Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
For those who might want to know what's planned for MLP -- Thorley Tri-Y headers, dual exhaust with X- or H- crossover, and Flowmaster mufflers. Small tubes to the crossover or mufflers and big tubes after that.
Flowmasters will work if you exhaust them behind the rear wheels. On mine the Flowmaster and the 3" exhaust is in front of the left duals... Makes for a noisy ride with the drivers window open, but it does "drown out" the noise under the doghouse. For those who might want to know what's planned for MLP -- Thorley Tri-Y headers, dual exhaust with X- or H- crossover, and Flowmaster mufflers. Small tubes to the crossover or mufflers and big tubes after that.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/rolleyes.gif "rolleyes")
Ken
1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures
USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.
Just too much noise. It was tiring, really.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Jer&Ger wrote:
I've have always been a penzoil man too, but this time I put Vavoline Duro-blend 20-50w synthetic blend. I think I'll going with a pure synthetic next time though...Jerry
I've have always been a penzoil man too, but this time I put Vavoline Duro-blend 20-50w synthetic blend. I think I'll going with a pure synthetic next time though...Jerry
Just an FYI to anyone considering using synthetics...
They're great. Unless you have just rebuilt your engine, DO NOT USE SYNTHETICS.
YOu'll eventually spring oil leaks, especially the valve seals, which result in oil consumption, fouled plugs, and smoking when you first start it.
Every known synthetic will cause trouble with the "old" seals, gaskets, and rubber parts.
It's safe and infact, a pretty good thing to do, if you used modern parts and just went through the engine.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Mopars forever... Not German, Japanese, Chinese...American Mopars!
The price of freedom is higher than the price of slavery, but it's still a bargain!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Malcolm
Spectramac wrote:
Is it just me or did you say 2 different things there??
Is it just me or did you say 2 different things there??
It's just you
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
He says 2 things:
1- Do not use synthetics in an older engine with older seals, etc.
(the problem is, the synthetics will clean the gunk off the older seals, exposing the leaks)
2- Do use synthetics if you have recently rebuilt your engine and have new seals, etc. installed.
Spectramac wrote:
Is it just me or did you say 2 different things there??
Is it just me or did you say 2 different things there??
Why, yes I did. I'm gratified you're sophisticated enough to notice
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
1. Synthetic oils are awesome.
2. Using them in old Mopars, without rebuilding the engine will result in headaches you don't want to deal with. Most synthetics will cause the old seals, which have lived in dino oil for years, to either shrink or swell. In the rare "swell" cases, the seals just plain fall apart and it's c atastrophic failure.
In much of the rest of effects, the seals shrink slightly, become extremely brittle and break.
(i have been through more than one episode of this in my own rigs over the years, call me 'experienced'.)
), and there were no oil leaks beyond the typical valve cover gaskets, etc...I also bought my Explorer with 80,000 miles and have been using synthetics in it since I bought it. At 123,000 now and no problems or leaks.
Happy Holidays all!!!!!!!!!!!!
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
Hi,
I am trying to keep my class C 20' Dodge Sportsman "Travette" 360 engine Rv away from the crusher. Engine main seal leak got worse; from an occasional drip to a small stream. Also uses quite a bit of oil ( even before the leak was going through a quart every 200 miles !) It has 135-140 compression all around and no excessive smoke. With that half decent compression I am guessing the valve guides are gone
So I am considering rebuilding the engine, maybe replacing with a "crate" engine. Q. How do you remove the darn thing ! I have spoken to two shops ... one says they will remove the heads, oil pan, etc. and finally walk the block out the passenger door ! Basically remove and reinstall it in pieces . Another shop says you can remove the grill and some front end cross members and take it out the front !?
I have yet to take a close look ... but I think the bottom of the front grill cross member is spot welded. Any one know what the standard, recommended way to do yank the old mill out is !?
Thanks in Advance
* This post was edited 12/20/08 05:22pm by steve93101 *
steve93101 wrote:
Engine Removal Anyone !>
Hi,
I am trying to keep my class C 20' Dodge Sportsman "Travette" Rv away from the crusher. Engine main seal leak got worse; from an occasional drip to a small stream. Also uses quite a bit of oil ( even before the leak was going through a quart every 200 miles !) It has 135-140 compression all around and no excessive smoke. With that half decent compression I am guessing the valve guides are gone
So I am considering rebuilding the engine, maybe replacing with a "crate" engine. Q. How do you remove the darn thing ! I have spoken to two shops ... one says they will remove the heads, oil pan, etc. and finally walk the block out the passenger door ! Basically remove and reinstall it in pieces . Another shop says you can remove the grill and some front end cross members and take it out the front !?
I have yet to take a close look ... but I think the bottom of the front grill cross member is spot welded. Any one know what the standard, recommended way to do yank the old mill out is !?
Thanks in Advance
Engine Removal Anyone !>
Hi,
I am trying to keep my class C 20' Dodge Sportsman "Travette" Rv away from the crusher. Engine main seal leak got worse; from an occasional drip to a small stream. Also uses quite a bit of oil ( even before the leak was going through a quart every 200 miles !) It has 135-140 compression all around and no excessive smoke. With that half decent compression I am guessing the valve guides are gone
So I am considering rebuilding the engine, maybe replacing with a "crate" engine. Q. How do you remove the darn thing ! I have spoken to two shops ... one says they will remove the heads, oil pan, etc. and finally walk the block out the passenger door ! Basically remove and reinstall it in pieces . Another shop says you can remove the grill and some front end cross members and take it out the front !?
I have yet to take a close look ... but I think the bottom of the front grill cross member is spot welded. Any one know what the standard, recommended way to do yank the old mill out is !?
Thanks in Advance
135-140 psi is good compression, especially if all cylinders are close to each other. (10% or less difference between highest and lowest reading.)
Not valve guides ... valve stem seals. The valve stem seals are notorious for wearing out on older Mopar engines. (They are usually the first things to cause oil consumption.) The good news is they can be replaced without removing a lot of stuff ... you can even do it without removing the heads.
It's also possible to replace the main seals without removing the engine, which is what I'd recommend in your case.
Both shops are right. The most common approach is to strip the engine down to the short block and hoist it out through the passenger door. This is the approach I've always used because you don't have to dismantle any of the body. On the downside, you run the risk of damaging the cab carpet or upholstery due to wayward fluids.
Taking it out through the front may be possible but, at a minimum, you'll have to remove the hood, grill, and radiator. You may also have to remove the front bumper and crossmember.
A third option is to remove the front axle and drop the engine down through the frame and out the bottom.
You're lucky (??) because you have a Class C. On many Class A's, the coach is built such that dropping the engine out the bottom is the only option.
Like I said, you should consider just replacing the valve stem seals and main seals, without removing the engine. You probably should also replace the seal on the timing chain cover, in which case I'd replace the timing chain and gears while I was at it.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
