options (passenger seat, radio, etc.) being standard in the MB300 chassis. To break down the model designations, 300 indicates 1-ton light duty truck, B indicates van chassis and cab/body, C indicates commercial market, and M indicates motorhome market. So, have your parts store look for a CB300 listing. (CarQuest's database doesn't have a MB300 category, although older paper catalogs did.) If they don't have a CB300 listing, have them try the B300 listing and chose the heavier duty parts when several alternatives are available. As with all vehicle work, compare the new parts with the old parts before installing them. (People at every step of the supply chain can make mistakes.) You might have better luck finding a parts store that caters to commercial customers, especially those with medium and heavy duty trucks. (They're usually located in industrial areas and often lack the fancy signs and storefronts common to automobile parts stores.) Just don't tell the counter people you're looking for motorhome parts ... their brains tend to switch off when they hear "motorhome." Instead, tell them you're looking for 1974 Dodge MB300/CB300 parts. If, after trying to find the parts yourself without any luck, let me know and I'll see if I can find the right part numbers. 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: Wolf_n_Kat
on 08/03/16 08:49pm
|
Okay, I'll see if I can find anything like you described re: parts stores. Shouldn't be too hard to find, as Reno is something of a 'trucking hub' with it's share of truck stops, trucking companies, and a couple fulfillment centers (Amazon being one of them). I might even try the local RV centers, although my experience with them has been something along the lines of "We'll give you $500 trade-in for that on a new motorhome..." Uhhhhh... Don't want a new motorhome, I want to fix the one I've already got! Oh, something else I remembered from your response to my original post - yes, it's the three-piece cable system. The 'Master cable' from the handle to the adjustable yoke, and two 'Slave cables' that run to each of the rear brakes. On mine, it's the Master cable that broke. There's a (relatively) short sleeved section that runs through the firewall and engine compartment and ends where it bolts to the frame, and the cables are exposed from there on back... If the cable had broken outside the sleeve, I could possibly rig up a repair that would hold me until I could get a real cable. Just my luck, the break is inside the sleeve, so no amount of creative engineering is going to work. So I'll try your suggestions, and also see if I can find any kind of part number on the assembly itself. If it's a stamped number, that MAY be possible. If it's an inked/painted number, I'm thinking that the odds of it still being there after 42 years is somewhere between slim and none... And Slim left town. ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 08/03/16 09:38pm
|
Wolf_n_Kat wrote: ![]() Okay, I'll see if I can find anything like you described re: parts stores. Shouldn't be too hard to find, as Reno is something of a 'trucking hub' with it's share of truck stops, trucking companies, and a couple fulfillment centers (Amazon being one of them). I might even try the local RV centers, although my experience with them has been something along the lines of "We'll give you $500 trade-in for that on a new motorhome..." Uhhhhh... Don't want a new motorhome, I want to fix the one I've already got! Oh, something else I remembered from your response to my original post - yes, it's the three-piece cable system. The 'Master cable' from the handle to the adjustable yoke, and two 'Slave cables' that run to each of the rear brakes. On mine, it's the Master cable that broke. There's a (relatively) short sleeved section that runs through the firewall and engine compartment and ends where it bolts to the frame, and the cables are exposed from there on back... If the cable had broken outside the sleeve, I could possibly rig up a repair that would hold me until I could get a real cable. Just my luck, the break is inside the sleeve, so no amount of creative engineering is going to work. So I'll try your suggestions, and also see if I can find any kind of part number on the assembly itself. If it's a stamped number, that MAY be possible. If it's an inked/painted number, I'm thinking that the odds of it still being there after 42 years is somewhere between slim and none... And Slim left town. ![]() Tell Slim to get back here! ... Try CarQuest p/n BCA93516 ... It's the front parking brake cable for a '74 B300 van with 127 in. wheelbase (aren't you glad you measured) ... should be the same for your motorhome. (It is the same for '77 B300 with 127 in. wheelbase.) P.S. Carquest database does list a MB300 for '74, surprise, surprise! It also has database categories for just about all parking brake parts. (I had to do a search for "parking" rather than the standard DB drill down ... and it ask for wheelbase before giving me the parts list.) Here's a link to a picture, if the CarQuest commercial website allows it. |
Posted By: ctanner
on 08/06/16 12:25pm
|
Hi all! Firstly, I just finished reading all 664 pages and my head hurts! Mark, if you're still out there thank you for planting the seed that started this thread! Griff and Leeann, thanks for sticking around too! I recently purchased a new to me 1977 Chevron class C 21' (bumper to bumper) built on a 1976 MB400 sportsman cutaway. She's 440 powered and in the next couple of days I will fill in the details with pics and the adventure getting her home. But I'd like to give a bit of input the AC issue with goreds van. Your symptoms are similar to the ones on my '98 safari, replaced compressor, drier and office tube 6 years ago and it was doing the same as yours. I converted to R-134 at that time and bought a set of gauges and a vacuum pump from harbor freight. To fix my issue this time, I vacuumed the system down, replaced the office tube (it's a inline filter) and vacuumed the system again and recharged it. The orfice tube didn't have much in it but if there were metal debris caught in it I'd know that the compressor was on it's way out. Good as new though - and since I have the equipment already it cost about $18. For you to buy the same would probably be about $200 but once you own the equipment you won't really be stuck without AC again... (Please note, I'm only working with automotive R-134 and am not an HVAC tech, but an hobbiest mechanic ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 08/06/16 01:47pm
|
Welcome, and thanks for your input.
|
Posted By: eyeteeth
on 08/06/16 03:11pm
|
Well... Replaced water pump... And clutch fan.... No luck. Runs super hot just idling. After 15 minutes or so I checked my overflow tank, noticed bubbles. Thinking I may have head issues.... Talk to me. ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 08/06/16 03:53pm
|
eyeteeth wrote: ![]() Well... Replaced water pump... And clutch fan.... No luck. Runs super hot just idling. After 15 minutes or so I checked my overflow tank, noticed bubbles. Thinking I may have head issues.... Talk to me. ![]() 1. Is the oil on the dip stick milky colored? That indicates water in the oil. 2. Is there oil in the coolant? Otherwise, the bubbles may be due to trapped air in the coolant system getting forced out. |
Posted By: eyeteeth
on 08/06/16 03:56pm
|
Just all the coolant out to change pump. Looked fine. Just changed the oil a couple weeks back. Looked fine. I'm just out of ideas.
|
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 08/06/16 06:48pm
|
Check the oil on the dipstick again. Water in the crankcase causes the oil to look like muddy coffee (i.e., coffee with cream or milk). Short of doing a compression test, it sounds like your heads and head gaskets are okay. It's increasingly sounding like your coolant system needs to be "burped" to get air bubbles out of the passages. |
Print | Close |