Then I have a vacuum booster (79 Dodge/Fleetwood, 24ft).
Spent about half an hour in her today. I'll probably fire up the generator and run a space heater for a while Friday... It's been a little over a month.
Still haven't figured out the coolant system problem however... And my 'personal' consult mechanic now has a new job doing OTR. Looks like i'll have to lean on ya'll again for a while.
eyeteeth wrote:
Still haven't figured out the coolant system problem however... And my 'personal' consult mechanic now has a new job doing OTR. Looks like i'll have to lean on ya'll again for a while.
Still haven't figured out the coolant system problem however... And my 'personal' consult mechanic now has a new job doing OTR. Looks like i'll have to lean on ya'll again for a while.
You might want to try some UV dye in the coolant, get it hot, shut it down and watch with a blacklight(I use a plain blacklight bulb in a trouble light).....you'll see right where it comes from.
Question is....where to get it?? I get mine from a friend when I need it, who works in a shop.
Water pump weep hole, first sign of the pump pooping out. New or old, first sign. First shows it's head under the high pressure after shut-off.
I didn't see if your rig has a small or big block, both are a pain to change in a van chassis. For a big block, I'd recommend the Edelbrock pump(which is what I have), and for the small, either a Flowcooler or a Milodon. All are on the expensive side, but offer a big upgrade as far as flow potential. Couple a high flow pump with a high flow stat and you have a winner. I am also not too partial to fan clutches, I usually replace them with the biggest direct drive fan that will fit. There is an adapter that allows the use of the original fan, or the old school drill-and-pin the clutch solid.
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On mine, the water heater has an external cover. Inside the cover is a red knob with off/on/light settings. Turn the knob to 'light', push in, and light the pilot light thru the little tube. Hold the knob in for 30 seconds or so, release and turn to 'on'. If the light goes out, turn it off, wait a few, and try again, holding the knob longer. There is a little probe in there that has to heat up before a safety valve will allow gas to flow w/out the knob pushed in, a safety should the pilot blow out.
The furnace, on the other hand, requires power from the 12-volt system, or shore power. That system has no outside access, other than the air intake and exhaust from the burner. It is also much like a home central heat system, in that it has a normal thermostat, with off/on/auto settings, a temp dial, and electric ignition. Turn on and adjust thermostat, and it fires up on its' own. Not all are like this. If yours has an outside cover, look for the same type ignition system as I described on the water heater.
Just a thought....invest a few $$$ in a CO detector(carbon monoxide) before you even attempt to get these systems going. You can find them anywhere, even combined with a smoke detector, which is also a good idea. It is a small investment that can save you and your loved ones lives. We tend to seal our campers up tight when it's cold, and the buildup of this odorless gas is truly something not to be denied, especially when we are working with older equipment. Propane stinks, carbon-monoxide does not.
Hope this helped, and a Merry Christmas to all!
rvrdrunner wrote:
Mine is a 78. Different coachmaker, but the systems are fairly generic. Best to find out exactly what make/model(s) you have, post those, and kind hearted folk will lead you to the manuals for your specific devices.
On mine, the water heater has an external cover. Inside the cover is a red knob with off/on/light settings. Turn the knob to 'light', push in, and light the pilot light thru the little tube. Hold the knob in for 30 seconds or so, release and turn to 'on'. If the light goes out, turn it off, wait a few, and try again, holding the knob longer. There is a little probe in there that has to heat up before a safety valve will allow gas to flow w/out the knob pushed in, a safety should the pilot blow out.
The furnace, on the other hand, requires power from the 12-volt system, or shore power. That system has no outside access, other than the air intake and exhaust from the burner. It is also much like a home central heat system, in that it has a normal thermostat, with off/on/auto settings, a temp dial, and electric ignition. Turn on and adjust thermostat, and it fires up on its' own. Not all are like this. If yours has an outside cover, look for the same type ignition system as I described on the water heater.
Just a thought....invest a few $$$ in a CO detector(carbon monoxide) before you even attempt to get these systems going. You can find them anywhere, even combined with a smoke detector, which is also a good idea. It is a small investment that can save you and your loved ones lives. We tend to seal our campers up tight when it's cold, and the buildup of this odorless gas is truly something not to be denied, especially when we are working with older equipment. Propane stinks, carbon-monoxide does not.
Hope this helped, and a Merry Christmas to all!
You might find something helpful here, It just takes some searching and reading, I know it says GMC But I found some of my things here and mine is a 79 Dodge.Mine is a 78. Different coachmaker, but the systems are fairly generic. Best to find out exactly what make/model(s) you have, post those, and kind hearted folk will lead you to the manuals for your specific devices.
On mine, the water heater has an external cover. Inside the cover is a red knob with off/on/light settings. Turn the knob to 'light', push in, and light the pilot light thru the little tube. Hold the knob in for 30 seconds or so, release and turn to 'on'. If the light goes out, turn it off, wait a few, and try again, holding the knob longer. There is a little probe in there that has to heat up before a safety valve will allow gas to flow w/out the knob pushed in, a safety should the pilot blow out.
The furnace, on the other hand, requires power from the 12-volt system, or shore power. That system has no outside access, other than the air intake and exhaust from the burner. It is also much like a home central heat system, in that it has a normal thermostat, with off/on/auto settings, a temp dial, and electric ignition. Turn on and adjust thermostat, and it fires up on its' own. Not all are like this. If yours has an outside cover, look for the same type ignition system as I described on the water heater.
Just a thought....invest a few $$$ in a CO detector(carbon monoxide) before you even attempt to get these systems going. You can find them anywhere, even combined with a smoke detector, which is also a good idea. It is a small investment that can save you and your loved ones lives. We tend to seal our campers up tight when it's cold, and the buildup of this odorless gas is truly something not to be denied, especially when we are working with older equipment. Propane stinks, carbon-monoxide does not.
Hope this helped, and a Merry Christmas to all!
HERE
* This post was edited 12/18/10 07:12am by oldtrucker63 *
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
linedrafter7 wrote:
We just bought a 1979 Dodge chassis Brouham. Not too sure who made them, but it is clean....found it through another site, and talked at lenght with the present owner. I swear it's immaculent inside....Now we have to figure out when we make the trip to pick it up.....We're hoping for a break in this cold, so we might be able to camp in it on the way home.....Wwe can't wait....
We just bought a 1979 Dodge chassis Brouham. Not too sure who made them, but it is clean....found it through another site, and talked at lenght with the present owner. I swear it's immaculent inside....Now we have to figure out when we make the trip to pick it up.....We're hoping for a break in this cold, so we might be able to camp in it on the way home.....Wwe can't wait....
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