Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: eyeteeth on 10/04/10 11:39am

Thanks Skimask.. got it apart, only to follow the wire in question and discover I could have gotten to the part without taking the entire thing out, and apart... still working on that one though.

I've got something crazy going on electrically though. I got the Onan apart, finally found a working multimeter, and did a little more testing. Skipping at least one paragraph of story. It's running now... AND even the AC is kicking on. The end of the story, is for giggles, I jumpered the fuel pump to the 12v so it was running and hit the start button. It fired... and ran... and NOW continued to put 12v to the fuel pump. I shut it off, started right back up, and powered the fridge, the radio, the TV, almost every light in the camper, the AC, and a Ceramic heater while still providing at least 115 to the outlets. Go fig... I may make my own momentary switch to supply power to the fuel pump to as a manual primer.

... Whatever.

Now to figure out my furnace issue.

Posted By: skimask on 10/04/10 12:48pm

eyeteeth wrote:

I may make my own momentary switch to supply power to the fuel pump to as a manual primer.

That's what I'd do. Nothing like a backup to the backup to the redundant set of backup options...to back you up.

In Soviet Russia, pump supply powers to you!!! (Russian Reversal...wiki...funny stuff...)

Posted By: eyeteeth on 10/04/10 01:51pm

Well... looks like I might need a new control board for my surburban furnace. I've jumpered everything I can find to jumper. Nothing has changed... no clicky...

Bummer, just when I thought I might get out of this cheap.

Posted By: skimask on 10/04/10 02:06pm

How about the gap at the electrodes? 1/8"? Do they make sparky?

Posted By: oldtrucker63 on 10/04/10 02:55pm

Be sure to check your Thermostat wire, Make sure its not broken and has good contact inside the heater and inside the Thermostat, This will make it seem like its just dead.

Without Trucks,....America Stop's

Posted By: eyeteeth on 10/04/10 03:53pm

I'm still pretty sure it's the control board. The fan comes on fine, the sail switch tested fine, the limit switch is fine, and the power for the control board is 'hot'. But the igniter never clicks, and my test light never goes off when on the back of the igniter.

Posted By: Trish Davis on 10/05/10 06:24am

Leeann wrote:

ALnCORY wrote:

Imagining Trish's reaction when the 2nd unit director weasel tells her they need her to drive her Travco down the railroad tracks with a smiley face painted on it..... will it take him long to heal?

Years

Yes, Trish, I must have pictures [emoticon]

Murray's got some pics. You'll get them when I do.
Sorta deja Travco.
His is a 210 w/ the "blue bits" in the front, sort of unnerving looking at in my rr-view mirror.

2d unit-guy will recover. I only growled at him.

Posted By: eyeteeth on 10/05/10 12:51pm

Replaced board, furnace made all sorts of nice sounds. I reassembled the whole thing, and put it back in the camper only to panic for a couple of minutes until I remembered to turn the LP back on.

We have on board heat again.

I'm now off to install a remote start for the genset. Then I can put the whole sofa area back together and clean the RV up again for the weekend.

Oh... I'm also going to run a pipe auger up the exhaust tube for the gas burner on the fridge. I think it's clogged. THEN it will be ready (to put away for teh winter?) for a boondocking trip or two.

Posted By: goreds2 on 10/05/10 09:03pm

eyeteeth wrote:

Nice job!

See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds

Posted By: rvrdrunner on 10/14/10 06:39am

Good morning all! I have read every page of this thread, yes all 479 of them, and gleaned so much great information from it. What a wealth of experience is here.

I bought my 78 Overland Class C, on the "F40" chassis a couple weeks ago, for $500, from the second owner. I knew it needed coachwork, but the Dodge portion is in fantastic, relatively unmolested, shape, with 48K on the 440. It came with all the manuals, including the factory diagrams for the battery isolator, and even the delivery and inspection docs.

The black and gray tanks are new, only wet for testing. It has a rebuilt trans, 3 years ago, less then 1000 miles on it. The PO had been chasing an overheat issue, he replaced everything, four core, Edelbrock pump, new oil and trans coolers, and an aux. electric fan. The problem turned out to be a shot fan clutch, which I replaced w/ a 7 blade fixed model. Overheating issue solved.

Now getting into the coach, I have the interior stripped out, except for the paneling. The worst damage is in the rear corners, so I have the skin off the entire back.

In doing so, I found this to be of strange construction, 3/8 panels on the inside, minimal framing(and I do mean minimal)surrounded by styrofoam, and 1/4 panel on the outside, then the skin. The whole thing seems to have been factory glued together.

Both corners, and some adjacent framing, are completely rotted, and with this construction, it seems a challenge to make an effective repair. The best I can come up with is to dig out the rot that I can reach, treat the remaining wood, and epoxy in some replacement wood.

Then I think I'll wrap the corners with some galv. metal, srewed thru and into the interior paneling, maybe even into a reinforcement block in the inside corners. There are cabinets there, to hide any ugliness.

And yes, I know from my long read, pictures are of great import here, and I'm a newbie with forums, photbucket, and the computer world in general, so I hope my pics post.

Any advice on repairing this sort of construcyion greatly appreciated, though I didn't see a single other Overland Class C mentioned in this thread, at least.

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